Probably a simple task but I'll ask anyway!!!
I need to remove my 1981 3 1/2 rear wheel as I need to get the tyre checked out - not sure if previous owner had tubes fitted or not but really paranoid now as I checked it on Sunday and it only had 6psi! If anyone knows how to check if a tube is fitted (or not) without removing the tyre please let me know!
Anyway, I seem to recall that the wheel can be removed with the chain and sprockets left in place - am I correct?
If so, which bits do I need to remove to get the wheel off?
If there's no tube in the rear it seems a safe bet that the front does not have one either and the thought of a high speed deflation is causing me some concern as I rode all last year without even giving this a thought!
Thanks for any help offered.
Keith
Rear wheel removal / tube issues
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
Firstly I see no reason for concern at this stage. All was fine last year.
If your tyre is tubeless the tyre valve will probably have no locknut. If it does then it is almost certain to be the tubed type. Fit new valves/ tubes with your tyres and keep any tubes (if fitted)as a roadside spare.
Removing the wheel is simple.just use the appropriate size scanners to remove the spindle. In my experience the sprocket always comes away and can be a pig to refit. Not hard,just fiddly.
If your tyre is tubeless the tyre valve will probably have no locknut. If it does then it is almost certain to be the tubed type. Fit new valves/ tubes with your tyres and keep any tubes (if fitted)as a roadside spare.
Removing the wheel is simple.just use the appropriate size scanners to remove the spindle. In my experience the sprocket always comes away and can be a pig to refit. Not hard,just fiddly.
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MickeyMoto
- Posts: 2432
- Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
- Location: Even further oop North
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
You will notice 2 x nuts on the rear wheel spindle.
Undo the outer one and the spindle will come out (may have to remove exhaust pipe, jump on suspension). The wheel will come away and leave the sprocket bolted to the swinging arm. Don't forget to undo the rear brake torque arm if drum.... not sure about disc caliper...
Great idea as don't have to worry about wheel alignment, chain tension or getting hands dirty on the chain etc.
As for the tubes, usually the valves on tubes are metal and are held to the rim with a nut (sometimes this is left undone). Tubeless tend to have a rubber valve in the rim, which tyre fitters cut off and fit a new one.
HTH,
Mike.
Undo the outer one and the spindle will come out (may have to remove exhaust pipe, jump on suspension). The wheel will come away and leave the sprocket bolted to the swinging arm. Don't forget to undo the rear brake torque arm if drum.... not sure about disc caliper...
Great idea as don't have to worry about wheel alignment, chain tension or getting hands dirty on the chain etc.
As for the tubes, usually the valves on tubes are metal and are held to the rim with a nut (sometimes this is left undone). Tubeless tend to have a rubber valve in the rim, which tyre fitters cut off and fit a new one.
HTH,
Mike.
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
Thanks guys, I think my bike has nuts around the valves so almost certainly tubes fitted then - a relief!
Will have a better look at the weekend and may take precaution of having new tube fitted to the rear if pressure has dropped since last weeked. Tyres are in good order so no point replacing yet (expensive too).
Local bike shop/tyre dealer should be able to do this as I don't want to damage my rims by having a go myself - bicycle tyres are no problem but motorcycle tyres and tyre levers are another matter!
Thanks again,
Keith
Will have a better look at the weekend and may take precaution of having new tube fitted to the rear if pressure has dropped since last weeked. Tyres are in good order so no point replacing yet (expensive too).
Local bike shop/tyre dealer should be able to do this as I don't want to damage my rims by having a go myself - bicycle tyres are no problem but motorcycle tyres and tyre levers are another matter!
Thanks again,
Keith
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
I have only removed my rear wheel about 3 times but always find it's been harder than i expected to get it out with the sprocket carrier in situ. this with a rear disc but maybe I am doing it wrong.
One of my carrier bearings was grim so Ive done them all. (not that i want to put ideas into your head or anything.....)
One of my carrier bearings was grim so Ive done them all. (not that i want to put ideas into your head or anything.....)
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
In my experience even the cast wheel models usually ran with tubes, I'm not sure they were designed with tubeless tyres in mind.
If it is a drum rear brake the sprocket carrier arrangement works very well. The only hassle is aligning the wheel with the rubber cush drive. It's a bit more of a fiddle on a 2C which still has a cush drive sprocket carrier but no 'dummy spindle' so everything needs wiggling around to line up. A piece of plank under the wheel to get the height just right before introducing the spindle helps.
As well as a new tube consider addressing any roughness of the alloy where the tube sits next to it. I had a tube failure on the 'inside' of the tube next to the rim where the tube had rubbed (possibly due to being run a bit low in pressure when I used to hillclimb the road Morini).
If it is a drum rear brake the sprocket carrier arrangement works very well. The only hassle is aligning the wheel with the rubber cush drive. It's a bit more of a fiddle on a 2C which still has a cush drive sprocket carrier but no 'dummy spindle' so everything needs wiggling around to line up. A piece of plank under the wheel to get the height just right before introducing the spindle helps.
As well as a new tube consider addressing any roughness of the alloy where the tube sits next to it. I had a tube failure on the 'inside' of the tube next to the rim where the tube had rubbed (possibly due to being run a bit low in pressure when I used to hillclimb the road Morini).
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
I've heard of people running their tyres tubeless on Morinis and many other bikes.
The wheels have no retaining hump to retain the tyre bead, so if the pressure drops too low the bead can become unseated and You then have a sudden complete de-flation. If you're lucky you'll be able to stop ok, but one or other bead could easily drop into the well in the rim that allows tyres to be fitted. Although it's unlikely, it could also get pulled off the outside of the rim and lock the wheel.
It's a good way to invalidate your insurance!
The wheels have no retaining hump to retain the tyre bead, so if the pressure drops too low the bead can become unseated and You then have a sudden complete de-flation. If you're lucky you'll be able to stop ok, but one or other bead could easily drop into the well in the rim that allows tyres to be fitted. Although it's unlikely, it could also get pulled off the outside of the rim and lock the wheel.
It's a good way to invalidate your insurance!
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
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markie_wales
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 15 Nov 2011 09:25
- Location: Hampshire, UK
Re: Rear wheel removal / tube issues
Tube vs no-tube.
If there is a nut on the valve stem it's "probably" tubed. Remove nut and with 6 psi you should be able to press the valve steam into the wheel. If no tube fitted there will be a rubber "seal" inside and outside of the wheel, and even with 0 psi you should not be able to press the valve into the wheel ( clearly don't press so hard as to force the rubber seal in).
Changing a tube is pretty easy, and if you are worried about your rims, get some rim-protectors from Hein Gericke or where ever. If I can do a 140 width tyre / tube on my KTM you should be able to do one without too much trouble.
cheers
Markie
If there is a nut on the valve stem it's "probably" tubed. Remove nut and with 6 psi you should be able to press the valve steam into the wheel. If no tube fitted there will be a rubber "seal" inside and outside of the wheel, and even with 0 psi you should not be able to press the valve into the wheel ( clearly don't press so hard as to force the rubber seal in).
Changing a tube is pretty easy, and if you are worried about your rims, get some rim-protectors from Hein Gericke or where ever. If I can do a 140 width tyre / tube on my KTM you should be able to do one without too much trouble.
cheers
Markie