MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com Member: g7AW3f

Yes on the standard system Red is where the positive current will appear. Yellows are where negative currents will appear. The flow of those currents around the circuit Red > Battery positive > Battery negative > Reg.rect. > Yellow and back through the stator to Red where it began is controlled by t...

With the standard system; When the ignition is off and the engine isn't running the voltage from the battery comes through the standard reg. rect. and imposes itself onto the stator (Yellows and Red). It doesn't reach the part of the stator thats for the ignition (Green and "Earth") that i...

I believe with the standard reg. rect. the stator windings are live all the time even with the engine not running and the key out. Some people used to introduce fuses in case of faults. Donkey's years ago I did sit outside a pub with some other MRC members and watch as my bike stated to smoke from t...

As Mr Moto says, the Brown is 12V flowing INTO the regulator rectifier FROM the battery. As a reference point to measure the state of charge and allow the reg. rect. to regulate the AC power from the stator (2x yellow wires and 1x red) correctly.

...a new battery - Yuasa YT12B-BS which is good enough ? I would have thought a 12 Ampere hour battery would be capable, we have a 14 Ampere hour battery in ours. While Ampere hours (capacity) is important, what is perhaps more important is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps (electrical flow rate) so maybe ...

Tinker wrote: ↑12 Sep 2025 19:29 They have a weird thing where they will not sell kits to some markets. Probably for liability reasons. I’m sure they are available somewhere.

Thanks I wouldn't have thought of that. Useful to know.

How many ohms across the starter relay?

And is the circuit that pulls the relay in, pulling it in 100%?

Yes I had spotted that. I would have asked them direct except their "support" facility on the website doesn't work, not for motorcycles anyway.

The rear master cylinder is stamped 8F07X11 anyone else out there got that stamped on their 1200 (or 650?) rear brake master cylinder?

These guys were mega helpful when I needed rebuild kits for various machines https://powerhouse.uk/motorcycle-brake-caliper-seal-kits/ Thanks, I gave them a try and very helpful but unlucky they don't stock Brembo. I'm going to try info@addictionmotorsport.co.uk (a random choice) who seem to stock ...

Hi All, the rear brake master cylinder on the 1200 looks like it needs a rebuild kit. The rear brake keeps filling with air soon after every time I bleed it. Then this last time it doesn't want to pump hardly any fluid at all when I tried to bleed it. This is a 1200 Milano but it looks kinda like th...

As John says, a compression test is usually done by first running the engine for a while. I was always taught to then quickly drain the float bowls and make sure the incoming airway wasn't obstructed. In other words wind the throttle wide open then do the test :D Just kicking it over with the meter ...

Ditto, same problem here. Our fix was a new black moulding made from fibre composites, directions for how to do it this way are in a previous issue of A Tutto Gas. IMHO both the fixes (metal and fibre composite) look good on the bike and have clocked up significantly more mileage than the originals ...

Sometimes also the thread on the plug (or the body) doesn't go quite to the end and when tightening it hits the end of the thread and not the tightening face and everything goes wonky.

Possibly the face on the body that the plug is tightening up against is not square to the axis of the bore. Or the face on the plug is not square to the axis. When you tighten the last bit, either would put the axis of the damper rod out of alignment with the axis of the bore in the body.