Any hints and tips on setting up the Twin-Leading Shoe?

[mhsilverw]

I have scoured the old Harglo manual and the 'blue' Service manual and a 350 Handbook. The Harglo manual doesnt seem to cover this, both the blue service manual and the handbook (I have) must have been written/published after the arrival of the disc brake front end as they seem to go into detail on that and only briefly touch on the rear brake.

The part book I have shows what goes where but no detail of how your suppossed to adjust the brake.

Trying to be creative I went to look for notes on other bikes that I know had TLS - to see if I could track down some notes on other bikes with the Grimica brakes. I thought of Ducati singles before they went with discs {only old manual I had seemed to cover discs and was more focussed on the engine and the desmo heads (probably sensible!) and maybe a Guzzi Nuovo Falcone (not sure if that had the same brake) but no luck so far!

I did wonder if adjustment of the brake and setting up may have been covered in ATG in the past or if other owners have any step by step adjustments that can pass on for the TLS that I and other owners might find useful.

Mark

This could save me from the perils of ebay searching for other bikes instructions where a TLS might have been used: thinking of things like older Honda's CB175/25/350; later BSA/Triumph maybe; or /5 or /6 Beemers perhaps and not sure if the Enfield 350/500 may have that sort of brake....

[George 350]

OK, what follows is how I used to set up the 2LS brake on my old racing Bantam, but the process should be the same for the Morini.
Use a front wheel stand to get front wheel clear of floor so it can rotate. (or use jack under front of frame, but this is not as safe).
Slacken off the cross link so that when you pull in the lever only 1 shoe touches the drum. Adjust cable adjuster so that brake is JUST touching the drum (ie, you can still turn the wheel, but it isn't free spinning.)
Slacken off cable adjuster by 1 turn - Wheel should now be free to turn. At the wheel, tighten up link rod for 2nd shoe so that the 2nd shoe is just making contact with the drum. (ie, you can still turn the wheel, but it isn't free spinning.) Now slacken off the link rod by 1 turn. If you now retighten the cable adjuster very slowly while the wheel is spinning, you should be able to detect both shoes contacting the drum together. If not, then small adjustments (1/4 turn either way) on the link rod will soon have both shoes touching simultaneously.
Tighten the locknut on the link rod, and adjust the cable for correct lever -handlebar reach and it is job done.

Hope that this helps,
George.

[tankstraddler]

Remove the wheel from the machine and lie it on the bench. Disconnect the connecting rod on one of the brake operating arms but leave it lying loosely in position. Operate the arm with the rod attached by hand until you feel it contact the drum then do the same with the other arm and note how far the bolt hole in the rod is from the hole in the other arm. Adjust the rod by that amount and re-check, make any necessary fine final adjustment and re-connect the rod. Job done.