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Mine simply has a wide black cable tie Not tight, just enough to allow flex on the rubber foam the back of the tank sits on.

Sounds like a plan.
They definitely run better with use.
Enjoy

Very strange then, that it's compression is low compared to those at Bristol. If the valve seats are good, the bores good and the head gasket ok and it runs fine it hints at maybe it's compression rings being past their best. Anything else would probably make it a bad runner. I should have asked, do...

Its good to hear the valves were seating ok. The manual specifies quite a narrow seat width if I remember correctly?
How did the bore look?

Fair comment its your bike after all to do as you wish. I'm not going to condemn anyone for riding Morinis on a sunny day. My word of caution is that mine was the exactly same, the one that burned out a valve in France. Then it cost me a lot more to fix a valve and a new seat in the head, and the wo...

If you had the composite ones I wouldn't reuse them. The solid aluminium ones people regularly reuse if they look flat. I think ideally you are supposed to anneal them by playing a blow lamp over them about 5 seconds. They shouldn't need the likes of hermetite. Mdina if your gasket is too bad. Getti...

Just remove the front head. Its the easy one and (assuming the compression is similarly low on both) it will likely be representative of both. Anyway you will have the front head off and back on again within a day. And if it turns out it needs work badly then you know, and you can choose whether its...

As George says, you probably won't need to take the pulley off to find if the key is in the right slot (and find the dot, if there is one).
Good luck.
Did you get around to popping one of the heads off to check valve seats? It also lets you see down the bore while its off.

Thanks George. I know that the key in the crank aligns with the dot on the crankcase, but hard to see any other marks on the pulley. I will pop the flywheel off again over the weekend and take a look. My bottom pulley doesn't have a dot on it, but instead it has a notch "ground out" somew...

Bumblebee - thanks again, sounds like it might be worth popping the heads off and taking a look, as you say not much effort involved. The heads come off easy, each basically a pushrod single. I'm almost embarrassed to point it out, but when taking the heads off don't forget there's an M6 screw down...

Bumblebee - Good call, not had a look at the valve seats so might be worth a look - I'll see if the adjustments I have made has doen anything first. Thanks again. If it is still the same after the adjustments, my experience over a lot of miles has been each time the compression has slowly got worse...

If its not smoking, its running well and nothing amiss with the timing its probably just the valve seats need lapping.

A 250T clutch plate has inside diameter 9.5cm. Does it have friction material on both sides? If both sides, you need another 6 to go with it. Yes it is 9.5cm inside diameter. Yes it has friction material on both sides. I have a total of 5 brand new, but they don't fit my 3½. So probably they are fo...

Very often the problem is not the plate itself, but the fact that it has bedded into the friction plates either side of it, which stops it doing its job as a soft initial spring during the first stages of take up of the clutch. So replacing the friction plate either side of it with new or good ones ...

Based on the information available this appears to be a brand new friction plate from a 250 Single.