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Hi Folks, would really appreciate some help here.
Just before NLM closed its doors I decided to future proof the ignition system for my '77 350 Sport and bought a complete system from NLM, Cdi, coils and pick up unit. I fitted the Cdi and coils a while back but have had a few abortive attempts at fitting the pick up unit and actually getting it to work. I've reverted to the original pick up unit until now. So, previous weekend, oil change, new spark plugs and 2nd or 3rd kick the bike fires up and runs. This weekend I fit the NLM pick up unit and like my previous attempts, nothing, don't think there's a spark at all. The instructions advise that the gap between the rotor and switches needs to be 0.1mm (4 thou I think in old money) and I reckon the gap on mine is well above this. I have some brass shimming offcut which I use to check the gap.
Has anyone any experience of successfully fitting this system ?
If you have to adjust the switches on their back plate to get the gap to 0.1mm, how do you do that as the unit appears not to have any adjustment capability ?
I'm sure I've made a fundamental mistake somewhere, but not sure what !
When I work out how to upload a picture I shall add one of the pick up unit if that helps. Thanks.

I have made one work. The air gap between the rotor and coil has to be 0.05mm (2thou) or less to get a spark. I got nothing at 0.1mm as per the instructions. I bought brass feeler gauges from RS Components but a cigarette paper (Rizla) should do (about 1.5 thou). The coils can be moved on the back plate by loosening the two securing nuts. It is very fiddly as the gap tends to change on tightening the nuts. Also the gaps have to be reset if the back plate is moved to adjust ignition timing as the back plate doesn't appear to be a close tolerance fit in the casing. Will probably require a faster kick than the original pickup but works well when you get it to work.

A search for NLM Pickup, NLM Performance Pickup or No Sparks will find more about experiences with the NLM Pickup.

Hope this helps

I also had to elongate the adjustment slots to reduce the clearance sufficiently. I was still unimpressed and have reverted to an OEM red type II pickup with NLM module and conventional coils.

Thanks very much Chaps, much appreciated, it certainly does help. A bit disappointing considering how much it cost, naively I expected it to work with no or minimal fettling.
I shall have a go at reducing the gap from what it is as standard which is way too big. I have some more brass shimming, not sure if it's 0.05 mm but I will either resort to a Rizla, or buy some brass feeler gauges if need be.
It does look a fiddly job, one to raise the blood pressure !

I had one on a 350/501 special, had it set up by Alex because I couldn't reliably start the bike, still no better, it needs a really fast kick to get the bike to go, with the 501 engine, I couldn't spin it fast enough, got it set up by a well known auto electrician/ morini person, same result. The design is nearly there but not quite. I went back to the standard setup, and it's an easy starter with no discernable loss of performance. It cost me hundreds of pounds to find that out.

To add to the others, I too had to elongate the slots and felt that the 'rotor' was not high enough. Mine does work, but as Jon says you have to give a fast kick.
Now my Norton is going once more, I will be having a go at making a spigot to locate the plate in the cam seal bore like the original ones did, and hopefully this will make the adjustment less painful. I haven't done this up to now as having got it working I don't want to disturb it!
As I've said on another post on this subject, it is so nearly good but let down so badly in the final details to make it a 'I wish I hadn't bothered' item.

A recent and unwelcome discovery I had while doing the air filters was that the CDI bracket on mine had started to eat it's way into the tank! Have now modified that so it cant do that again but it is worth checking your tank!
Regards, George

Thanks again, I shall have a look at the unit this coming weekend and see where best to modify it to reduce the gap. Definitely disappointed with it, especially if if needs a faster kick than my creaky knees allow, but I'll worry about that after I get the gap right. Unfortunately, I've been chasing an intermittent misfire for a while now and wanted to rule out the ignition as a culprit, otherwise I'd stay with the original red pickup. I shall have a look at the underside of the tank too. I have the NLM Cdi and coils fitted and everything looks OK but will double check.

What part of the country do you live in? Quite a few owners have got spare pick ups you might be able to borrow and try?
I'm in Northampton and can do just that.

George

Also had to file the slots and adjust pick up gap/setting to get my NLM system to work properly. Could really do with more filing to get the timing spot on. Agree for the price a more accurately machined/manufactured set of parts should have been possible. Some of the other options out there may have been a better choice possibly - but I'll stick with what I have at present - it works (now)!
Starts easily now but does need a good fast kick. Even idles well.......

More ignition wonderfulness in the next ATG, at the printer now!

Thanks George, appreciate the offer, I'm in Derbyshire so not a million miles away. But first, I'm determined to make the NLM unit work. I've removed the switches and had a few trial fittings and it looks like I should be able to elongate the holes in the switch mounting plates to move the switches right up to the lip and contact the rotor !
That should be close enough. The 1 thou air gap will make me a bit nervous though as there's no margin for any untoward movement.
I was searching for some brass feeler gauges and they were looking a tad expensive, but I may have found a cheaper solution, I think. I ordered a brass shim set from Hobbies.co.uk at about £6 posted, OK you have to cut your shapes but look good value and by the sound of it will get used a lot in setting up the ignition afterwards.

GZV.(odd name that?)
Its not 1 thou clearance, its 0.1mm, or 4 thou in old money that you need to aim for. Using brass feelers makes it easier as they don't stick to the magnets.
What I found annoying is that as soon as you slackened the screws to adjust the timing, the clearances were all over the place as the 'spigot' welded to the backplate is 0.6mm smaller than the cam bore. I ended up using a couple of turns of leftover pinstripe from the tank respray wound around the spigot to at least restrict the unwanted movement, and it worked. Electrical tape would do the same job, but you would need to cut it into thin strips.
Set up and timed I do have the same timing for each cylinder, which was the objective.
Good luck,
George.

Don't like to contradict other posters, my experience and several others is that the NLM pickup will not work at 0.1mm as stated in the instructions. It will work at 0.05mm ( 2 thou) or slightly less with a faster kick than with the standard pickup. As stated steel feelers stick to the magnets and it becomes very difficult to set the clearance, hence the use of brass feelers or shim. At 1 thou there is a danger of the rotor touching the pickup coils. Try 0.1mm and if it works good oh, if not try 0.05mm.

I would like to ask a favour,
could anybody post some pictures of an NLM pick-up please?
Thank you ,
Paolo

not good at uploading photos... hope this is clear enough