Clutch refit issues

[martinaccarter]

Hello All

I've just put a new clutch in my '77 Strada closely following PC's Youtube video. However, I have a couple of problems and I would love to hear people's views on how I can resolve them:

1. The clutch cable is only a year old and has covered 1500 miles. With the new clutch the lever at the handlebar has a good 1/2 inch of play in it even with the outer cable fully adjusted to maximum length. There was play there before but much less. I imagine that I'll have to shorten the cable a few mill?

2. On selecting gear there is quite a crunch (there was no crunch before) and although the clutch doesn't bite immediately ie there is absolutely no drag, when the clutch does start to bite I can't smoothly engage the gear. Even from 4/5k revs, the engine stalls with just a further millimetre of clutch release. Just to confirm I am trying to engage first, not second gear. I carefully inserted the plates with the half-friction plate first followed by the convex plate facing outwards. The convex plate, to be honest, is hardly convex and I don't know if this is normal

The only other change I have made to the previous set up is I have added a second shim behind the clutch basket as it was very tight on the drum before. I wonder how tight it should be and whether this could be the problem?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be very welcome

Cheers

Martin

[72degrees]

One dodge is a slotted spacer inserted betwixt outer cable and adjuster. Or if a real bodger an old socket of just the right diameter. With slotted cable nipples it can be slipped in to place first. Many replacement cables have solid drum nipples though.

Sure the 'short' clutch pushrod hasn't gone AWOL?

Have you adjusted the play at the actuating arm on the crankcase first with the screw and locknut? The convex plate should be significantly convex. There is a comparison photo somewhere on the site I think. The basket should spin freely but with no perceptible in and out play. The kit that Benji used to supply had a selection of shim thicknesses. A case of finding a combination to achieve the desired result. Not as high tech with Vernier and feeler gauges as doing valve shims, but worth getting 'just so'.

On the Forgotten Error, that had all new plates I never did get it as sweet as the other engine. I used to swap the stacks. Maybe the secret was that on the road 375 the friction plates were actually 'mildly moist' from historic seal failures. With the wee vee spring assisters a bit of oil is not a slippage issue

[martinaccarter]

Many thanks that's very useful info. I hadn't looked at adjusting the clutch cable at the crankcase end so I'll do that next. You mention whether the clutch pushrod has gone AWOL and I don't think it has - the mushroom/pressure plate lifter is operating correctly and I imagine it wouldn't move if there were no pushrod behind it - I think that's correct but can you confirm?

Thanks

Martin

[72degrees]

I meant the pushrod that the actuating arm pushes. The first one is quite short. You are right though that the mushroom would not move at all if the first rod is absent. At least no ball bearing to lose as on some engines.

[martinaccarter]

Thanks again. I think I need to get a new convex steel plate from somewhere...

[3potjohn]

Any progress adjusting the clutch actuating arm at the engine? I had to shorten an inner once following a new clutch pack installation.

[72degrees]

Thanks again. I think I need to get a new convex steel plate from somewhere...

Seek and ye shall find:

https://www.morini-riders-club.com/foru ... f=4&t=5409

[martinaccarter]

Any progress adjusting the clutch actuating arm at the engine? I had to shorten an inner once following a new clutch pack installation.

Yes thanks I've managed to adjust everything via a combination both at the actuating arm and at the handlebar. Clutch still not working though - simply grabs and the revs die and the engine stalls

[martinaccarter]

Thanks again. I think I need to get a new convex steel plate from somewhere...

Seek and ye shall find:

https://www.morini-riders-club.com/foru ... f=4&t=5409

Thanks. Now that convex plate is somewhat more convex than mine!! I'm not sure if the smaller diameter of the convex plate faces out to the pavement effectively or faces in to the engine. I have tried both positions with an identical result - clutch just grabs. I wonder if it could be the mixing of the original Surflex steel plates and Ferodo friction plates

[3potjohn]

When I got one Morini the clutch lacked much feel. I have only been used to friction plates being of a dark colour but these had bright alloy plates with the friction material not looking too worn out.
Putting an old rather worn set in from some I had previously removed from another Morini improved things completely. Since then I replaced this clutch with similar new items via Mdinaitalia. So both Morinis have identical clutch packs.
Clutch hub shimmed on both, not overshimmed though. You should be able to turn the hub in the basket without it feeling in anyway tight before replacing the plates. I am careful to polish off any burrs on the plates.
I should still have my used clutch pack on the shelf BTW
Good luck.
John

[70sbikes]

Another "bodge" is to buy a long aluminium hex head bolt, drill it all the way through, and cut a slot with a dremel. I had to do this on my 3 1/2 Sport and my Honda CB350 Four as the available clutch cables were all way too long!

[martinaccarter]

Thanks for your very interesting and helpful responses. I'm going to try and get hold of some 'new' steel plates and see where we go from there

[3potjohn]

I used that selfsame cable adjuster bodge......on my old Atco mower.