New CEV ignition switch

[tobydmv]

Does anyone have a diagram of the CEV ignition switch? I was going to fit a new one and noticed the back of the switch has terminals that are numbered. These numbers should translate to a color but I cant seem to find it. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Before you suggest use the existing switch well i'm not sure it was wired correctly and need to verify.
Thanks,
Toby

[tobydmv]

Egads, this is close:
http://www.motomoriniclub.nl/350-5-pole.jpg

Is there a 6 pole diagram? My bike is 1980 w e-start, both switches have 6 poles. Sorry guys, found it here http://morinist.dk/morini/blaabog.pdf

Hope everyone is safe and still riding. I'm using this downtime for maintenance and fixing.

[George 350]

Hi,
From the original Harglo book:
1 =red, 2= brown. This is the main on/off for the electrical system. Connected only when key is turned clockwise to key retained position.
3= green, 4= blue. These are the ones that allow the engine to run (earth's out ignition supply from flywheel) connected only in centre and anti clockwise key can be removed positions.
5 =yellow, 6= yellow/black. These are the sidelight/tail light supply. Connected when key is in anti clockwise position. (Side lights on when parked).
Hope this helps,
George.

[tobydmv]

Hi,
From the original Harglo book:
1 =red, 2= brown. This is the main on/off for the electrical system. Connected only when key is turned clockwise to key retained position.
3= green, 4= blue. These are the ones that allow the engine to run (earth's out ignition supply from flywheel) connected only in centre and anti clockwise key can be removed positions.
5 =yellow, 6= yellow/black. These are the sidelight/tail light supply. Connected when key is in anti clockwise position. (Side lights on when parked).
Hope this helps,
George.

Hi George, I think your statement aligns with the manual I have which shows 3 phases to the key switch, i'll add clock terms/times to help me
A - OFF ( 12:00 )
B - PARKING LIGHT ( 1:00 )
C - IGNITION ON ( 11:00 )
THing is, my bike has never started from position C. Its always started from B, which has always had me curious. I just verified the key switch is wired correctly but i'm wondering if something is reversed somewhere else. I checked the brown wire at the regulator and it comes on at position B which aligns with what you shared (1/red and 2/brown connected). But that seems odd, why do we need regulated voltage when the bike isnt running?

The reason I replaced the ignition switch is my battery keeps dying and the charging system isnt working. I noticed when replacing the switch the red and brown terminal covers were blistered, like a short or something over heated them. I also noticed that without the bike running I read 12v at the yellow wires on the voltage regulator. Which if I follow the wiring diagram makes sense due to the red wire from stator coils going to red battery terminals that are always on. Seems to odd to me but i'm not a mechanic....Maybe the later electric start bikes have different key positions?

[George 350]

Hi Toby,
On my pre electric start bikes with the original 6 pole switches, the key positions are:
A (12:00) Off - key removable
B (11:00) Parking lights - key removable
C (1:00) Running - key retained
The above are all when looking at the key.
Sorry but have no knowledge of any of the other switches.
Regards, George

[tobydmv]

Hi Toby,
On my pre electric start bikes with the original 6 pole switches, the key positions are:
A (12:00) Off - key removable
B (11:00) Parking lights - key removable
C (1:00) Running - key retained
The above are all when looking at the key.
Sorry but have no knowledge of any of the other switches.
Regards, George

Hi George, thanks for sharing your bikes setup. It appears that my electric start bike setup is the same. Maybe the manual is written for non e-start bikes.

Off topic, I may use the good exchange rate to get some silencers from Armour. I think this is the lowest exchange rate in a long time. Stay safe!

[Stubaker58]

I’m very pleased with my Armours silencers. They supplied mine unpolished, for a slight discount, as I have painted them black (Plasticote BBQ paint). I had to cut the the left hand pipe extension off the down pipe and thin out the bolt heads/nuts so they would fit in the brackets on the silencers, otherwise an easy fit.
Not quite black chrome but looking pretty good!

[tobydmv]

STudebaker, any videos? I'd love to hear what they sound like.

[Sicxtyone]

Off piste a little from ignition switches! sorry. But as exhaust paint was mentioned earlier. Is the plasticote bbq paint a tried and tested product?
Interested to know of this and any other recommend exhaust coatings,suitable for especially down pipes as the black chrome has long gone! And I'd like to reuse rather than replace.
Powdercoat, stove enamel, any one gone down the ceramic coating route?
Thoughts, ideas please
Regards Graham.

[Ming]

Re high temp paints - I've used a matt black barbecue / stove paint on a Suzuki DR350 exhaust system and a Peugeot scooter system with good results. Both stand up to use well. It was bought from a DIY Supermarket over here in France and applied as per instructions. Also available in silver.

[Stubaker58]

Ill try and post a video later.

[3potjohn]

I used to use a paint called Sperex on my very pretty 1973 A65 exhausts and silencers but as that was in 1976 I dare say you cannot get it anymore. Knowing me if I did get stainless pipes to replace my black chrome sitos and paid out for ceramic coating I’d scratch it in no time. I did the old fill them up with oil trick on the Morini Sitos so they have lasted well so far.