New to me mk1 Camel in OZ.

[SupermotoDave]

Just to make you sad, in this months Bike mag Hugo Wilson visits the Novegro swap meet and buys a NOS mk1 Camel rear guard for 30 euros, photos and everything.
David

[Steve Brown]

Just to make you sad, in this months Bike mag Hugo Wilson visits the Novegro swap meet and buys a NOS mk1 Camel rear guard for 30 euros, photos and everything.
David

Yes, saw that and wept.

[rossguzzi]

Will try to post pics of coils and transducers. Do these look like original or updated ?

[rossguzzi]

Transducers.
Oh, if anyone has a spare swingarm spindle nut they don't want....
It if the size and thread can given to me I will try and sore one here.
Cheers.

[Steve Brown]

Aha!, those are the replacement transducer/cdi from NLM (North Leicester Motorcycles) and the ones I have on my 350 Sport. I think they are an improvement on the originals. Especially if the originals are busted. NLM recently sold up to Mdina Italia (you may already know this, sorry!) and I would hope that Mdina continue the kits. Mainly because they are one of the few replacements that run with out a battery, as the original Morini/Ducati system.

[rossguzzi]

Thanks Steve, that is reassuring.
I have only been around the block and so far so good, but indicators are not working. I will get a new battery and hope that brings them into life.
Sorry about the quality of the phone pics. I dont know how to make them smaller ! Compooters arnt my thing.
Cheers.
Oh, while I think of it has anyone else had a small crack in the frame behind the motor. Its on one of the flat plates. It has been welded but not real well. One day I will fix it properly. But I did notice the other side is starting to go as well.
Will try to post a pic of it soon.

[norbert]

These cracks at this places are not that unusual, I had severals of them. You shoul bore them out at their endings imediatley and weld the plates from both sides if you´ll take off the motor some day

[Steve Brown]

Yes, my frame had the same cracks. Do as Norbert says!

[rossguzzi]

Good news,
Air filters clean and in good nik.
Bad news,
Bottom of fuel tank is leaking. Looks like there has been an attempt to fix it. I think there has been the inside stop leak treatment done too.

I am thinking of trying to make a new way to access the filters. Cutting the top of the air box , fitting a round cover with a thumb screw or wing nut would be far easier than the diabolical contraption it is now. Any one done this ?

[Steve Brown]

The filter box is a fiddle to get into but you hardly ever need to go in there so I don't think anybody ever modifies them, if anything they just add pod filters. That of course opens up a whole new topic of whether they work or not
Fuel tank? Oh dear, I'm there too. Not sure what to recommend there, a lot of the repair goo doesn't work with fibreglass (I found out the expensive way) But some do, apparently 'Slosh' is one but I have no experience of that one.

[rossguzzi]

Hi Steve, and any one else interested.

Mine has been repaired around the left fuel tap. A shoddy job with non fuel resistant fiberglass resin. Lucky for me a guy I know is a craftsman with such things. He has it now and is going to grind out all the crap, strip back the tap fitting back to steel and redo it in propper glass and resin.

Re air filter, I had another look at it and realise the idea I had would not work. I may pursue the idea of 2 pull down latches for each pod. IE. Cut a round hole ontop of filter, make a cover from stiff material (possibly steel or 4 mm alloy) that 2 latches clip on and pull down snug.
I do intend to do some off road riding (as we have a LOT of it around here) and gravel dust is quite extreme when the tracks are dry. It would not take long to block the filters. Im not interested in mounting pod filters as I had some issues when I had a 3 1/2 Sport with them on. Side winds etc. Plus the K&N pod filters are not good enough to filter out all gravel dust. It is very very bad for engines. So Im not exploring that at all.

Last night I got the carbs finished with new seal kits. I then took off the rocker covers and checked valve gaps. Some adjustments needed. I want to take off the rockers first and check the surface between rocker and valve. I believe Paul Compton suggested a slight facing of them if worn. Also I want to adjust end float as some are tight.

Loving working on it. Slightly more simple than the KTM 990 Im used to working on

More to come...

Cheers.

[rossguzzi]

Is there meant to be a rubber bumper on either the side stand or the center stand when in the up position ? I have both and they foul each other when tucked up. It seems if the side stand had a bit of a rubber bumper it could fix it.
Cheers.

[Steve Brown]

Yes, rubber buffers on both stands. I used a tank mounting cup rubber on my sidestand, it looked like it was meant to be there but not sure if I'm kidding myself. It works though. The centre stand buffers are the same as those used on the other old Morini road and trail bikes, haven't seen them for sale but there is a firm in Italy called Start Gomma I think? They may have them.

[MickeyMoto]

If you mean the rubbers on the frame, these should be available from Mdina. My Sport has a rubber ring around the side stand.

[rossguzzi]

Thanks for your help.
I'm also going to re pain the forks and triple clamp. The red has faded to almost a pink. After painting I want to put the original stickers back on the forks. I only have one on there now. It is the long one. Anyone got a close up pic of the one found near the top of the fork ? It is something like this.