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Can't undo the flywheel generator, which revolves clockwise. Logically, the nut would unscrew anti-clockwise, so that it keeps itself tight with the engine running, but NLM tell me that some do up one way, and others the other! Anybody know, and following that, how to provide some resistance, so that one is not simply turning the engine over? Again, I am told that the professionals use an air gun, not something that blesses my toolbox! Thanks, Patrick

Hi Patrick.
I'll try and see for you this week and then post my findings,I've had the nut off of my Sbarazzino once before,but even using the correct puller coundn't remove the generator rotor without potentially causing damage so didn't proceed farther

Regards Dave.

Hi Patrick.

I managed to take the generator nut off on my Corsaro engined Benelli,I saw that there was some thread protruding past the nut and that the direction could be to the right to undo.I used a 14mm socket on a sliding bar and just hit the bar a few times with a rubber mallet and it undid,I didn't use anything to hold the rotor still,I suppose it will depend on how tightly your nut was fixed previously as to how easy yours may undo.So to recap undo is to the right/clockwise.
Hope this helps?

Regards Dave.

Thanks, Dave. Managed to get the Corsaro running, though the jetting still leaves something to be desired. NLM advised me to use super unleaded petrol because of the ethanol problem, so I drained the tank, and lo and behold, the tank lining was coming away in large chunks. I really need to clean out the tank, can you recommend a non-destructive way of doing so? I guess scuba divers must have the same problem when derusting the inside of their air bottles. Also, where to obtain a reusable fuel filter?
I haven't had to remove the flywheel, but will bear in mind its left-hand thread.
Patrick

Sodium hydroxide works for removing sealant and fuel varnish.

Hydrochloric acid (spirits of salt) does a good job of removing rust.

There's a write-up here;

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/ ... moval.html

If the fuel taps are aluminium, then the Sodium hydroxide will attack them, so blanking them off with a piece of rubber would be best (I'd do that anyway).

Paul
That's a really useful article, thanks. I think that method would be best used on an unrestored tank, Mine, however, has been restored, when it probably acquired that sloshed lining that is now departing. I fear that such corrosive procedures risk damage to paintwork through leakage/ spillage, or even pinhole penetration by acid, so for the moment, I think I will rely on regular cleaning - unless someone can suggest a better method.
Patrick

Hi Patrick.
I've no real experience in cleaning out the type of substance that you're talking of,your carb should have a gauze filter in the banjo joint on the float bowl where the fuel pipe enters!
Regards Dave.

hotfoothowell wrote:I fear that such corrosive procedures risk damage to paintwork through leakage/ spillage, or even pinhole penetration by acid

I didn't damage the (ok-ish) paintwork on the tank I've just done. Modern fuel is much more likely to strip paint if you've got any pinholes! The question is, why was the tank lined? Was it done to cure leaks, or to seal away rust.