The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Discuss the new Corsaro and Avio 1200s

The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby X1er » 13 Dec 2015 13:39

Hello All

All good with the Corsaro (at the moment) except for one minor annoyance.

The actual rubber of the dash rubber button has deteriorated.

I see that it’s common for it to be stuck in. Mine was stuck in when I got it (2nd owner). Previous owner left the bike unridden in an underground carpark for 2 years, but the front end of the bike was constantly actually exposed to the sun during this time.

As a result of this the dash plastic is faded, the screens are not as clear as they should be and there’s a very small crack on the top left of the digital display but it still works just fine so I don’t want to replace it. I’ve seen the odd dash being sold on eBay etc for 500 GBP which is about a Zillion Australian dollars.

The rubber button has always been stuck in since I’ve had it so the functions of multi read out electronic dash have never been used more than once when I managed to run through them all.

More importantly the rubber after being exposed to the sun has deteriorated and I’m not confident it’s still waterproof so I’d like to do something about it.

I’m assuming that you can’t buy just the replacement button or button cover.

So my questions are:

Has anyone ever had to replace the rubber button cover?

Can this be done by pulling apart the dash?

Has anyone ever pulled apart the dash? And if you have:

- is the rubber button cover part of the micro switch and pressed up against the dash casing, or
- is it a rubber grommet type set up so a replacement (if one can be found) can be pushed into place from the outside without pulling the dash apart.

The obvious but not so nice back up plan is just to cover it up in some kind of sealant and pretend that I don’t have a multi function dash.

Cheers
X1er
 
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby MickeyMoto » 13 Dec 2015 16:18

Hi,

Easy to split, it is held by 'friction'. Well, mine is. My dash did the same and removing and splitting it fixed it. Recently had the microswitch replaced as it was broken.

Not sure, but try emailling the factory as I think the dash does not cost 500 notes new....

One question, what is this thing you say it was left out in? The sun? Nope, never heard of it.

Mike.
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby 3potjohn » 14 Dec 2015 07:04

Agree-very gloomy yesterday-especially in the Tottenham regions.
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby MonstroMorini » 16 Dec 2015 16:53

MickeyMoto wrote:Hi,

Easy to split, it is held by 'friction'. Well, mine is. My dash did the same and removing and splitting it fixed it. Recently had the microswitch replaced as it was broken.

Not sure, but try emailling the factory as I think the dash does not cost 500 notes new....

One question, what is this thing you say it was left out in? The sun? Nope, never heard of it.

Mike.


friction and silicone in my case.... here are some pics:
Image

Image

I added a seperate wire for a remote button to control the dash
Image

Image
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby rod100 » 17 Dec 2015 09:44

Greetings Mike - nice to see someone has split the blessed thing. Where did you go for a new microswitch? What fixing did you use to place the remote switch? I was looking into this some time ago but other things got in the way.
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby rod100 » 17 Dec 2015 09:49

Apologies Mike - just seen your earlier post regarding replacing microswitch. Cheers.
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby MonstroMorini » 17 Dec 2015 10:23

Placed so-called anti-terror (waterproof) switch on the left side of ignition cover

Image

I have two buttons since i also have another dash mounted - in case the speed sensor fails (again)
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby Andy R » 03 Apr 2016 16:58

Bump.
Hi, yup, my button has also ceased to function....
How easy to separate? Is brute force required?
The circuit board mounted button; any suggested source? RS part number anyone?
Reassembly; do I see glue involved?

Any help would be appreciated....
A man of many parts, none of which are fully functional
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby MonstroMorini » 05 Apr 2016 06:27

No force, gently pry open with a blunt screwdriver or better a plastic thingy used for car-dashboards. Be patient, no force, otherwise the screwdriver will dent the dashboard.
Once open you can easily remove the microswitch and any eletronics store should have a replacement, it is a standard component.

I used a black waterproof silicone sealant used on boats but any reasonable waterproof sealant suited for plastics will do. The black sealant covers some small dents that were inevitable while opening.....
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby X1er » 12 Apr 2016 07:45

Update

A closer inspection of my dashboard cover revealed that the screen was starting to crack in a few places. So I went from needing just the rubber button to the entire case.

I ended up emailing the very helpful MAE factory in Italy. They were fantastic.

They were able to send me an entire new dashboard case front and back complete with rubber button and instructions for how to open and close/seal the new case with some silicone that is suited to plastics.

They couldn’t supply any internals for the speedo/dash.

I am planning to open up my dashboard up over the next month or so (the middle of winter here) when the bike’s registration runs out. However once I open it up I am expecting to see that the micro switch button will need replacing so I’ll be off to find a local solution for that and then I’ll reseal the internals in the new dashboard casings.

At the same time I’ll order a new crankcase breather plug (the one that joins the front cylinder to the airbox) as mine has leaked now for the second time. The first time I fixed it with the some gasket goo as it was right in the middle of the best riding time of the year.
X1er
 
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby mikebbikes » 01 Dec 2017 20:11

I thought I might add to an old thread, and add my tuppence worth.
The menu button on mine was not working, and after looking at another clock, I thought that the rubber pip was missing.
After reading this, and other threads on the subject, I noticed that the button on the PCB is a Tact Switch, which is quite common on a lot of Pro Audio equipment.
It also looked surface mount, so the legs do not go through the PCB, so with a bit of care, it should be easy to swap out.
After removing the clocks from the bike I set about separating the two half's of the cover .
Previous threads had said it is held under friction, and some silicon. I used a flat bladed sheaf knife to gently try and spread the two half's apart. I figured that the wider the surface spreading the force, the more even it would pry apart. I found that a lot more force was needed that I thought it would, and I was worried that the PCB but bend to far in the bottom half, breaking it, or the LCD. Being 'gentle was getting nowhere ( I think there was more silicon in it than normal, as there was overspill inside the case) so a more firm and robust approach was taken.
Eventually after going around the gap for about 10 mins prying a section at a time, one side opened out enough to pry the top off.
The gap and the outer casing around the gap was more marked than I would have liked, but it should clean up OK.
When I looked inside the top case, I found that the rubber pip was intact, and had somehow bee pushed into the case. After removing it, and pulling it back into shape, it looked in one piece.
The fun was trying to get it back into the hole. Try as I might, it did not want to go back in when I was pushing it in from the top.
Eventually, and soaked in silicon spray, I managed to get it back into the case by pushing it from the inside.
Next step was to look at the Tact switch itself. In normal operation when you operate it, you can hear and feel a distinctive click. When they fail, you cant hear of feel anything. Mine was clicking, but was mostly doing nothing, sometimes it worked, but mostly it would not.
What I did notice was some rust on the top of the switch. I figured that this was either moisture getting to it because the rubber pip was dislodged, or the pip had a hole in it, and moisture was running through it, down the length if the plastic body, and onto the metal top.
As the switch sounded like it should work, I decided to try to clean it with a proper electrical cleaning fluid.
The industry standard for this is a product called 'Servisol Super 10' it acts as a cleaner and a lubricant. You can buy it on line, or in places like Maplin
I have used it for years on my bike, handle bar switches connectors ETC, its much better and safer than WD40.
After its initial clean, it was still the same, so I gave it another tiny squirt, and left it over night.
Next day after trying it, it was a little better, but still a bit hit and miss, so plan B came into play, change the switch.

The most important thing when doing this is using the correct tools. Soldering Iron. I use Antex models, and for this job, a small 15watt one. This has two quality's, it has a fine tip, and is not to hot that it will wreck the PCB.
They next is a set if fine side cutters. Rather than trying to de solder the old switch, it is easier to cut of the four legs of the switch.
Before you get to that, you need to separate the PCB from the bottom case. It is held in with three small self taper screws that can be seen on the LCD side of the PCB. Once they are out, the PCB will lift from the case. Mine did not want to come out, as a blob of silicon had attached itself by the Tacho side. I carefully cut and removed it with a scalpel, and fine nosed tweezers.
With the PCB out and on a clean surface, the sequence was,
Cut the four legs of the old switch and remove
With the tip of the soldering iron, heat up the top of the PCB where the four legs are one at a time,
Apply a solder sucker to each leg, and remove the excess solder and the cut part of the leg.
Tin with solder, the four solder points on the PCB
Tin the legs of the new switch with solder
Position the new switch on the PCB
Apply the soldering iron to one leg and let it set.
After one leg has set, position the switch so the other three legs are over the solder points on the PCB
Apply the soldering iron to the other three legs.
If necessary, apply more solder to each leg.
Put the PCB back in the bottom case, refit the three self tappers, and plug the loom back into the clocks and test.

Mine works fine, and I have all the functions as laid out in the hand book.
Tomorrow I am going to seal the two outer half back together.
I have take some photos of the above, I will post them when the clocks are sealed and back on the bike.

I have to say that for me, the hardest part was separating the covers, and is not something I would want to do on someone else clocks. There were times when I thought to myself, if you break these, what are you going to do? It s not like a run of the mill Jap bike where you can get another set anywhere.
If anyone wants a tact switch, let me know and I will send you one.
mikebbikes
 
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Re: The rubber on the dash button has deteriorated

Postby backfat1187 » 02 Dec 2017 14:46

I'm hoping to have a go at this sometime over the winter. I think I might add a remote button too.
Great post. Very helpful. Many thanks.
Jim.
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