Please help me make sense of the Kanguro X3 wiring

Camel, Sahara, Kanguro, Coguaro

Please help me make sense of the Kanguro X3 wiring

Postby julianharty » 06 Jun 2017 07:54

I recently bought an X3 Kanguro, and it worked for a week or so. Then it simply stopped running when I flipped the choke off (on the rear, right carb) when it was warming up. I wouldn't start again. First I thought it might be out of fuel as I'd run it nearly dry. However more fuel didn't help. When I eventually took the plugs out to see if it has a spark, neither cylinder has a spark.

Before I go into details, please can anyone help me understand what the wiring of an X3 should be e.g. is it pure 12V electrics? Mine has grey transducers with a bulge, presumably for an uprated coil (that look like the NRC-30 here http://www.motomoriniclub.nl/tech.html#table).

I've followed links here and on Google but can't find the relevant wiring diagram. The closest I've found are:

Mine's had some modifications to the wiring by the previous owner who replaced the instruments with a modern combined unit made by Vapor. They moved the ignition switch to the right of the Vapor unit. The headlight and indicators have also been replaced with a smaller custom unit that includes the indicators. I discovered there was some damage in the 9-way connector where the socket for the high-beam connection is partly missing, but the rest of the wiring doesn't have obvious problems. The bike has modern switch gear (black with orange text labelling the switches) and a 4-pole connector from the RH switch gear that contains the kill switch and the starter button.

There are some seemingly odd connectors e.g. one that has 4 violet (or light purple) wires in series to connect all 4 poles. I've found 3 fuses (all inline on wires) so far, a relay, a diode on the green wire to the transducers (it's used in series i.e. the connection goes through the diode). I'm prepared to slowly make sense of the wiring however I'm hoping some of you will help me find the problem(s) with the starting and also make sense of the wiring sooner than if I have to do it all solo.

Oh and I've found the trouble-shooting videos that Søren Hansen and Paul Compton have posted a great help, however I still need to translate how to apply these to the X3 and it's later wiring and transducers.
julianharty
 
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Joined: 15 May 2016 16:34

Re: Please help me make sense of the Kanguro X3 wiring

Postby MickeyMoto » 06 Jun 2017 08:50

Hi Julian,

The X3 (large tank) was purely 12 volt. The ignition should be the same as any other Ducati Eletronica bike. Check the magneto coil (white wire?) and check no earth on wire etc. Maybe the kill switch needs checking? Open circuit to start closed circuit to stop?

Mike.
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Location: T'North

Re: Please help me make sense of the Kanguro X3 wiring

Postby julianharty » 06 Jun 2017 15:44

Mike thank you for the info.

Thanks also to Chris of NLM for his suggestions (which included checking the timing belt was still in one piece in case the pickups weren't being triggered when the engine turned - a useful tip of something that might seem obvious to others...).

Here's what I've got to so far.
    * The bike has custom wiring (blue replacing the green wire from the stator and bright orange that's connected to the white wires for the transducers). This isn't the only change, but a particularly interesting / quirky one in terms of testing.
    * The ignition coil in the stator reads around 278 Ohms, and generates around 78V AC when the engine's turned over by the electric start (with a well charged mammoth battery).
    * If I disconnect the LH (front) transducer from the pairs of wires (the green and the white) then I get a weak spark on the rear brand-new plug.
    * It's hard to tell if I get a spark on either cylinder with both transducers connected. What I do notice is the resistance reduces to around 24 Ohms with both transducers connected, 278 Ohms with only the RH connected. (I didn't end up checking what it read with only the LH connected).

The green spade connector to the RH transducer is missing part of the connector. The connections had some powder, or dirt, that came off when I disconnected the wires from the LH transducer. The battery strap has perished.

Based on what I found I decided it'd do no harm to clean up the connections, the transducers, and the earthing, as a basic electrical hygiene.

I've now removed the battery and the earthing screw on the LH of the headstock. This had around 12 connections run to it! far more than I'd expected. I've removed the transducers and cleaned them externally and checked the condition of the earth wires (that come out of the transducers) and the 4 spade connectors in each. All seems OK so far. I've started tracing the various wires and connections. Tomorrow I hope to map out most of the wiring on paper. I've been videoing what I've seen and taken various photos.

My aim is to get the wiring and electrics fit to cope well with many more years of riding. I've ordered the 9-way housing and pins, and some new wire in various colours (1 sq. mm 18 AWG) to enable me to tidy up bits and pieces as I go. I already have some heatshrink, etc. Here's hoping I manage to find the gremlins. I'll check Mike's suggestions too. Chris had suggested disconnecting the green wire from the ignition switch but that didn't seem practical based on the wiring on the bike. And anyway, now I've seen a spark on the rear cylinder I can't blame the kill switch shorting the connection (entirely at least).

Thanks for your help so far. I'll post updates as they may help others in future with similar issues.
julianharty
 
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 May 2016 16:34

Re: Please help me make sense of the Kanguro X3 wiring

Postby julianharty » 06 Jun 2017 15:44

Mike thank you for the info.

Thanks also to Chris of NLM for his suggestions (which included checking the timing belt was still in one piece in case the pickups weren't being triggered when the engine turned - a useful tip of something that might seem obvious to others...).

Here's what I've got to so far.
    * The bike has custom wiring (blue replacing the green wire from the stator and bright orange that's connected to the white wires for the transducers). This isn't the only change, but a particularly interesting / quirky one in terms of testing.
    * The ignition coil in the stator reads around 278 Ohms, and generates around 78V AC when the engine's turned over by the electric start (with a well charged mammoth battery).
    * If I disconnect the LH (front) transducer from the pairs of wires (the green and the white) then I get a weak spark on the rear brand-new plug.
    * It's hard to tell if I get a spark on either cylinder with both transducers connected. What I do notice is the resistance reduces to around 24 Ohms with both transducers connected, 278 Ohms with only the RH connected. (I didn't end up checking what it read with only the LH connected).

The green spade connector to the RH transducer is missing part of the connector. The connections had some powder, or dirt, that came off when I disconnected the wires from the LH transducer. The battery strap has perished.

Based on what I found I decided it'd do no harm to clean up the connections, the transducers, and the earthing, as a basic electrical hygiene.

I've now removed the battery and the earthing screw on the LH of the headstock. This had around 12 connections run to it! far more than I'd expected. I've removed the transducers and cleaned them externally and checked the condition of the earth wires (that come out of the transducers) and the 4 spade connectors in each. All seems OK so far. I've started tracing the various wires and connections. Tomorrow I hope to map out most of the wiring on paper. I've been videoing what I've seen and taken various photos.

My aim is to get the wiring and electrics fit to cope well with many more years of riding. I've ordered the 9-way housing and pins, and some new wire in various colours (1 sq. mm 18 AWG) to enable me to tidy up bits and pieces as I go. I already have some heatshrink, etc. Here's hoping I manage to find the gremlins. I'll check Mike's suggestions too. Chris had suggested disconnecting the green wire from the ignition switch but that didn't seem practical based on the wiring on the bike. And anyway, now I've seen a spark on the rear cylinder I can't blame the kill switch shorting the connection (entirely at least).

Thanks for your help so far. I'll post updates as they may help others in future with similar issues.
julianharty
 
Posts: 12
Joined: 15 May 2016 16:34


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