Chains

[penman]

A quick question for you. My 350 K2 only has about 3000 miles on the clock even now and the original chain seems to have very little visible wear. However, it seems to be made of very stretchy material and I have had to adjust it a number of times in just about 1000 miles. It's also very sloppy, so time for a new one I think, maybe there's wear or corrosion inside the rollers. It seems to measure up as a 530 chain, 5/8" by 3/8" - maybe someone can confirm or correct me here? Also, any recommendation on make of chain - I use Regina chains on the Triumphs and I'm pleased with them, but I'm not impressed with this original chain which also seems to be made by Regina.

Oh, I should add. The original chain was continuous, no split link. Is there a reason for that, or can I fit a chain with a split link? Certainly I can see no obvious reason why not.

Many thanks!

Joe.

[Steve Brown]

Hi Joe, yes 530 or 5/8 x 3/8 is the standard, no room for 'O' ring type chain though unless you convert to 520.

If there's no corrosion externally I doubt it would be inside either. If it were then you would get a rusty stain leaking out when it is ridden. Regina is fine in my mind too along with most other named brands, just make sure it is meant for motorcycles rather than general machinery. There is an ISO standard but I don't know it, google maybe?

Never had a later K model but all the older types had a split link and all my bikes do without any trouble. Just fit them correctly as you would with your other bikes. Maybe that isn't the original either? A bike that stood so much may have had it changed for corrosion reasons perhaps? Also, if it was the original then any stretching would have happened by that mileage so maybe it is a replacement that was never used?

[George 350]

Hi Joe.
I think the problem is modern chain lubes appear to be designed for o-ring chains, not non o-ring. I put a new chain on my Sport before leaving for Spain last year and I couldn't believe how much it stretched in 3000 miles despite lubing it every fuel stop and evening. (It was a DID by the way).
It is for this reason that I've gone 520 chain and sprockets so that I can run an o-ring chain, but it is too early to see if it has improved matters. Perhaps I should have bought a Scottoiler like I had on my Thundercat - adjusted the chain twice in 26000 miles!
Check that the bearings in the sprocket carrier are OK (they get a hard time if the chain has been run too tight), and that the wheels AND sprockets are truly in line too.
Hope that this helps,
George.

PS: Both my 350's came with split link chains.

[72degrees]

A split link will be fine. I've run a Gilera Nordwest dyno'd at 55 BHP on a HD non-oring 520 chain with split link. Worth checking it occasionally to make sure the legs haven't gone 'wobbly' at all. I've just converted the 'project' to 520 and while I was getting a custom rear sprocket made I got Sprockets Unlimited to also make me a 38T one to fit the 2C carrier and will go 520 on the 375/2C once the engine has gone back in. They will both run with split links. Then 3000 miles would be a very high mileage year on one bike for me - too many!

[penman]

Hi guys,
Many thanks for all the replies and your advice. Interesting point George makes about chain lubricants. I cautiously tried using chain saw chain oil a few years ago and I think it stays on the chain better, less of it ends up decorating the back wheel. Lubrication wise, it's certainly no worse than the usual chain lube in spray cans, though of course it's less convenient to apply. I've used it ever since. Funnily enough, I invested in a bright yellow can of Putoline lube for the Morini. Hmm, mistake? Chain saw oil is the only motorcycle accessory I buy in Wickes!

[norbert]

I´m driving 520 O- or X-ring chains for years and I´m quite content with them. In my Experience a main problem with the morinis is that te chain often is getting longer not lineal (don´t know the right word). If you adjust it, you always have to try free play in diferent positions! Some people say this problem is dued to the ignicion characteristic of our engines. The best experience I had with 520 DID X-ring chains.

norbert

[davel182]

I bought a 530 chain for my K1 recently. I chose Iwis because it's German and both Sprockets Unlimited and "The Chain Man" recommend (and supply) it.

[MickeyMoto]

O ring chain on 35hp? Overkill?

[EVguru]

Chains wear and you get increasing clearance between the plates, pins and rollers. They don't 'stretch' as such.

Initial uneven tension in the chain can come from a couple of sources. The PCD (pitch circle diameter) of the sprockets should be concentric with their mounting. The allowable tolerance is generally 0.1mm for the rear and you have to have some clearance on the hub so you can get in on and off. The chain itself can also have some variation in pitch.

Uneven wear can be due to the reduction ratio. If the same link always hits the same tooth and you have an uneven load (as you do due to the torque pulses) you'll get uneven wear. You try to chose a ratio that gives a 'walking tooth' effect. Different ratios will have different periods between the same link and tooth coming together again.

[George 350]

O ring chain on 35hp? Overkill?

Mickey,
It doesn't matter what power level the bike has - if the grease doesn't stay between the pins and bushes, the chain will wear, and I feel that the current generation of spray on lubes do a poor job of getting the 'grease' where it is needed.
Worst thing about O ring chains is the extra drag/friction when it bends and straightens around the sprockets. The upside is at least the grease stays where it is needed so the chain stays in adjustment for much longer distances.
In the good old days we used to wash the chains in petrol then immerse them in 'Lynklife' or 'Chainguard', (usually making a mess on Mum's cooker in the process,) then hanging up the chain for the excess to drain back into the tin.
That stuff was almost like tar when it was cold.
Remember the stuff? Can you still get it?

regards,
George.

[MarkB]

I've got a big tin of Putolene, and no other half to tell me off for putting it on the gas hob. I usually give the chains an annual wash 'n bath, but since I fitted Scottoilers the chain life is much better. I've been running the Strada on 520 chain and sprockets (with 14 teeth on the front one, not like Mickymoto's boastful 15) and I'm about to change the Sport to 520 also.

Andy the Chain Man is excellent for impartial advice about chains: you can't buy from him on-line, you have to phone and speak to him so that he knows what bike you're buying the chain for, what type of use the bike gets, how many miles etc. Then he'll sell you the right one.

[davel182]

I've still got a tin of Linklyfe which you stir vigorously and then brush on, but I don't think it's available any longer.

I bought my chain from Andy - if you live anywhere near Bewdley you can visit him at home - he has some interesting stories and opinions.

[EVguru]

Chain strength is mostly down to the size of the links, whilst the width effects the service life more. Motorcycle chain has heavier side plates than standard industrial chain and there are heavy duty and extra heavy duty motorcycle chains.

Using 530 chain on 35bhp is overkill, but was probably the cheap option as it's a popular size. Using O-ring chain is just a means of extending the service life.

Although an O-ring chain causes extra friction and absorbs a little power, you may get that back in comparison to a standard chain that's not perfectly maintained. You can always pay extra and buy an X-ring chain which has lower friction.

The Dart runs an 520 O-ring chain as standard.

I've been using LM grease applied with a toothbrush on O-ring chains. It seems to last well and genuinely is low 'fling' with little of it ending up on the wheels.

[TimG.]

Is that NLM grease?

[MickeyMoto]

Hohoho...

Scottoilers best, but oil flings. I use a chain cleaner then a spray. Messes the rear wheel, but 14k miles from a Corsaro not shabby.

If maintained, a good quality non-o ring chain is my choice.