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Hi all,

About the embark on changing the cam chains on a 2008 Veloce (47,800 km) and was wondering what, if any, special tools are required?

From memory...
buzzetti m38x1.5 flywheel puller
small gear pullers (if you're replacing the cam shaft sprockets)
flywheel holding tool
torque wrench that'll go down to 5nm
torque wrench that'll go up to 180nm
I took off the clutch and primary gear as it made it easier to remove the water pump drive to get to the cam chain drive sprocket behind. This needed a clutch holding tool. Also a 200nm torque wrench to replace the primary gear which has a left hand thread.
I needed a small internal bearing puller (I think 8mm ID) to get one of the four bushes out of the 'stiffener bracket' although yours may all come out by hand.
I did it with the motor in the frame so it was a little bit awkward getting a torque wrench with a socket over the bolts that hold down the cam shafts on the rear cylinder head. Not much clearance to the rear under tray. An open end wrench made it easier.
John (Torque) may be able to add to this. He was a big help when I did mine.
Hope this helps.

Jim.

Thanks for the info.

AusVeloce wrote:Hi all,

About the embark on changing the cam chains on a 2008 Veloce (47,800 km) and was wondering what, if any, special tools are required?

Where did you source the parts for this swap please... Have you got the upgraded chains/sprockets?
Thanks

As we don't have any agents in Australia I emailed the factory direct and was able to get them to supply 2 x R1613050 kits which I understand are the latest upgrade. Total cost was 520 euro (A$850) including postage.

Old thread now but I would value your experience…

My 2008 Corsaro has just had the new type camchains fitted. Only 10k miles on the bike and nothing wrong with the old ones but I decided to do them as the upgraded parts were available and seemed like a sensible change to make. I doubt I’ll do enough miles to need to change them again.

Engine feels great but it sounds different at 1500-3000rpm at very light load. Kind of a scuffing noise. The noise is present at all temperatures. Done about 100 miles now and no change.

Starts great, idles fine and makes no noise at idle or when under load.

Just wondered if the new chain guides are noisier. There is no noise or ‘cam chain rattle’ as you wind the load on or anything and the engine is as smooth and punchy as ever. Just a very annoying and worrying noise when gently wafting along. It’s most noticeable when just very lightly on the throttle at a constant speed, and can be heard even when cruising at 60mph.

I don’t recall any change in engine noise. I do tend to be a bit of paranoid when I’ve done engine work so I did ride without earplugs for a while, listening out for anything suspicious but there was no discernible difference. Mark at BSD didn’t mention anything when it went for a remap. He’s pretty thorough in my experience.
I might be revealing a lack of understanding of 4 strokes, but does the load on the valve drive train vary (other than at different revs)? In other words, does the change/lack of noise when the engine is more loaded point towards something somewhere between the crank and the rear wheel?
I’m quite happy to accept that I’m talking b*****ks. It was just a thought.