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Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 13 Nov 2016 19:10
by Tom
The Eurocarb list says the needle should be positioned on the 3rd position/slot,

but there are 4 slots on the needles, do you have to count from the most lowest (first?) or the highest slot (first?)

Another interesting point is that the two camel 500's that i have, both are using X1 needles in combination with 264T atomiser.

but the Eurocarb list says the Camel will be needing 264 CE atomiser and X8 needles.

From my experience i tend to believe what is on this list is true:

http://www.motomoriniclub.nl/carb.html

Is there somebody who can shine a little bit of light on this one?

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 13 Nov 2016 20:00
by 72degrees
If it's any help, the new PHBH28s I just bought came with the needles on the 'top' notch. So I'm guessing that is the default or 1st position.

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 13 Nov 2016 20:16
by 'It must be a .....'
Hi Tom, count the needle position from the top.
On three 500 Camels I've found 264CE atomisers with either X1(3rd) or X8(4th) needles.
On a couple of I've seen 264T/X1(3rd) & BC264/X8(didn't note position) atomisers/needles yet these bikes were 'well used' with solder blocking one pair of holes in the atomisers (sorry, can't recall which).
One Camel and my 500 5 speed road bike both had 264T atomisers and X1(3rd) needles.
All the bikes ran well! so I would only change things if you are having glitches/problems.

Hope this helps? Enjoy Ian

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 14 Nov 2016 09:09
by Tom
Thanks guys.

Interesting information you have given me Ian.
If a carb worns out you should drop the needle a bit, but if you have seen the X8 on the 4 th slot and not as is should be on the 3rd, you would suspect that it will be running to rich, is this correct?
Either way, i know nothing about the other specifications of this carb, it is of course a combination of factors which decides the location of the needle right, so i will be doing it by book and place the new set up on the 3rd slot.

I had the camel on the 3rd slot with X1 and 260T set up, it was running far to rich, but performance wise this was not noticable, only at the gas station.

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 14 Nov 2016 20:45
by 'It must be a .....'
Hi Tom, The Camels with the X8 needles 4th; one had a more open exhaust and was running weak; I put in X1 needles 3rd slot and larger main jets.
The other was a friend's Camel that had 'carb problems' which I thought was ignition having changed to my carbs etc, yet it turned out to be an out of true (slightly oval, yet balanced) front wheel, where at constant speed/throttle it caused vibration that upset the carbs (hesitation); the vibration was so subtle that the problem took ages to source.
He just left the carbs as they were (4th slot) once the wheel was rebuilt.
I would try 264CE atomisers with X1 needles 3rd slot as a starting point. The X8 has a thicker tapered section than the X1.

Hope this helps, have fun Ian

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 17 Nov 2016 12:51
by Tom
Hello Ian,

Man you have been in the Morini business longer then i am, solving those kind of problems.

two thumps up!

Re: Dellorto PHBH 26BS needle position Camel 500?

Posted: 19 Nov 2016 22:23
by 'It must be a .....'
Hi Tom, as my Camel was running well I just had to be methodical in approach and changed one thing at a time.
With each change my friends bike was always the same; started first kick, accelerated well but hesitated badly at a constant throttle over 45mph.
I added a dedicated ignition earth wire as there was no white wire from the stator (had been converted to 12V) but there no change and by this time his bike had my carbs, ignition, alternator and charging system.
In the end when riding/testing I stopped and disconnected wires behind the side panel so that I was using the ignition circuit in isolation without the ignition switch etc and as the hesitation was still there it had to be something else.
When I got home I checked the wheels carefully and found that the front was slightly oval; I fitted my Camel front wheel and went for a ride and the problem was solved! This all took several weekends as I had to get a friend in Scotland to send me a 12v stator that was known to be fine.
The problem had been driving my friend crazy as he used to be a bike mechanic, but unlike me he didn't have another Camel as a constant/parts source when looking at the problem.
If I failed to get it running right he was going to take it to his friend's rolling road as he was certain it was carburation (he was right of course); but as he pointed out later the front wheel would have been static throughout.