Electrical problems.......with a Morini????

[Paul the Destroyer]

Right then it's time for idiotic question number 4,589,643

First the facts 1977 A3 Strada

I went to see a mate in That There London on Monday and after congratulating each other on not breaking any bikes for at least a month I meandered home.

On the way the front rocker cover loosened and sprayed a little oil but the big problem was that I lost the rear light lens.

Now the backing plate/body of the lemap had a big chunk missing so I ordered a new lamp from NLM .........are we following so far ???

Now the lamp on the bike had a "normal" twin filament bulb of the LED type fitted. The one I was sent had a single filament bulb and a festoon bulb.

So easily sorted thought I

After a bit of wiring extending I have a rear light using the festoon bulb but the brake light refuses. Also I now have no life at the following

Indicators
Horn
Headlight Flash
Brake Light

The fuse keeps blowing too.

I have a good earth that has continuity from the earth point to the battery negative.

What is my problem and help as I need to ride tonight as one of mates from the Harley club wants a go and I can't send him out with indicators or brake light.

There are 2 terminals on the lamp and the earth runs from a mount bolt out to the frame of the bike

All abuse welcomed

[Paul the Destroyer]

Hokay next update

I've tried both bulbs as brakelights and both blow the fuse. When the brake light is not connected at the rear light everythings fine and dandy.

Now the indicators seem to have stopped working as they should

The right one flashes once every 30 seconds or so the left one only flashes the front once.

I'm starting to thibnk about cans of petrol

I've had a long conversation with Stuart at NLM who is of same opinion as me that it's only 2 wires!!!

(sounds of crying in background)

[mgelder]

It's a Morini. It could well be just a coincidence that the problem has happened because you've changed the light...

Wasn't the brake light already a bit hit and miss when we rode up to Mad Mike's?

I've had problems with the main electrical circuits (lights, horn, indicators, brake light) sometimes not working which seem to be down to the ignition switch not making contatct. Try turning it off and on again, while jiggling the key a bit. Seriously.

Then I'd take the right sidepanel off and one by one remove, clean and replace all the connectors going to the connection board. That's cured a few mystery electrical issues on mine a few times as well.

After that, I'd try making a new earth for the rear light. I'd also at this point be suspecting a fault in the housing of the new rear light, or in the bulb holder or something. Have you got another brake light of any sort you can try? Do you want to borrow the standard one off mine?

[Paul the Destroyer]

Hi Mart

I still have the old lamp that is damaged to try.

I may have to look at the connection board connectors .

So far I've established that the brake switch is contacting via a continuity test

The earth I've made has continuity between it and the battery negative

When power is put to them both lights work independantly

It's just this fuse blowing problem now the indicators refuse to work

Still we have people over today so I'm busy polishing cats etc.

Tomorrow however is another matter

I suppose it's all my fault for congratulating myself that i haven't broke anything for ages

[George 350]

Paul,

Sounds to me like your problem is with the brake light switch, not the lamp unit.
Were you riding in the rain or maybe you washed the bike? If so, it might be that your brake light switch is full of water and shorts to earth as soon as you try and activate it? Or simply that your switch has decided to break up at exactly the same time as you lost the rear light lens. Other possibility is that the wire from switch to lamp has chafed through to the frame somewhere.

Good Luck,
George.

[mgelder]

"Were you riding in the rain"

Or, in other words, "have you been riding this summer...."



Top tip on the brake light switch, I reckon...

[Paul the Destroyer]

Right then I've been back outside and I think I've sussed it

Indicators inop turned out to be a blown fuse.

Replace fuse and it blows as soon as the ignition is turned on.

Remove leads from rear light and it still happens

Remove leads from brake light switch and it stops.

Replaced blown bulb in rear left indicator and they work.

Touch wires that normally attach to the brake switch and rear light works and fuse doesn't blow.

So it's definatley the switch.

Now here's the kicker the cable has only been on since February so NLM will be getting a polite phone call on tuesday to see if they can help.

[EVguru]

One of the switch contacts must be shorting out to the brake cable to blow the fuse in the way you describe.

When checking for faults, wiring a headlamp bulb in place of the fuse is often helpful. Brake, tail, side, indicator lights etc. will work without lighting a main beam filament, but the bulb will light if there is a short.

[dr j]

Another tip to save on blown fuses while sorting out the short is to go to a car parts store and buy a 12v circuit breaker with ATC prongs of the same amp as the fuse. I used a BUSS #712539 T38 25A 12v when sorting my Dart 25A fuse short. It fits right into the fuse box to temporarily replace the fuse and in US only about $4.00. Then hook up a test light to that circuit so you can see when it shorts out. In maybe about 15 seconds the circuit breaker will automatically reset and light comes back on so you can test the next spot on the wiring/connector. Very handy. I bought both a 25A and a 15A just in case. Hope you find the issue.

[Paul the Destroyer]

Well it's definatley the brake switch

I've ordered a new one yesterday and NLM will get the 4 month old one back once I've swapped them.

[Paul the Destroyer]

Well the cable arrived yesterday and it took a mere moment to fit. Normal service has been resumed although the light still needs a good hard stomp to light the light.

Does someone know of a better way of doing things rather than rely on the horrible in line switches?

[George 350]

Hi Paul,

What footrest set up have you got? If standard, then almost any switch can be adapted to fit. Have a look at Wemoto, Unity Equipe etc to see what is available. If you have rearsets, then it can be a little more difficult. I am using the small switch that came with the rearsets I have, but as with a lot of things I modified the way it is actuated. This has proved very reliable. This switch is round, and threads into the brake cable stop. Probably the best thing you can do is to make a switch work off the front brake. Haven't got this on my Sport (yet), but wil be on my Strada. You have choices here. If you have a disc, then an in line switch can be fitted in the hose, while disc or drum, a switch can be fitted to the underside of the front brake lever. This is the route I am taking on the Strada, but it isn't on there yet as the bike is still in a big pile of bits.
Have a look at any modern (post 1986) bike, even mopeds to see how easy it is to integrate a front brake light switch.

Good Luck,
George.

[Paul the Destroyer]

Cheers George

I have hyrdaulic switches on the harley so I might look at them