Hello from Tulsa, OK USA

The 3 1/2 forum
claymore
Posts: 21
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 17:59
Location: Tulsa, OK - USA

Hello from Tulsa, OK USA

Post by claymore »

I wanted to introduce myself before asking a bunch of questions. I'm old enough to remember the 70's, had my first motorcycle at the age of 6, ridden dirt and street but only street now.

I have a 2000 Aprilia Falco Streetfighter (the factory streetfighter conversion kit) Black and sliver w/ 4500 mi on the clock. Sweet, clean and babied all the way. She's one a trophy in a bike show and never stops turning heads...

So, why am I here you ask? Well, I just picked up a 1979 Moto Morini 3 1/2, Red w/ black stripes. Here is where it gets good...Just picked it out of a collection of rare Italian bikes. This 3 1/2 has got 2,600 miles on the clock, Original Tires...Hell, Original Everything! Clean as a whistle, No dings, dents or crusty rusty parts. Basically been sitting since 1985...(last tagged)

I have to Clean the carbs, gas tank (er, I mean petrol) Clean the brakes, master cylinder bleed and feed, Get a battery and she will be good to go.

So, What other common issues or parts should I be looking out for? I assume one of you have torn one to bits and know every nut and bolt, problem and trick...

I have rebuilt many motorcycles in the past, but none so rare (for the USA) and beautiful. I can't wait to ride her.

Also, what is this one worth? It is definately C1 or showroom condition. Pounds or dollars, I just want to get a good Idea of what they go for in this condition.

Thanks in advance and Cheers!

"Okie from Oklahoma"
User avatar
robinh44
Posts: 241
Joined: 26 May 2006 08:34
Location: Suffolk, UK

Post by robinh44 »

Claymore,

Welcome to the forum, sounds like you have picked up a real gem. If the engine has been unused for a while you should consider replacing the timing belt ( check the pulley for size it will be stamped a,b or c). Also the dry clutch is worth dismantling, inspecting and cleaning, I have used brake cleaner on mine.
To help you along I have put a link to download a service manual, it covers the 125,250,350 & 500 models.
http://www.morinispecial.it/manuali/Service-Manual.pdf

Keep us updated with your progress.

Regards

Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
claymore
Posts: 21
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 17:59
Location: Tulsa, OK - USA

Sweet

Post by claymore »

Thanks for the PDF's...

I believe that I will inspect the timing belt before riding. Now, If the belt goes while riding will this SHELL the motor?

I've got some small oil spots (fresh oil) in the middle of the cases on the bottom of the motor. Are these bikes prone to leaking? I figure I'll just tighten all the bolts.

Anyone else with wisdom to take heed from out there???

Thanks and Cheers!
FRONT TOWARD ENEMY
User avatar
robinh44
Posts: 241
Joined: 26 May 2006 08:34
Location: Suffolk, UK

Post by robinh44 »

Hi,

If the belt goes the valves could hit the piston and get damaged so it is a advisable to replace the belt, the belt then needs regular replacement. It is a standard industrial timing belt. Regarding the oil leaks you could nip up the bolts and then check if it solves the leak, mine is still mid-rebuild so I have no running experience of how leak proof these engines are, but do not see many complaints on the forums. Good luck.

Regards

Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
claymore
Posts: 21
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 17:59
Location: Tulsa, OK - USA

Ok

Post by claymore »

You talked me into it. Where can I get a timing belt?

I am going to start it up and take it for a small ride on Sunday after inspecting the belt. I assume it will be OK, as long as I don't wind it up real hard.

Thanks for all the input.
FRONT TOWARD ENEMY
User avatar
robinh44
Posts: 241
Joined: 26 May 2006 08:34
Location: Suffolk, UK

Post by robinh44 »

Hi,

Yes you will be ok running up the engine after checking belt for any splits or cuts.
The belt is a general purpose industrial timing belt, the reference to search for is '124 L075'. Do a google search for a belt supplier in the US, I bought 3 to save on postage and have some stock for future changes but I use a supplier in the UK. Any problems getting a belt let me know and I can order them over here and ship to you.

Regards

Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
claymore
Posts: 21
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 17:59
Location: Tulsa, OK - USA

Thanks

Post by claymore »

Sweet. Thanks for the information. I actuall found a website late last night that described IN GERMAN how to change the belt....On to the translation manual....

I will search today for a belt.
FRONT TOWARD ENEMY
3narf
Posts: 138
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:41
Location: Tetbury

Re: Sweet

Post by 3narf »

claymore wrote:Thanks for the PDF's...

I believe that I will inspect the timing belt before riding. Now, If the belt goes while riding will this SHELL the motor?

I've got some small oil spots (fresh oil) in the middle of the cases on the bottom of the motor. Are these bikes prone to leaking? I figure I'll just tighten all the bolts.

Anyone else with wisdom to take heed from out there???

Thanks and Cheers!
The belt snapped on my old 500 and bent all the valves. Depends on the load on the engine at the point when it goes.

Slight oil seepage could be from the cases where the breather hose attaches (loose J-clip), the oil strainer housing seal, or more likely the gearchange shaft oil seal or the two clutch seals.

If it's the latter, ignore it- a bit of oil on the plates improves the action spectacularly.
EVguru
Posts: 1528
Joined: 01 Aug 2006 11:13
Location: Luton
Contact:

Post by EVguru »

That's the first time I've ever heard someone claim oil in the clutch improves it! (except on 125 and 250 2C where a dry clutch would mean BIG engine trouble)

The clutch should be bone dry and have the dust cleaned out (common cause of grabby clutch) from time to time. Any oil on the plates tends to make them very tempremental in traffic.

Don't put too much oil it (keep it between the marks) and don't use the side stand very much. The only time my 350 leaks (it weeps slightly from both pushrod tunnels) is at track days where the centre stand is wired up.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Jem
Posts: 127
Joined: 05 Aug 2006 14:17

Post by Jem »

Graded belts are no longer available. NLM ran out a couple of years ago as did Herdan in Pennsylvania. Loads of companies make belts - use the more reputable ones. I'm currently using Goodyear belts.

I've had a belt (from an obscure manufacturer) break on my Kanguro and it didn't do any damage though I wasn't going too fast at the time. I heard a noise, declutched, the engine stalled, I released the clutch to bump-start and found the engine was locked.

What happened was that the camshaft settled "bumps" down and these then hit the crankshaft webs (not a lot of room in a V-twin!). The camshaft wasn't dented or bent and the valves never got too close to the pistons - perhaps 500s have different clearances (or 3narf was revving it).

Replacing belts is fairly easy if the old belt is scrap - cut it off. If, for any reason you remove the pulleys polish them up on a wire wheel to remove the rust & muck (the timing side is open to the elements). When fitting a new belt use generous quantities of talc to help the belt slide on - never use a liquid lubricant! I found it helps to rock the crank back & forth while applying pressure to the belt.

If the belt breaks and the timing is lost the procedure in the factory manual is good (except when the punch mark is on the wrong tooth...)
claymore
Posts: 21
Joined: 16 Apr 2007 17:59
Location: Tulsa, OK - USA

Great

Post by claymore »

Thanks guys, for all your input...

I Have a Goodyear Belt orderd and on the way, Should have it on this weekend However, I do not have one of those tools with the pins to hold the ? from rotating. I was going to attempt this with a "Strap Wrench" and see if that works. If it dosen't I'll have a local fab shop make one out of Stainless Steel.

My Pullies look like they have a small dusting of surface rust. I will be sure to clean them up before installing the belt.

Talc? Baby butt powder...will that work? It has talc in it...

I'm hoping that the 3 1/2 will sound a bit like Robins', all growly and all...How loud are the stock pipes? Surely beats the 90 db range...
FRONT TOWARD ENEMY
User avatar
robinh44
Posts: 241
Joined: 26 May 2006 08:34
Location: Suffolk, UK

Post by robinh44 »

Claymore,

The engine in mine is stock and the original exhaust was the trail Franconi 2-1 silencer with the baffles missing. On your pipes if it is to quiet check to see if the baffles can be removed for better sound. However always check how the engine is running after any change to exhaust, particularly mixture via the colour of the spark plugs.
A tip I saw for changing the belt was if the timing is good and the engine running ok, cut the front half of the belt off then slip the new belt on and cut the remainder of the old belt off and slide the new belt fully on. This preserves the valve timing.

Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
User avatar
Steve Scott
Posts: 23
Joined: 02 May 2006 17:18
Location: Pennsylvania, USA

Post by Steve Scott »

Claymore,
How did I miss this? Another running Morini in the US? :D I'm guessing that by now you've already got the belt changed, drained and inspected the oil, refilled with new, adjusted the valves and listened to her run right? I've got a friend with a 3 1/2 and it sounds sweet indeed. Less top-end noise than my 500 although a bit of piston-slap from the front cylinder is normal. These things make for fine sporting mounts, deliver 60 or so mpg and despite their rarity are incredibly easy to find parts for, easier even than my old Honda 360s! They are old-tech though and require a bit more frequent attention than current machinery.

The Holy Grail of Morini twins remains the drum braked Sport, but lets face it they're all pretty rare. I don't know about the 350s but I figure mine to be worth around $3K. Having said that, I've seen them languish on Ebay and go for much less. Morinis suffer a bit from the same scarcity that makes them attractive to odd, er... eccentric, uh... enlightened folks like us.
1979 500 Sport
3narf
Posts: 138
Joined: 10 Jan 2007 12:41
Location: Tetbury

Post by 3narf »

EVguru wrote:That's the first time I've ever heard someone claim oil in the clutch improves it! The clutch should be bone dry and have the dust cleaned out (common cause of grabby clutch) from time to time. Any oil on the plates tends to make them very tempremental in traffic.
In my humble experience (I commuted on my 3 1/2, year round for several years)- the clutch improves the more you use it. It's at its worst just after having been taken apart and reassembled. I find them grabby when completely clean and dry.

All Morinis (and riders) are different, I suppose...
EVguru
Posts: 1528
Joined: 01 Aug 2006 11:13
Location: Luton
Contact:

Post by EVguru »

The Holy Grail of Morini twins remains the drum braked Sport, but lets face it they're all pretty rare. I don't know about the 350s but I figure mine to be worth around $3K. Having said that, I've seen them languish on Ebay and go for much less. Morinis suffer a bit from the same scarcity that makes them attractive to odd, er... eccentric, uh... enlightened folks like us.
I bought a double drum Sport recently for £665

Pretty rough, but all present and correct. It's an original Harglo bike, two owners from new and 12,500 miles on the clock. It had spent the last 15 years underneath a tarp in the front garden of a house in East Ham.

Warning, BIG pictures.

http://www.compton.vispa.com/Pictures/barnmorini.jpg
http://www.compton.vispa.com/Pictures/trailermorini.jpg
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Post Reply