Lights issue

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3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

It had to happen eventually as the wiring loom is 38 years old. Out dodging the hail today and noticed the blue lights on and main beam idiot lights came on briefly at about 4000 rpm . I should say my ignition switch was one I got from NLM and has 3 positions Off, ignition on, ign and lights on. I had the switch in position 2, ignition only but had the headlamp on via the left handlebar switch. Not quite standard. I have tried cleaning the handlebar switch and wiggling the wiring but have not reproduced the fault whilst stationary so it might be related to the vibration frequency on the road albeit minimal. Tomorrow it looks like tank off time and a bit of studying my colour wiring diagram.
nicko
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Sep 2011 20:29
Location: Salisbury Wilts
Location: Salisbury, UK

Re: Lights issue

Post by nicko »

When you say "briefly" are you talking a flash, seconds or minutes?
3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Re: Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

Sometimes for a second sometimes a bit longer. Does anyone know if I do decide to disassemble the left hand switch, this is the type with 2 rocker light switches, indicators, horn and headlamp flash, will a load of springs and ball bearings shoot out?
I am very familiar with BMW handlebar switchgear where the usual technique is to work inside a large clear bag, but it is still a SOB getting some switches back together.
Anyway first things first,tank off and some judicious waggling. Luckily I have a spare loom (1982) so can lay this out as a guide.
In an ideal world I could have a go at making a new one I guess as I have plenty of terminals and wiring from VWP in stock.
John
MickeyMoto
Posts: 2415
Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
Location: Even further oop North

Re: Lights issue

Post by MickeyMoto »

3PJ,

As you have a non standard ignition switch (mine has off, park and on) why not change the light switch for a more modern Morini one from an Excalibur?
3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Re: Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

In this glorious sunshine ( well a bit anyway) I investigated the lights problem.I had found that the hi beam warning light was coming on intermittently and that this coincided with no headlight.Parking light was fine as was rear light. No amount of waggling the wiring could reproduce the fault.Removing the tank I looked at the wiring running to the left of the headstock. Whether it is supposed to be this horrible from new I do not know but the routing is questionable.
When the tank is fitted it was rubbing through a white wire. I cut this wire which eliminated the headlight. Good.
I used "japanese connectors" and insulators as per VWP then wrapped the lot in self amalgamating tape. Tried to cable tie the offending looms against the frame. Better but still not a thing of beauty.
Problem resolved.A month before MOT time too. It would have been interesting in the dark.
If anyone with a K1 has a photo of their wiring routing I would be glad to see one.
3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Re: Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

Still have an issue with an intermittent flickering hi beam warning when the dip is on. Seems to relate to an engine harmonic but cannot make it happen except on the road.
If I do decide to disassemble the left hand CEV switch will I expect to see a ball bearing fly out when I
undo the 2 body screws or any other gotcha? Usual methods involve a large clear bag in which to work.
I have had post 71 BSA switches apart back in the day and am VERY familiar with the Hella switchgear as fitted to 70s BMW where there is a SOB indicator switch to assemble.
dunk 1
Posts: 208
Joined: 25 Oct 2007 18:16
Location: cumbria

Re: Lights issue

Post by dunk 1 »

Hello John -just had mine apart to rewire - there is nothing to ping out - no ball bearings or hidden springs, at least there wasn't on mine. Just be careful the plastic side panel clips have long since disappeared on mine and there are plastic locating pins between the top switches that are very fragile. there is a small wire that is folded in to the gap between the two top switches and joins them. The top switches that contain the lights have some very close solder contacts where the wires could easily run over each other and short if the sleeve have pulled back from the joint - this could be your problem.
I think mine are is so fragile now that it might not take another strip-down in fact I half expected my wiring to be practice for getting a new one and doing it again, but it has gone back together although not checked with a battery yet as I have to sort the cobbled together mess created by PO's in the headlight/instrument area.
hope that helps - Duncan
dunk
3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Re: Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

Thanks for this info. Have removed the switch assembly from its backing bracket and simple cleaned and worked the switches. The wiring “looks” ok. I wrapped a bit of self amalgamating tape around the clip-on where it all bolts together. I waggled and tapped the wiring and headlight and looked inside the headlamp again. I guess I will revisit the wiring under the tank / headstock area as it is suspicious both in terms of potential rubbing and flexing.
It’s so bright in the day I cannot be sure if the actual H4 bulb is also reacting or is it just the telltale light? Will attempt a test post sundown. Guess I better mug up on how the wiring loom is connected. I am assuming there is a hot feed to the switch then separate wiring for dip and main so to my way of thinking any fault must be post switch. I know that wiring is not my strongest area but am OK replacing worn out wire bit by bit, correct colour codes a must.
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themoudie
Posts: 132
Joined: 13 Jan 2007 21:24
Location: Perthshire

Re: Lights issue

Post by themoudie »

Aye John (3PJ),

Do you have any further updates or info on the left-hand handlebar lighting switch on the K1, please? From your description I assume that it is the same as that fitted to my 1986 K2? My switch is a 'CEV 206', this is moulded in the plastic case on the right hand side above the handlebar.

Out last night, the dipped beam shone like a glow worm and the main beam warning light glowed like a glow worm at the same time! Switched to main beam, which shone brightly and the main beam warning light shone brightly. I usually ride during the day using an yellow/orange LED bulb in the parking light holder. This was working OK.

Arrived home, after some interesting riding along country roads, with tractors and trailers laden with 12 full tattie boxes at 40mph+ coming in the opposite direction, chucking mud, flashing more beacons than Hartland Point and lit up with LED everything and probably guided by GPS, whilst the driver texted the girl friend and ordered pizza from 'Lets Eat'! LETHAL! :evil:

Once home, I was able to replicate the dimmed dipped beam, dimmed main beam indicator light shining and the parking light also came on! Main beam remained main beam only and bright as did the warning light. It would appear that there is a partial short in the handlebar switch between the headlight feeds?

I note from earlier in this thread that there are no 'jack in the box' extras, or ball bearings to chase across the floor, like quick silver! :twisted: But, the plastics are "fragile" and there are fine plastic pins. My electrickery skills are not that good but I can solder, have access to a good stock of VWP bits and would use the same as yoursel' to fix connections or splice wires in, if necessary. Once into the guts of the switch, if I find a real horror, I will have to purchase a replacement 'CEV 206' switch. Ducati used these as well and I see that at this time MdinaItalia have some in stock £117-02 inc VAT + P&P & VAT on the postage that's a 120% mark up on Italian prices that include P&P! :wink:

There is also a thread on the Moto Morini 500 board, with a single post in it that is very useful. :D Link:http://www.morini-riders-club.com/forum ... ?f=7&t=277

I am not sure how to link across within the forum, if someone else knows and can do it, please do and explain how you do it. Thank you.

Thank you for your time.

Good health, BillR
MickeyMoto
Posts: 2415
Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
Location: Even further oop North

Re: Lights issue

Post by MickeyMoto »

There is a 206 on ebay at the moment.

Moto Morini handlebar switch item number 184432882811
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themoudie
Posts: 132
Joined: 13 Jan 2007 21:24
Location: Perthshire

Re: Lights issue

Post by themoudie »

Good morning MickeyMoto,

Thank you for the notification. The seller (Mark2cv and of this forum on the 250 2C board) also has some other useful items from breaking a 1983 Moto Morini 250 2C.

Good health, Bill
3potjohn
Posts: 1243
Joined: 02 Jun 2007 13:58
Location: Devon

Re: Lights issue

Post by 3potjohn »

Having blasted the switchgear with electrical cleaner then some lubricant spray the problem has gone away...for now..
John
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themoudie
Posts: 132
Joined: 13 Jan 2007 21:24
Location: Perthshire

Re: Lights issue

Post by themoudie »

Aye John,

Thank you for your reply.

You are lucky! I thought that I should check the headlight bulb and the wiring within the shell first, just in case the bulb or it's holder were causing the problem. A true rats nest of chopped wires, slack crimped connectors, tap connectors and random coloured wires! :evil:

I intend to start a new thread, with a specific title ("1986 K2 light switch, headlight, wiring issues") rather than clutter this thread in that case.

Good health, BillR
AndrewW
Posts: 38
Joined: 04 May 2011 19:25
Location: London, UK

Re: Lights issue

Post by AndrewW »

There are a lot of dodgy LED Replacement bulbs out there. I fitted one from Paul Goff and it’s fine. Bright and good pattern

http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyWhyNotLEDs.htm

Regarding brakes, my 350 has a floating disk, Brembo caliper and m/cylinder and it stops really well! It’s also got switchgear from a Suzuki GT380 which is a useful fit as it has all the Switches for lights, indicators and horn in the one unit. Switchgear from some fire blades also can be used, but is a plastic housing rather than metal as on the Suzuki
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