winter stripdown

[dunk 1]

thanks - drilled them out when I got home this evening.

Next question - no where near up to this yet but thinking ahead will I have to remove the swing arm bushes if I am getting it powder coated? - thanks - Duncan

[Mepstein]

I’m powder coating mine shortly. I’m doing it at our shop so I’ll plug and block off all the areas that shouldn’t get powder. Talk to your coating shop. They usually have different sizes of silicone plugs and high temp tape for areas that shouldn’t get coated. You want then to plug off the threaded areas and parts of the frame that shouldn’t have a buildup of material.

I wouldn’t wait until everything is apart to send off parts. Painters are notorious for taking longer than promised so get the tank and side panels to your guy asap.

[mbmm350s]

Hi Duncan,

I find the more prep I do the better the job will be.
For example the painter will like you better if everything is clean and degreased before blasting.

The Swingarm bushes can be left in situ but I would make sure that they are well masked off.
But given that the bushes aren't expensive wouldn't you replace them while you can?
Wheel bearings must be removed though.

As you are dismantling you may well want to replace some of the fasteners, so
keep the old ones to plug threaded holes in frames etc.
[some one else can open the stainless versus BZP debate ]

There are a few areas of the frame that given the age /usage of the machines there can be cracks
and should be carefully inspected just to be sure, hoping of course that all is fine!

1. The upper rear engine mounts
2. Side stand bracket/lower frame rail
3. rear passenger footrest hanger loops

cheers
Mark

[Steve Brown]

thanks - drilled them out when I got home this evening.

Next question - no where near up to this yet but thinking ahead will I have to remove the swing arm bushes if I am getting it powder coated? - thanks - Duncan

It could be worth removing the bushes (try to remember which side they came out of if they are good to use again) I left them in mine and the coater man mentioned that grease often sweats out of the bushes and the tube they sit in. If this happens it stains the new coating.

[MarkB]

Adding to what Mark said about areas prone to cracking, also check the rear upper frame where it cantilevers back from the top shock absorber mounts. My '75 Strada had developed stress fractures on both sides there.

[dunk 1]

With a few clear days finally got the strip down finished, even the centre stand came off without a fight. Just a couple more bits to do so
1. How are the centre stand rubbers attached to the frame? do they just lever off?
2. What's the best way to remove the head bearing cups from the frame?
3. Where do I get the washers with the internal rubber bit that seal the bolt at the bottom of the fork?

thanks - Duncan

[George 350]

Hi Dunc,

1. How are the centre stand rubbers attached to the frame? I seem to remember that they are riveted on from the underside. The peened over bit on the top was taken off with a chisel and a pin punch used to knock the rivet out. Refitting was with a nut and domed screw as per the mudguards.
2. What's the best way to remove the head bearing cups from the frame? I use a piece of aluminium 1/2" bar as a drift, and together with a big hammer simply knock them out. Remember to move the drift around do that the cone comes out 'square'.
3. Where do I get the washers with the internal rubber bit that seal the bolt at the bottom of the fork? Search for 'dowty washers'. On ebay they are around £2 a pair delivered. Watch the outside diameter and thickness though as they sit in a machined 'pocket', and there isn't
a lot of clearance between bolt head and spindle on the pinch bolt side.

Hope this helps, George.