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rossguzzi wrote:Thanks for your help.
I'm also going to re pain the forks and triple clamp. The red has faded to almost a pink.

We don't have that problem here... More worried about the salt attacking the paint

rossguzzi wrote:Thanks for your help.
I'm also going to re pain the forks and triple clamp. The red has faded to almost a pink. After painting I want to put the original stickers back on the forks. I only have one on there now. It is the long one. Anyone got a close up pic of the one found near the top of the fork ? It is something like this.

Try Classic Transfers for the sticker, I got mine from there.

https://classictransfers.co.uk/?s=marzo ... pe=product

DD

Thanks for that link. I have them in line for some.

Hello Ross,

If you are an originality fetishist then be aware that the colour of the suspension components didn't match the frame from new, though doubtless it has faded further since. The Marzocchi bits are more orange than the red on the frame. I painted my Marzocchi bits with RAL2002, though I don't know that its 100% correct.

isaydingdong.co.uk may also have the Marzocchi stickers you're looking for.

Have fun.

Hugo

Hi Sheikh,
Im not sure I am in need of it to be totally original. When I do the forks, it will probably be same red as rest of bike. To be honest, I am struggling with weather to re new all fixings in nickel plate or keep original. The original screws/bolts are looking just a bit tired.
Just not sure. Love the look of newish fixings, but then it somehow loses its oldness !
1st world problems !

Hello all,
I have what looks like 2 or 3 small leaks coming from the head gasket and head base gasket. Is there any problem RE torquing the head bolts and resetting the valves ?
Is there a specific gap for valve rocker end float ?
Also is the head stem bearings on the Camel the same as the road bikes ?
I have the tank now fixed , bike now is getting better each day.

Cheers.

So after a lot of searching I have found rocker end float gap. Also head bolt torque settings, but Im not sure if I should undo bolts first then re torque or not. I feel undoing applying oil on thread then re doing is the way. What says ye all ?
New front guard arrived today.

I thought lubricating a thread alters the torque settings.

I think your right. But for some reason I thought that I read it somewhere that is the procedure to use.

Page 46 of my blue book says torque settings are with threads lubricated with engine oil.

Pre tighten head, leave for 30 minutes, then retighten to a lower figure.

Ahh, blue book. I think I downloaded that somewhere.
All good about that for now, but am still trying to find if the Camel uses the same head stem bearings as the other smaller vee twins. Also if they are still available. Ive typed into the search bar of Mdina Italia`s website and nothing comes up. I realise they have a lot of work in front of them loading the parts onto the site. So not complaining, but I`m finding it a bit hard to work it out.
Cheers.

New front guard arrived. Need to fit it

Hi Ross, Camels have taper roller head bearings and you will have to remove the bearing support cups from the frame to uncover two small holes so that the outer races can be drifted out.
The bearings are readily available from any bearing factor.
Parts book from a later 501 Camel lists the bearing as 63 91 74.

Oh that's wonderful news !

Next items I would like to find is a set of sprockets. Am I right in thinking the 3 1/2 and 500 front drive sprockets are the same as in not teeth number but mounting style ?

And I have found someone that makes a stainless steel oil filter conversion within the sump. Anyone heard if this works well or not ? Looks good to me.

Cheers.

Stainless filter in the sump, that I’d pay to see. There is a washable plastic strainer and replacing that with metal does not strike me as wise if that is being offered. Why do people always think stainless is a universal panacea for all purposes. Far better off with regular oil changes.