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IMG_6042-compressed.jpeg This shows what you can do with stuff lying around the workshop. The clearer test piece is ‘natural’ two pack PU rubber, fully cured at over 2 weeks old. The white one has poly filler in because it’s was left over from decorating my house & I hadn’t any chalk but is the...

There’s nothing in the end can at all. I’ve taken it off. There were remains of sheet steel at the joint to the down pipes. My guess is it’s a butchered RMS

Out of the mould with flash still to be trimmed. Pressure cast but note the one bubble void. If it wasn’t pressure cast then you’d see many more such faults but that’s ok. IMG_5995-compressed.jpeg IMG_5994-compressed.jpeg [] IMG_5991-compressed.jpeg More parts I’ve done for the bike, side panel top ...

Does this help?

Quite a subject! So many variables! I’m vacuuming out RTV silicone mixes to make strong moulds with over a 3D printed master. They last 10-20 casts. There’s a few home VAC chambers out there you can buy. I have a small one at home & I welded up for myself a pressure chamber that I can blow to ar...

IMG_5992-compressed.jpeg Rubber inlet. This is more like it. Flow feels good inside, which is the whole point of doing this. It’ll work better with support hangers for the carbs, which I’ll fabricate later anyway, but I’ll also try a trick with fillers in the rubber mix to stiffen it more. It is qu...

Ok thanks. Some pointers for me. The rear cylinder’s down pipe is clamped at the bottom before it sweeps inboard & reaches the collector. The big clamp is (stainless, I ‘found’ it in the production line stores at work) just a, I hesitate to say this, ‘silencer’ clamp. What was there wasn’t up to...

I want to get a better inlet tube between carb & head that isn’t 24-24 dia but 29 to 24 to match the Amal carb so I’ve made some trial tubes in ABS. The problem is getting it all to fit in between the cylinders. 4 attempts later, I get the CAD right-ish. This might work as this stuff is quite hi...

Thinking breaking the budget & getting some vinyl go-faster stripes in front of the badge following the bend lines of the tank to balance out the white 3 1/2 on the side panels

Thanks for having a look. In one of the other posts, there’s a system that looks close to this one marked as RMS but I just don’t know. It’s always nice to understand what we have! There seems no facility to post videos here but it does sound a, good, b er, illegal. Not really my style but it’s on s...

So what exhaust have I got on this then chaps, and what does RMS stand for? It is quite loud!

I got the speedo off eBay, £60. My most expensive purchase. the bike didn’t come with one at all. I tried the original rubbers but it’s a no-go with that speedo so I made a whole binnacle to suit. It’s now a whole lot different to any previous photos of the binnacle design, it’s now a two piece tail...

IMG_5890-compressed.jpeg Latest update : it runs. It has fully working electrics (home designed/made loom) & starts easily. I wish I could send video as it sounds, ‘well’ with an open 2 into 1. It has a registration. It is road ready bar the unfinished paint job so I haven’t got the taps on. Th...

Tell me more Arthur. Sorry, been away a while.

So it’s a 400. Thought I’d have a go at making a 400 badge based on the 500’s & see where we’d go. The side panels I got with it have holes drilled for a 3 1/2 badge (which I’ve a pair of) but 400 alone leaves one hole visible & obviously unused. That’s why I put the Morini bit underneath, t...