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I drained the forkls today, the best thing I can say about what came out is that at least it was liquid.

I'm trying to figure out how the new oil is poured in. The fork caps have a small slot headed screw in the centre which I removed before draining. Does the new oil go in via the pretty small hole, or should I remove the caps and if so what tool is used? It looks as though a large hex key would do the job, but the socket looks more complex than a normal key.

Hi Andy.
If it's the Socket cap then it's nominally 12mm.
A regular 12mm Allen key it should be fine.
I made a snug fit by grinding a 1/2 inch AF Allen key.
A dodge is to use the outside of an imperial box spanner.
Do jack up the bike so there is no compression on the forks.Take care the nuts are quite soft.
the great fork oil weight and quantity debate will be along shortly stand by...
Cheers.
Mark

About 200ccm forkoil o ATF. Normaly I use SAE 15, but with the Paioli fork of the drumbrake to me it seems to be too hard and I changed it to SAE10. That depends on eberybodies preference.

Thanks, I'll hunt down the right size key and go gently.

I have some 15w oil ready to go in - not based on any science but needed some anyway for another bike

The SAE oil specs are so broad that one manufacturers 10W can be less viscous than anothers 5W.

Better fork oil brands will state an actual viscosity (in centistrokes mostly) so you ca actually make a valid comparison.

Firstly make sure you undo the top yoke clamps, will make undoing fork cap a lot easier, secondly if you put copper slip on fork cap threads When replacing it will stop it galling, I then ,using a palm wrench, apply pressure but turning anti-clockwise wait for the “click” as the cap drops into the start of the thread then start doing up, prevents cross threading. Jason

Thanks Jason. The caps although a bit chewed up came out fairly smoothly once I used a longer allen key. I smeared some fork oil on the threads but might go in again a use copper slip.....