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Yes, your bike does sound like it is not right. I'd sell it and buy one which behaves like a normal Morini.

Back to the original problem, does the guy try and fix the clutch or live with it? I've lost track!

I've got a few Morini's and I've had this problem on two of them, on the 501 engined 350 it was cured by new clutch plates, on a 350 it was cured by a new clutch lever, the old one having worn it's pivot point oval. With five of the things I can select neutral from a standstill on all of them, perhaps I should really be worried. After 50 years of Velocette ownership perhaps I just find the Morini clutch simplicity itself to set up.

Yes change to a cable operated master cylinder and a pivoting caliper.That always makes for an exhilarating ride.

3potjohn wrote:Yes change to a cable operated master cylinder and a pivoting caliper.That always makes for an exhilarating ride.

I could fit the one I took off my BMW...

On second thoughts, no.

It was a hot day today and as I rode home I consciously tried selecting neutral (from first) when stationary whenever possible.

I found neutral nearly every time, but you do need to feel for the second detent. Just occasionally it wouldn't select neutral on the first attempt.

I think part of the problem is the finish on the selector pawls. They're punched from something like 5mm plate and the finish left as is. The Darts always seemed to be better, but I've not compared the selectors.

Clutch drag does come into it and you need the greatest possible separation in the plates, in other words, the maximum clutch travel. There are a couple of things that might improve this. First, ignore the 15mm figure for adjusting the release arm and instead go for the minimum clearance you can without the arm contacting the outer case (1-2mm). You need to keep an eye on this clearance, as it closes up as the clutch wears. The pad on the clutch release arm that bears on the pushrod wears down. Building this pad back up restores a more favourable leverage and you get more clutch travel for the same lever movement.

Thanks for all the replies and pointers .
Before I begin I need to clear my bench of several other Italian bikes .
Problem with having more than one bike is the niggles with them are like buses all together or nothing .

Mikey

EVguru wrote: think part of the problem is the finish on the selector pawls. They're punched from something like 5mm plate and the finish left as is. The Darts always seemed to be better, but I've not compared the selectors.

Not forgetting the selector drum stopper plate. Having disturbed mine on the hill climb engine I think I got it back in to its original position using reference marks, but it's hard to check without special tool 008 (which NLM have). Then in the deep recesses of my memory I'm pretty sure that both 350s I owned from new could be finicky in finding neutral. Perhaps MickeyMoto has the right of it - you don't notice slight neutral finding issues on other bikes when you have an idiot light to assist

72degrees wrote: Perhaps MickeyMoto has the right of it

That'll be a first...

Check out Soren's page at http://morinist.dk/morini/tornerose12.php for what looks to be a nifty tool to sort this without cutting up a crankcase, tempting to get the club to get some made.

SupermotoDave wrote:Check out Soren's page at http://morinist.dk/morini/tornerose12.php for what looks to be a nifty tool to sort this without cutting up a crankcase, tempting to get the club to get some made.

Cool. I have a sheet of dural plate left from making the engine mounting plates for the Rotarini (nearly 30 years ago). I fear my measuring, scribing and drilling skills aren't up to it but, in these days of CAD & CNC it shouldn't be that big a task for a small engineering shop with the right equipment.

First, find an engineering shop. Spotty youf does not want dirty hands, messes up the screen on the mobile.

MickeyMoto wrote:First, find an engineering shop. Spotty youf does not want dirty hands, messes up the screen on the mobile.

Good point, but I suspect there are several within a few miles of me, this area being the former home of AJS, Sunbeam and Villiers (plus NVT for a while). There is actually one that mentions 'one-offs' on their website. Then, I may even 'know a man who can'. Enquiries will be made.

72degrees wrote:

SupermotoDave wrote:Check out Soren's page at http://morinist.dk/morini/tornerose12.php for what looks to be a nifty tool to sort this without cutting up a crankcase, tempting to get the club to get some made.

Cool. I have a sheet of dural plate left from making the engine mounting plates for the Rotarini (nearly 30 years ago). I fear my measuring, scribing and drilling skills aren't up to it but, in these days of CAD & CNC it shouldn't be that big a task for a small engineering shop with the right equipment.

I recently had two of those tools made - one is surplus to my needs and I'll sell it to anyone that wants it.

Try Lasermaster https://www.lasermaster.co.uk/ and copy the drawing as a jpg/png to them - never used them but seems a simple way to get some bits and pieces made.

EVguru wrote:Clutch drag does come into it and you need the greatest possible separation in the plates, in other words, the maximum clutch travel. There are a couple of things that might improve this. First, ignore the 15mm figure for adjusting the release arm and instead go for the minimum clearance you can without the arm contacting the outer case (1-2mm). You need to keep an eye on this clearance, as it closes up as the clutch wears. The pad on the clutch release arm that bears on the pushrod wears down. Building this pad back up restores a more favourable leverage and you get more clutch travel for the same lever movement.

Paul I have this problem with my bike at the minute. Basically I am unable to get a good angle on the clutch release arm and I suspected that this was because of the wear on the pressed dimple that pushes in the operating rod. Mine is worn a little and if I adjust so that the arm is just clear of the outer case there is not enough travel to properly disengage the clutch. Can I ask Paul, in your experience, if the outer case had been pressing just slightly on the arm and therefore pressing on the rod, could this cause the bike to pull out of gear during high revs? (something which has happened to me).

If I adjust the lever so that it is just clear of the case liek you say, then my clutch cable appears to be too long, even when the handlebar adjuster is used.