Performance chip for passo

Discuss the new Gran Passo model

Performance chip for passo

Postby Painter » 28 Mar 2017 17:04

Just ridden the granpasso for sale recently on eBay home for a friend who has just bought it.
Fantastic bike, much better than mine makes me realise what a remap and set can do, so it's off to bsd for a remap and Dyno set up.
Has anyone upgraded the rear wheel rim size to the wider one H83,
Cheers Steve
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Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby Delhispearman » 13 Apr 2017 07:46

Lordy, my GP is already a much better bike than I am a rider - the last thing I need is a re-map!

But perhaps that's because I have been bought up on a diet of Guzzi tractors all me life...

Not done any rim changes however, I have just bolted on a Hepco Becker rear rack and can thoroughly recommend that as a really worthwhile mod. Simple to fit and robust.
Also you do not need to have the "hoop" fitted all the time - it is only necessary when using the Silver H&B Rimowa or other H&B cases.

650749rearrack.jpg
650749rearrack.jpg (86.14 KiB) Viewed 1000 times
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Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby Red S » 12 Aug 2017 09:37

I'm off to BSD in a couple of months. They sound promising. I also have the 180 section rear wheel. The bike is very nimble and easy to turn in and really stable when leant over, but I've never had the 150, so can't compare.
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Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby oilburnerbike » 28 Aug 2017 08:47

Hi,
Just been to BSD to get my GP remapped. Not cheap but I can actually ride the damn thing now.
They have a facebook page, I have posted comments on there.
If you don't do facebook.........

When I got my GP last Nov it had 2 previous owners. The first appeared to use it in all weathers, the second made inroads to bringing back to an acceptable standard, but nowhere near far enough.
So I inherited a bike that was cosmetically challenged and frankly ran like the proverbial bag of sh*te to the point that I didn't want to swing my leg over it, preferring to ride one of my other bikes, any one it didn't matter they were all better than the GP!
Cold running. Almost impossible to ride.
Once over 75C on the temp gauge it would run better but was unpredictable, jerky, flat.....just horrible, especially below 4000rpm.
Pulling off from a standstill the bike would feel like it was bogging down just off idle. Open the throttle a bit, feed in some clutch, bit more throttle and......nothing, just didn't want to pick up.
When I bought it there was an overlay fast bike mapping system fitted. Took it off. No difference. Replaced the GPR can with the standard can, no difference.
Airfilter good. Plugs good. Valve clearances good. All connections in the loom checked and cleaned. no difference.

So off to BSD I went last Friday.

Friendly bunch. Loads of tea, very welcome after a 6 oclock start from home in mist and fog!

Step 1. Download the standard map.

Step 2. Remove the lambda probe (not easy, previous owner had been at it!) and throw it in the bin. BSD do a plug to blank off the resultant hole.

Step 3. Install BSD lambda probe to measure the mixture on the dyno.

Step 4. Take a run with the standard mapping. Oh dear. VERY weak, for emissions purposes no doubt.

Step 5. Adjust the mapping. This took about 40 mins of trial and error until Mark (extremely knowledgeable guy on ALL types of bikes, manufacturers etc) was happy to test ride.

Step 6. Test ride.

Step 7. Back in the cell for a tweak.

Step 8. My turn to road test.

Step 9. Another tweak. Due to different riding styles required to stop intermittent close throttle stalling.

Step 10. Another road test.

Step 11. Another tweak to smooth the just off idle performance.

Step 12. Another road test.

Step 13. There isn't one. Bike runs perfect.

The result, just over 116bhp at the back wheel and over 70 footpounds of torque from just under 4000rpm.

These are just figures. On the road the bike is transformed. From around 3500rpm a wisp of throttle will see you heading for the horizon at speed. It will pull happily down to 2000rpm in top and pull cleanly, obviously taking care with the throttle as you wouldn't normally ride like that! The engine is smoother. Pull off is normal. Once I stop playing with my new found performance I'll check the fuel consumption. Before it was around 40mpg, mainly because I used to have to keep to at least 4000rpm as the low speed running was diabolical.

If you bike runs like this out of the crate, lucky you!

Not cheap, but very good.
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Location: North Wiltshire

Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby oilburnerbike » 28 Aug 2017 08:47

Hi,
Just been to BSD to get my GP remapped. Not cheap but I can actually ride the damn thing now.
They have a facebook page, I have posted comments on there.
If you don't do facebook.........

When I got my GP last Nov it had 2 previous owners. The first appeared to use it in all weathers, the second made inroads to bringing back to an acceptable standard, but nowhere near far enough.
So I inherited a bike that was cosmetically challenged and frankly ran like the proverbial bag of sh*te to the point that I didn't want to swing my leg over it, preferring to ride one of my other bikes, any one it didn't matter they were all better than the GP!
Cold running. Almost impossible to ride.
Once over 75C on the temp gauge it would run better but was unpredictable, jerky, flat.....just horrible, especially below 4000rpm.
Pulling off from a standstill the bike would feel like it was bogging down just off idle. Open the throttle a bit, feed in some clutch, bit more throttle and......nothing, just didn't want to pick up.
When I bought it there was an overlay fast bike mapping system fitted. Took it off. No difference. Replaced the GPR can with the standard can, no difference.
Airfilter good. Plugs good. Valve clearances good. All connections in the loom checked and cleaned. no difference.

So off to BSD I went last Friday.

Friendly bunch. Loads of tea, very welcome after a 6 oclock start from home in mist and fog!

Step 1. Download the standard map.

Step 2. Remove the lambda probe (not easy, previous owner had been at it!) and throw it in the bin. BSD do a plug to blank off the resultant hole.

Step 3. Install BSD lambda probe to measure the mixture on the dyno.

Step 4. Take a run with the standard mapping. Oh dear. VERY weak, for emissions purposes no doubt.

Step 5. Adjust the mapping. This took about 40 mins of trial and error until Mark (extremely knowledgeable guy on ALL types of bikes, manufacturers etc) was happy to test ride.

Step 6. Test ride.

Step 7. Back in the cell for a tweak.

Step 8. My turn to road test.

Step 9. Another tweak. Due to different riding styles required to stop intermittent close throttle stalling.

Step 10. Another road test.

Step 11. Another tweak to smooth the just off idle performance.

Step 12. Another road test.

Step 13. There isn't one. Bike runs perfect.

The result, just over 116bhp at the back wheel and over 70 footpounds of torque from just under 4000rpm.

These are just figures. On the road the bike is transformed. From around 3500rpm a wisp of throttle will see you heading for the horizon at speed. It will pull happily down to 2000rpm in top and pull cleanly, obviously taking care with the throttle as you wouldn't normally ride like that! The engine is smoother. Pull off is normal. Once I stop playing with my new found performance I'll check the fuel consumption. Before it was around 40mpg, mainly because I used to have to keep to at least 4000rpm as the low speed running was diabolical.

If you bike runs like this out of the crate, lucky you!

Not cheap, but very good.
oilburnerbike
 
Posts: 9
Joined: 05 Feb 2017 21:04
Location: North Wiltshire

Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby Red S » 03 Sep 2017 22:32

You've had similar problems to me. A Power Commander 111 has really helped but it's still not perfect. Fingers crossed I come away as happy as you next month. They seem to have done quite a few Morinis......
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Location: Surrey

Re: Performance chip for passo

Postby toggy » 12 Sep 2017 19:48

Just to add , back in the day at 3x when they were still supporting MM , my 2008 GP had a factory updated ECU fitted , I think they were identified by letters ,A = OEM from factory ,B = updated ECU . there might b a C ECU ,can't be sure . Anyway to the point ,there bike ran worse with the updated B ECU. ,the tick over especially was all over the place .so I had 3x reinstall the original ECU ,much better.
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