Have you checked the spring cups for stretch?
You can always replace the thin friction plate with a thick one. There do seem to be different widths of clutch hub, the wider would better accommodate all thick plates.
Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Ah, never thought of that. Didn't notice any marking from contacting the hub but I can compare them with the 375 ones. One of the old thick friction plates isn't as bad as the rest so that might do the trick if necessary.EVguru wrote:Have you checked the spring cups for stretch?
You can always replace the thin friction plate with a thick one. There do seem to be different widths of clutch hub, the wider would better accommodate all thick plates.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
What a difference a washer/shim makes!
Checked the spring cups. Looked a bit stressed at the base but when measured seemed much the same as those from the 375 (34.50 mm).
So I put the cups and (been in for a long time) springs from the 375 in to the project clutch, including the 'assist shims'. These are a smidgeon over 18mm ID and 24mm OD and about 1.5mm thick. Also used the hex head spring nuts so not strictly changing just one variable. Anyway, gripping like the proverbial sticky substance to a piece of bed clothing, even without doing anything to the plate stack. Started first kick and a creep test suggests that it has also addressed improved the smooth take up. A test ride when it's not quite so cold and gloomy will be interesting.
The first start kick was with the jury rigged 'racer' 2:1. A very mellifluous note and probably not loud enough to frighten an MoT tester let alone an ACU noise meter operator. Not useable as it is though so I put the NLM system back on. My front head exhaust port problem is at least in part due to a not brilliant thread. I realised that I'd had a similar issue on the rear head of the 375 and that the nut went in much deeper on that by using different half rings. So being a clever old gimmer I used those on the front of this engine and managed to get the nut much snugger and to my liking. Being a belt and bracers type when it comes to race engines I used evguru's clamp round the nut approach *and* lock wire to a hole in the top fin. Neat it ain't, but the blighter will have a job coming out when it shouldn't now! These half nuts are a bit weird and I'm not even sure they are Morini items. They may have come with this old 350 engine but I can't (well haven't looked for) the other pair. Phoned Rob about getting more but he didn't recognise the description so I will email a photo when they see the light of day again at engine swap back time.
It probably only needs a few dozen more miles including some wide open bursts (achievable now I suspect without much more carb fiddling) to be run in well enough to get it swapped back in to the project bike so that I can sort out the exhaust and carry on rigging up a solo seat to go with the 125H tank. The secret weapon is a Corsaro seat the came with mine when I bought it (bike now sold - anyone want a Palmer adjustable screen for one?). No idea why, perhaps even less padded to reduce seat height? I tried it once and decided it that if it was, it didn't make enough difference to bother with. A nice shade of red though and I reckon I can fabricate mountings for it to go on the 2C frame. If anybody asks, I can point to the Moto Morini mark and hope they don't know about the 1200s or notice any year of moulding
They did have plastic in the 1980's!
Checked the spring cups. Looked a bit stressed at the base but when measured seemed much the same as those from the 375 (34.50 mm).
So I put the cups and (been in for a long time) springs from the 375 in to the project clutch, including the 'assist shims'. These are a smidgeon over 18mm ID and 24mm OD and about 1.5mm thick. Also used the hex head spring nuts so not strictly changing just one variable. Anyway, gripping like the proverbial sticky substance to a piece of bed clothing, even without doing anything to the plate stack. Started first kick and a creep test suggests that it has also addressed improved the smooth take up. A test ride when it's not quite so cold and gloomy will be interesting.
The first start kick was with the jury rigged 'racer' 2:1. A very mellifluous note and probably not loud enough to frighten an MoT tester let alone an ACU noise meter operator. Not useable as it is though so I put the NLM system back on. My front head exhaust port problem is at least in part due to a not brilliant thread. I realised that I'd had a similar issue on the rear head of the 375 and that the nut went in much deeper on that by using different half rings. So being a clever old gimmer I used those on the front of this engine and managed to get the nut much snugger and to my liking. Being a belt and bracers type when it comes to race engines I used evguru's clamp round the nut approach *and* lock wire to a hole in the top fin. Neat it ain't, but the blighter will have a job coming out when it shouldn't now! These half nuts are a bit weird and I'm not even sure they are Morini items. They may have come with this old 350 engine but I can't (well haven't looked for) the other pair. Phoned Rob about getting more but he didn't recognise the description so I will email a photo when they see the light of day again at engine swap back time.
It probably only needs a few dozen more miles including some wide open bursts (achievable now I suspect without much more carb fiddling) to be run in well enough to get it swapped back in to the project bike so that I can sort out the exhaust and carry on rigging up a solo seat to go with the 125H tank. The secret weapon is a Corsaro seat the came with mine when I bought it (bike now sold - anyone want a Palmer adjustable screen for one?). No idea why, perhaps even less padded to reduce seat height? I tried it once and decided it that if it was, it didn't make enough difference to bother with. A nice shade of red though and I reckon I can fabricate mountings for it to go on the 2C frame. If anybody asks, I can point to the Moto Morini mark and hope they don't know about the 1200s or notice any year of moulding
They did have plastic in the 1980's!Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Another pretty successful evaluation run in what might be the most pleasant riding conditions for a while.
The exhaust port nuts did not go AWOL despite the most provocation yet. Although still rather fussy in the mid range it is now quite easy to get it pulling well wide open and singing to the red line. Oops - must remember this is a 250 tacho not a 350 one. It revs so eagerly once over 7000 that I think I am going to have to have one on the finished hill climber. I know they are meant to be safe to over 10000, but on the gearing I will be running at most hills that may be pretty easy to reach even in 5th. Clutch still a teensy bit 'sharp' on take up but miles better than it was and not worth obsessing over any more until I see how well I can launch it off the start lines and my 64ft times.
The 'flat spot' is definitely a function of throttle position, load and rpm. Get it past 7000 and it will take any throttle position you like including wide open. Right at the bottom (throttle and revs) it is very sweet, which will be good for hairpins in the wet. Let it drop in to the 5000 to 6000 region up a hill in a high gear, however, and it needs a lot of coaxing to pull through 'the wall'. Simples , just keep the revs high and the throttle wide by playing tunes on the gearbox. Not ideal for road use but I think I will leave attempts at more fine tuning until this engine is back in the project bike with the exhaust system it will be running and also the ignition set up. If however, I find it doesn't seem to run so well with the OEM transducers (though it did start and run on them before) I will swap over the NLM module and coils and consider acquiring another set, or something really tasty like a Sachs system.
I declare it now run in enough for hill climbs and sprints next season. A series of short sharp shocks is probably a better running in regime for a machine that will not be doing sustained running anyway. Meeting up with a Maserati on the last bit of fast road before home was the clincher which saw it getting the full WFO treatment through the gears (but not in 6th as we ran out of road). Doesn't seem any more mechanically noisy after that and, it may be my imagination, but possibly even a little bit less so (good and hot perhaps taking up 'racing clearances').
So time to get the 2Cs side by side again in the garage for a reverse transplant. I did briefly wonder whether I should give the 375 a strip down over the winter but decided that NLM had already had too much of my pocket money in the last 12 months.
The exhaust port nuts did not go AWOL despite the most provocation yet. Although still rather fussy in the mid range it is now quite easy to get it pulling well wide open and singing to the red line. Oops - must remember this is a 250 tacho not a 350 one. It revs so eagerly once over 7000 that I think I am going to have to have one on the finished hill climber. I know they are meant to be safe to over 10000, but on the gearing I will be running at most hills that may be pretty easy to reach even in 5th. Clutch still a teensy bit 'sharp' on take up but miles better than it was and not worth obsessing over any more until I see how well I can launch it off the start lines and my 64ft times.
The 'flat spot' is definitely a function of throttle position, load and rpm. Get it past 7000 and it will take any throttle position you like including wide open. Right at the bottom (throttle and revs) it is very sweet, which will be good for hairpins in the wet. Let it drop in to the 5000 to 6000 region up a hill in a high gear, however, and it needs a lot of coaxing to pull through 'the wall'. Simples , just keep the revs high and the throttle wide by playing tunes on the gearbox. Not ideal for road use but I think I will leave attempts at more fine tuning until this engine is back in the project bike with the exhaust system it will be running and also the ignition set up. If however, I find it doesn't seem to run so well with the OEM transducers (though it did start and run on them before) I will swap over the NLM module and coils and consider acquiring another set, or something really tasty like a Sachs system.
I declare it now run in enough for hill climbs and sprints next season. A series of short sharp shocks is probably a better running in regime for a machine that will not be doing sustained running anyway. Meeting up with a Maserati on the last bit of fast road before home was the clincher which saw it getting the full WFO treatment through the gears (but not in 6th as we ran out of road). Doesn't seem any more mechanically noisy after that and, it may be my imagination, but possibly even a little bit less so (good and hot perhaps taking up 'racing clearances').
So time to get the 2Cs side by side again in the garage for a reverse transplant. I did briefly wonder whether I should give the 375 a strip down over the winter but decided that NLM had already had too much of my pocket money in the last 12 months.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Brrrr! Definitely no more test rides. Time to get the 'Little Devil' space heater on in the garage and tidy up enough to do the reverse engine swap in comfort. Also another top coat on the 125H tank, in the kitchen, while SWMBO is out.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Rebuilt 350 project engine now back in the project bike. A bit of a struggle getting it out of the road bike but a trolley jack (which I don't usually have to resort to) came to my rescue. Jury-rigged the WeeVee replica 2:1 again and with the new PHBH28s on it started easily. Took a while to warm up as it's a bit chilly but then settled down to a steady idle. Not quite as eager to pick up the revs as when in the other machine (even when trying the same exhaust system last week). Everything is the same except for the ignition system. Same pickup, but triggering the OEM transducers from the Spanish 'barn find' 2C (with the weird extra can thing in the wiring). The HT leads don't look too bad but the caps are old 90 degree bend NGK ones so I'll certainly treat it to new leads and straight caps. Not misfiring, but not quite as crisp and eager as with the NLM ignition module and standard type (the early small CDI type ones they used) HT coils. I may address that later.
The stator ignition winding reads 250 ohms and kicks out a healthy 80 volts AC at idle. The lighting coils are definitely not pushing out anything and show infinite resistance across them (broke winding), so I've just taped up the connections with self amalgamating tape and tucked them out of the way again. I've got a spare stator and rotor from the FE mk1 if the ignition winding also packs up. An offering up of the 125H tank (though I've not finished painting it yet) was done to check on throttle cable routing. I found that just a very slight inward twist of the carbs allowed them to run inside the tank 'void' and it seems to go all right like that with the 2C tank lashed on, so I might just treat the 375 to new cables rather than get specials with carb top elbows made up.
Time to put the custom rear sprocket (significantly more teeth) on to the carrier (now with new bearings - lovely and smooth) - I hope I can find the nuts, bolts and locking tabs!
The stator ignition winding reads 250 ohms and kicks out a healthy 80 volts AC at idle. The lighting coils are definitely not pushing out anything and show infinite resistance across them (broke winding), so I've just taped up the connections with self amalgamating tape and tucked them out of the way again. I've got a spare stator and rotor from the FE mk1 if the ignition winding also packs up. An offering up of the 125H tank (though I've not finished painting it yet) was done to check on throttle cable routing. I found that just a very slight inward twist of the carbs allowed them to run inside the tank 'void' and it seems to go all right like that with the 2C tank lashed on, so I might just treat the 375 to new cables rather than get specials with carb top elbows made up.
Time to put the custom rear sprocket (significantly more teeth) on to the carrier (now with new bearings - lovely and smooth) - I hope I can find the nuts, bolts and locking tabs!
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Spent the morning prodding about with a multimeter with a view to tacho substitute solutions - see other post.
Got the 44T 520 custom alloy rear sprocket on (14T front) , but had to 'relieve' the bottom chain guard to allow it to go fully forward. That way I can go back to standard, or somewhere in between, running the same chain. An even shorter wheelbase and geared for 60 at 8500 rpm should make it lively up the start of Hartland Quay. Must look for a 520 13T front sprocket, then with the alloy 520/38 I also had made I can use four different final drive ratios. Sprocket Unlimited made them, so if anybody else wants a 250 2C or early 6 bolt 350 rear sprocket made they already have the dimensions.
The 125H tank has had its final coat of Hammerite smooth red. Once I've been at it with rubbing compound and polish it will do. One of the tap spigots is a bit crooked but I didn't want to risk trying to bend it straight. It will soon be time for the acid (well petrol) test.
Weevee race replica exhaust fitting/routing in abeyance for now, if all else fails I'll borrow the NLM 2:1 from the 375 but it works well enough to run it up.
Next job is to get the front brake working. It's not totally seized, so I'm hoping just new seals and a braided line will sort it. Hoping I can still get stainless caliper pistons for it (like I put in the 375) if necessary, but the Ebay advert for them seems to have gone.
Definitely a 'racing clearances' sound to it when idling but it revs smoothly enough without a lot of vibration, so fingers crossed.
Got the 44T 520 custom alloy rear sprocket on (14T front) , but had to 'relieve' the bottom chain guard to allow it to go fully forward. That way I can go back to standard, or somewhere in between, running the same chain. An even shorter wheelbase and geared for 60 at 8500 rpm should make it lively up the start of Hartland Quay. Must look for a 520 13T front sprocket, then with the alloy 520/38 I also had made I can use four different final drive ratios. Sprocket Unlimited made them, so if anybody else wants a 250 2C or early 6 bolt 350 rear sprocket made they already have the dimensions.
The 125H tank has had its final coat of Hammerite smooth red. Once I've been at it with rubbing compound and polish it will do. One of the tap spigots is a bit crooked but I didn't want to risk trying to bend it straight. It will soon be time for the acid (well petrol) test.
Weevee race replica exhaust fitting/routing in abeyance for now, if all else fails I'll borrow the NLM 2:1 from the 375 but it works well enough to run it up.
Next job is to get the front brake working. It's not totally seized, so I'm hoping just new seals and a braided line will sort it. Hoping I can still get stainless caliper pistons for it (like I put in the 375) if necessary, but the Ebay advert for them seems to have gone.
Definitely a 'racing clearances' sound to it when idling but it revs smoothly enough without a lot of vibration, so fingers crossed.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Well the 520 chain and sprockets are on. Nearly a comedy moment when I couldn't resist trying it up the drive to see if I could notice the lower gearing. I certainly could but realised the front brake was on the to do list (i.e. absent). Luckily the rear brake works quite well so I came to a locked back wheel stop before hitting the garage door. Feels about right. With the luxury of 6 nicely spaced speeds (the EXC only has 5 and top is very much an overdrive) I can always start in second on the less steep hills if I can't be bothered to gear up.
The front brake must have stood unused for years in the Spanish barn but it had enough semblance of action to pop the one caliper piston out easily (helped by the other one being stuck). My usual compressed air dodge got the other one out quickly. The pistons seem in remarkably good condition. So I've only ordered caliper seals and a 250 M/C piston and seals kit (plus a bellows as that had perished away). The custom Hel braided brake line will depend on the final decision on handlebars. The ones it has on (seemingly standard for late 2Cs - at least in the Spanish market) are almost in to ape-hanger territory and really only suitable for cruising. Adjustable 2C ones would be nice but I imagine there are non to be had. I'll probably go for not too wide 7cm rise by 5cm pull ones in black.
I declare the 125H tank finished. I'm certainly bored with painting it now and want to get on with fitting it. I've even got a pair of badges knocking about. It will get OMG in-line fuel filters like the 375. Not only catching any rust bits that do make themselves known (though it cleaned out very well) but supplying a quick visual check that fuel is flowing OK. Plus generous fuel line length so the tank can be lifted easily without disconnection far enough to quickly allow for needle fine tuning if necessary.
Time to start working out the mounts for the Corsaro seat. A neat QD alloy sheet 'fairing' behind that, to tidy up the back end over the rear frame loop and mudguard might be cool. It could even double as side racing number mountings.
The front brake must have stood unused for years in the Spanish barn but it had enough semblance of action to pop the one caliper piston out easily (helped by the other one being stuck). My usual compressed air dodge got the other one out quickly. The pistons seem in remarkably good condition. So I've only ordered caliper seals and a 250 M/C piston and seals kit (plus a bellows as that had perished away). The custom Hel braided brake line will depend on the final decision on handlebars. The ones it has on (seemingly standard for late 2Cs - at least in the Spanish market) are almost in to ape-hanger territory and really only suitable for cruising. Adjustable 2C ones would be nice but I imagine there are non to be had. I'll probably go for not too wide 7cm rise by 5cm pull ones in black.
I declare the 125H tank finished. I'm certainly bored with painting it now and want to get on with fitting it. I've even got a pair of badges knocking about. It will get OMG in-line fuel filters like the 375. Not only catching any rust bits that do make themselves known (though it cleaned out very well) but supplying a quick visual check that fuel is flowing OK. Plus generous fuel line length so the tank can be lifted easily without disconnection far enough to quickly allow for needle fine tuning if necessary.
Time to start working out the mounts for the Corsaro seat. A neat QD alloy sheet 'fairing' behind that, to tidy up the back end over the rear frame loop and mudguard might be cool. It could even double as side racing number mountings.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
So far, so good.
The 125H tank seems to hold fuel OK! The OMG 2C taps work in opposite ways, so I think signage on the tank will be required to remind the lad and marshals who might think they have turned off the fuel but put the RH one on reserve. The small bore braided fuel line to match the 2C taps can be persuaded on to the 350 size in-line filters OK (350 size from filter to PHBH28s) , but will need careful routing to avoid kinking, as it's new and supple not ancient and virtually rigid like on the 375.
The cunning plan of using a 40mm car U-bolt type exhaust clamp, round the top frame tube, as the basis for a front mount for the Corsaro seat 'hook' to locate on looks as if it will work. It will need a bit of thought about the rear mount. The Corsaro has the pillion seat as a bum stop. Still better and lighter for hill climbs than a standard 2C dual seat though.
Handlebars and custom brake line ordered. The caliper and M/C have cleaned up very well and the new seals and piston have arrived from NLM.
Time to start shopping for a suitable rear tyre. Hmm, looks like it will have to be an Avon this time.
The 125H tank seems to hold fuel OK! The OMG 2C taps work in opposite ways, so I think signage on the tank will be required to remind the lad and marshals who might think they have turned off the fuel but put the RH one on reserve. The small bore braided fuel line to match the 2C taps can be persuaded on to the 350 size in-line filters OK (350 size from filter to PHBH28s) , but will need careful routing to avoid kinking, as it's new and supple not ancient and virtually rigid like on the 375.
The cunning plan of using a 40mm car U-bolt type exhaust clamp, round the top frame tube, as the basis for a front mount for the Corsaro seat 'hook' to locate on looks as if it will work. It will need a bit of thought about the rear mount. The Corsaro has the pillion seat as a bum stop. Still better and lighter for hill climbs than a standard 2C dual seat though.
Handlebars and custom brake line ordered. The caliper and M/C have cleaned up very well and the new seals and piston have arrived from NLM.
Time to start shopping for a suitable rear tyre. Hmm, looks like it will have to be an Avon this time.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
I've just remembered I've got a mould for a 250 race seat!
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Fibreglass seat? The original hill climber and FE Mk1 used TZ250 replica fibreglass seats. They doubled as number plates. Not too difficult to attach an alloy plate at the front to locate on to the 2C seat 'pins' and I used a hoop between the seat mount points with a single rubber mounting on the top. They aren't cheap these days though.EVguru wrote:I've just remembered I've got a mould for a 250 race seat!
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
I've got a fribreglass seat (heavy layup), the mould and the original plug. The plug came to me with the beginnings of being modified for a 350.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Hmm. PM me a photo. Though it may actually need more work to fit than the Corsaro one. Now the tank is more or less on, my cunning plan looks as if it will work quite well.EVguru wrote:I've got a fribreglass seat (heavy layup), the mould and the original plug. The plug came to me with the beginnings of being modified for a 350.
A milestone today when I finished the fuel lines and started it up for the first time using the 125H tank. Still starting easily on one 'choke' despite it being so cold. After all that talk about the OMG taps I still fooled myself with the taps first time. The tank is sloping up a bit at the back until the mountings are finalise so needed to be on reserve on both taps. Seems OK and the inline filters are flowing nice and clean with no signs of rust flakes.
The Hel brake line arrived today and so I got round to putting the new seals in the caliper and the piston in the M/C. I shall wait for the new handlebars before deciding on the final routing of the line. The caliper bears witness to having been split at some time. I didn't bother to split it to fit the new seals and replace the old good condition pistons. Slightly concerned that the joint may leak once the system is filled and bled, but the way it behaved while extracting the stuck piston suggests it should be OK. I suppose I ought to treat it to new pads. Interestingly, like the 2C forks in the 375, the caliper mountings really need shimming slightly to get it perfectly central over the disc. It's using the front wheel from a different bike but with the disc from the project 2C, the other 2C has its original wheel but a replacement disc. My usual dodge of using rocker shaft shim washers should sort it.
It's beginning to look more the part of a hill climb special now. Its companion is looking a little forlorn standing next to it sans engine, but I'm going to take the opportunity to touch up the bottom frame tube paint before putting the 375 unit back in.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Another step forward. It now has more suitable handlebars and a working front brake. The Grimeca units on a Morini seldom give much trouble when filling an bleeding but the Mityvac I invested in when I had the Japanese MX bikes made light work of it. The inside of the disc is a bit rusty but I've seen much worse. Seems to be pretty powerful but perhaps with a bit more 'feel' than the one on the 375. Same master cylinder and caliper but with a different brake line (not Hel). Different pads as well, though I can't remember what they are on the 375 - what ever NLM supplied when I put the new caliper seals and stainless pistons in 2012. The lad will find it a bit tame after the 320mm disc and Brembo SXS caliper on the KTM, but then it won't usually be arriving at the next corner going as quickly as that. The bars are pretty much the same sort of bend as on the 250EXC so he will feel at home - the seat height will be much lower though - which suits me fine.
Finishing off the tank supports and then fabricating mountings for the single seat are the next jobs. A trial offering up of the Corsrao seat and a short perch on it showed great promise. A very nice riding position for hill climbing. More 'supermoto' style than the original or Forgotten Era Mk1. Saves on getting rear-sets and allows for easier 'footing' in very wet conditions. It's going to look a bit like a miniature Harley flat tracker, but you will have to wait a while for photos. I'd say it will be significantly lighter than the other two Morini hill climbers. I never actually weighed them, but it's really quite easy to lift the back wheel of this one off the deck.
About time I changed the fork oil (I've already checked the drain screws can be loosened). The Konis do seem a bit oversprung - and will particularly with the lad aboard. I must dig the two spare pairs of 350 Marzocchi shocks I have in the shed and review the situation.
Finishing off the tank supports and then fabricating mountings for the single seat are the next jobs. A trial offering up of the Corsrao seat and a short perch on it showed great promise. A very nice riding position for hill climbing. More 'supermoto' style than the original or Forgotten Era Mk1. Saves on getting rear-sets and allows for easier 'footing' in very wet conditions. It's going to look a bit like a miniature Harley flat tracker, but you will have to wait a while for photos. I'd say it will be significantly lighter than the other two Morini hill climbers. I never actually weighed them, but it's really quite easy to lift the back wheel of this one off the deck.
About time I changed the fork oil (I've already checked the drain screws can be loosened). The Konis do seem a bit oversprung - and will particularly with the lad aboard. I must dig the two spare pairs of 350 Marzocchi shocks I have in the shed and review the situation.
Re: Forgotten Era Speed Hill Climb 350 Morini MKII
Not much progress lately. I prioritised putting the 375 lump back in the road 2C to give more floor space in the garage, but decided to give the bottom frame tubes a bit of a spruce up beforehand. Now that's done I'm also going to swap some bits of the donor 2C that are in better condition like the headlamp shell and instrument binnacle. Also needs one or two new O-rings for the PHBH28s that I've given a good cleaning. The new ones will be staying on the project. Then there's holes to drill in the inlet rubber connections for sealable manometer connections. Must check the Morgan brass damper thingies for diameter. The rubber elbows I pinched off the 375 (supplied by Contact Developments 30 years ago as part of the kit) have natty pins that just pull out and push back in but the new ones from NLM are blank.
I've made a start on mountings for the seat. A car exhaust U clamp on the frame top tube, just aft of the tank, with a steel strap that the plastic tongue on the seat pushes under locates the front, but it needs a bit more support each side to stop wobble. The rear is now supported nicely on a strap/loop bolted to existing lugs on the frame rear loop. That loop will eventually have welded on tubes that run forward to the 'spikes' that the standard seat locates on to. They will be just the right height for pads on the underside of the Corsaro one at the front to sit down on to nicely. I don't want to permanently modify this 2C frame at all (unlike the hacked and welded on bits that the 'Rotarini' featured), so another bolt on loop/strap (to the same points) is being fabricated with brackets for the 'captive' securing screws at the top rear of the seat to screw in to. When I've got it all lined up and easy fit or remove I'll weld the two straps together. The complete assembly can then be removed to assist access to the electrics if required. I don't think it will need any extra bracing rearward, but that can be rigged up triangulated from the indicator lugs if required. I definitely think I'll make a thin alloy sheet 'fairing' to neaten up the back. It will cover the join in the two pieces of plastic rear trials mudguard and provide mountings for the racing numbers, as well as hiding the securing screws. Whether to incorporate a bit of 'bum stop' at the same time is the question.
Not got that much further with the shift light system but a cheap DDS signal generator has enabled me to do the Arduino coding side of things and set up a breadboard lash up with three diodes to perform the 'traffic light's strategy I was after (green = 'working', 'amber = 'change up now', 'red' = 'Eeek rpm"). It uses a digital pin interrupt on rising (or falling voltage) though, so until I investigate the wave form output from various sensing options it's not certain that it will be clean enough without some conditioning.
Must find somewhere to modify the 2:1 exhaust header bends to suit the 350/2C dimensions. If all else fails I think a couple of 10 degree mandrel bends let in just before the silencer (which has two intakes rather than a Y piece as part of one header) might do the trick.
I've put a lot more unleaded in to the reclaimed 125H tank and it's still not leaking - hoorah!
I've made a start on mountings for the seat. A car exhaust U clamp on the frame top tube, just aft of the tank, with a steel strap that the plastic tongue on the seat pushes under locates the front, but it needs a bit more support each side to stop wobble. The rear is now supported nicely on a strap/loop bolted to existing lugs on the frame rear loop. That loop will eventually have welded on tubes that run forward to the 'spikes' that the standard seat locates on to. They will be just the right height for pads on the underside of the Corsaro one at the front to sit down on to nicely. I don't want to permanently modify this 2C frame at all (unlike the hacked and welded on bits that the 'Rotarini' featured), so another bolt on loop/strap (to the same points) is being fabricated with brackets for the 'captive' securing screws at the top rear of the seat to screw in to. When I've got it all lined up and easy fit or remove I'll weld the two straps together. The complete assembly can then be removed to assist access to the electrics if required. I don't think it will need any extra bracing rearward, but that can be rigged up triangulated from the indicator lugs if required. I definitely think I'll make a thin alloy sheet 'fairing' to neaten up the back. It will cover the join in the two pieces of plastic rear trials mudguard and provide mountings for the racing numbers, as well as hiding the securing screws. Whether to incorporate a bit of 'bum stop' at the same time is the question.
Not got that much further with the shift light system but a cheap DDS signal generator has enabled me to do the Arduino coding side of things and set up a breadboard lash up with three diodes to perform the 'traffic light's strategy I was after (green = 'working', 'amber = 'change up now', 'red' = 'Eeek rpm"). It uses a digital pin interrupt on rising (or falling voltage) though, so until I investigate the wave form output from various sensing options it's not certain that it will be clean enough without some conditioning.
Must find somewhere to modify the 2:1 exhaust header bends to suit the 350/2C dimensions. If all else fails I think a couple of 10 degree mandrel bends let in just before the silencer (which has two intakes rather than a Y piece as part of one header) might do the trick.
I've put a lot more unleaded in to the reclaimed 125H tank and it's still not leaking - hoorah!