*** Moto Morini 350 K2 Spark Issue ***

[ApriliaRSVR]

Hi so I am new to the "italian" bikes but I am having an issue with a spark. Bike has (2000miles) on it, and was running before hand. All connections have been redone (New clips), will post a photo of the fuse panel harness.

Fuse Box Panel

Fuse Box Panel.jpg (497.75 KiB) Viewed 11042 times

Now every single line is inserted into the correct pin as per from the wiring diagram. I posted the wring diargram from the original manual (NOTE: their are very faint lines inbetween SOME pins that are connecting said pins togeather within "fusebox").

Wiring Diagram

Moto Morini 350 K2.jpg (480.27 KiB) Viewed 11042 times

Wiring Diagram Legend

1986 Moto Morini 350 K2 Electrical System Legend.jpg (359.61 KiB) Viewed 11042 times

One issue is (12V) are coming out of the stator (alternator) YELLOW Wires. If im correct only AC should be exerted ONLY when the bike is RUNNING???

So I am wondering if there is anyone who can help me out on this issue and has any experience with this electrical system or possibly this may be the wrong manual? the bike is a 350 K2 but is their a possibility a different electrical system on a different year or half year....

Also the reg/rec is blown (diodes are opened), I brought the part number to Ducati (Ducati electrical system) and they have a price available but they said they are not able to order it. Nor will they help with finding an alternative. (Single Phase 300Watt / 12V / 18A). Anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you.

[Ming]

Can't help with your wiring problems, but I can suggest an alternative for the Ducatielettronica regulator. My Strada (much modified) came with a Boyer Powerbox regulator. It uses the two yellows from the generator as ac input - the red is left isolated. Output is 12Vdc and can be operated without a battery. I have also used one on a Kanguro with great success.
Alternatively, someone may have a spare regulator - in fact I might have one myself, though I suspect it's a 6V one.

[72degrees]

I suspect the 12v on the yellow wires is because the reg/rec diodes are blown.
That shouldn't really stop a spark being produced unless the ignition winding on the stator is no good. Sounds like something has possibly caused overheating.

A K2 should start and run quite happily without a battery. Try disconnecting the yellow and red wires from the stator leaving just the green one and see if you get a spark then. Also then worth eliminating the connection to the ignition switch to rule out any problems (including shorts to earth) with that. If no spark then, you will need to test the ignition coil (resistance and AC output from the green wire) and work back from there. Lots of info on the ignition system in posts here.

The replacement Boyer reg/rec Ming mentioned works well on a K2. I had to put one on the K2 I had for a while. I also had to get an exchange rewound stator and a new transducer I'm afraid the Morini ignition system does not always age well.

[EVguru]

I have videos on my YouTube channel showing how to test the ignition boxes. Søren Hansen has more useful information on his channel.

The ignition is supplied from a seperate winding on the alternator, which produces very roughly 90 to 350VAC (depending on rpm). The ignition switch shorts this to ground to stop the engine and so does the kill switch.

Whenever I don't have a spark on a Morini, I'll start by pulling all the green wires from the panel and connecting the alternator output straight to the ignition boxes. This eliminates any faulty switches.

The AC output of the alternator is between the two Yellow wires. If you're seeing battery voltage on the yellow wires with respect to ground, then that could just be leakage current. A digital meter can have in an input impeadance of 10 Megaohm. For electrical test work, an old low impeadance analogue meter, or a digital meter with a Low-Z setting can be much less misleading.

You could have a shorted diode, rather than an open one. The Morini regulator is a controlled recifier, it turns the diodes (SCR/Thyristors) on and off to control charging. Most regulators shunt the excess energy to ground, burning it off as heat.

[ApriliaRSVR]

Thank you for all of your replies and input here.

Unfortantely. the (RED) wire from alternator gives the output (YELLOW) wires (12V) as soon as the red wire gets connected to pin.
There are 1 (RED) / 2 (YELLOW) / 1 (GREEN) / 1 (WHITE) wires coming out of alternator.

I will try all said suggestions to try to elimate the defected part or rule something out ie: eliminate ignition switch

[EVguru]

Ok, you have the earlier split phase alternator, not the later single phase.

With the correct regulator for a split-phase alternator, rectification happens on the ground side and the red (centre tap) goes to battery, so of course you'll see battery voltage on either yellow.

Can you show a picture of your regulator?


The ignition systems is seperate from the other electrics.

[72degrees]

Ah, I vaguely remember a white wire on my K2, which I think is an earth correct?

Do all the electric start pre Kokusan models use that later regulator?
The one that looks like this?
http://www.motomoriniclub.nl/regelaar2.jpg

I can't remember what it looked like on my 87 K2, just that I spent an hour or two in a French hotel car park finding a combination of early/late transducers and pickup that would give two cylinders to get me home with the spare ones (early I had presciently borrowed off the 2C/375).

Your strategy of cutting out the middleman wiring and going straight from the green to transducers is definitely the best one in this scenario.

[ApriliaRSVR]

This is the reg Rec that was with the bike. See attachment link

http://m.ebay.fr/itm/252418919536?_mwBanner=1

[ApriliaRSVR]

Also would anyone be able to help me on HOW I should properly bypass other electrics in order to get a spark. (Wiring for Eliminating Process).

[72degrees]

Also would anyone be able to help me on HOW I should properly bypass other electrics in order to get a spark. (Wiring for Eliminating Process).

Disconnect all the alternator wires under the side cover. Make up a connection from the green one to run direct to one of the transducers (Green (verde) connection). That will do just to see if you get a spark on that one transducer's HT lead/plug. A male spade crimp-on connector on one end and female on the other, on a suitably long length of spare wire. On a 250 it's easier because the transducers are down by the reg/rec. On 350s they are usually under the tank so the stator green cable won't reach without an extension. If you do, then the ignition switch/circuit isn't at fault.
It's been 20 years since I had a K2 though so I may be misremembering - like the extra white wire and different reg/rec. Your photo is certainly not of the very earliest type of those but Evguru will advise. Watch his fault finding video and Sorens guide on Youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... i+ignition