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On my 350 with the 6 pole ignition switch, the key can be removed when in the "on" position. I guess worn internals as a spare key does the same. Is there an alternative switch that can fit into the existing mounting bracket (with a locating slot) , or a recommended cure e.g. buy a new one from NLM.Pehaps i,ve answered my own question....
I guess this is common. I dont fancy losing the key en route. i have a second older switch that did the same so might investigate internals if it can be done.

Tie a piece of string around the key and on the other end have a clasp. Attach to bike and all good. For an upmarket version, you need one of the springy cables to replace the string.....

Take key out of pocket, turn on ignition, put key back in pocket, start engine and ride....

Mines been like that since I've had it. I'd assumed a replacement switch would need splicing into the loom somehow, and then would eventually suffer the same fate, so....

NLM do sell a replacement, fits the frame fine but if i remember correctly the rubber boot doesn't fit snugly as the switch has a smaller diameter than the original. I managed to find an original replacement on ebay.

The replacement from NLM is a good quality part but is smaller than the original and the rubber boot will not fit. I heat shrinked mine after wiring it up and it is a very neat solution.

I tried dismantling my old spare ignition switch for something to do. Once I'd prized up the bezel I could pull out the back plate with the spades then beneath is another plate with contacts which correspond as it turns. Pull this out and you see a brass coloured wavy disc held by a brass pin. By turning the switch the pin lines up with 2 holes in the outer body and you can drive it out.The inner end of the lock is D shaped and this fits into the wavy disc.it's drilled to allow the retaining pin to pass through it. it A light tap on this and the lock falls out.At the same time 2 ballbearings on springs make their presence known.Luckily I somehow found them under the workbench. Meantime the lock has a semicircular "retaining washer" which has a notch in it which engages with a pin in the body of the switch on reassembly. I had to put it all back together and it is an easy job (compared to some locks) as you can hold the wavy disc onto the 2 ball bearings on their springs and push the pin in. the plate with the inner contacts sits over the wavy disc and has a slot to go over the retaining pin.
To cut to the chase I didn't fix the loose key thing but I now know what is inside the switch. Guess the lock mech is the culprit. i may have a rummage in ye olde BMW parts box to see if anything matches.
I decided to fork out for a replacement..........

When I noticed mine started behaving this way, I sprayed CRC in there and that loosened the pins so they now hold the key in.

Next problem, the engine won't turn off so I'm having to use the kill switch.

Just "getting a new one from NLM" isn't my preferred first option so does anyone have any guidance, please?
Cheers,
DD

My lock came to me in pieces in a plastic bag. No key either. I sent it to my buddy who restores locks and it came back looking and working like new, with two new keys. He had to order some little parts but he knew what to buy. I have no problem handing over stuf like this to people who know what they are doing.