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No, couldn't possibly be me, I've never really got the hang of selling bikes. That would proably be why I've got two 250's, three Sports (well, two and most of one in bits), two Darts, a '66 Corsaro, a 501 engined Valentini replica, a Motobi Tornado, a couple of Freccias, and shortly to come a WD BS...

16mm is standard 350.

I think 250 is 14mm. The 250 runs the same wheel, disc and caliper as a 350.

NLM do a complete piston assemby for less than a tenner which takes all the stress out of the job.

If you're only running one front disc, then consider spending £50 on a new 250 mastercyclinder, it does wonders for the feel. The original 350 cylinder is perfect for twin front discs.

The rear belt flange should be easy to remove, but the pulley itself should be quite a tight fit. If it's not you risk it wearing the crank. To get the pulley off you first remove the circlip, spring and outer flange. You then put on a large thick washer and retain it with the circlip. You can now u...

I believe it is possible.

I'm really lazy.

I take it all the way apart so it's an easy job.


If you're taking it properly apart, then drive the dowels through if the basket won't seperate.

pull what out? and why are you hooking it in there in the first place? The oil seal. http://www.morinispecial.it/manuali/ric-350/3.5_5.jpg The figures aren't all that clear, but items 15 and 16 (shown behind the clutch basket) are the two seals. The small seal fits into the clutch basket and the la...

The reason for the smaller main jets on the Dart is mostly the 'Flower Pot' that restricts airflow through the filter (see my website). I think you'll find that swapping things over will be fine (don't forget the atomisers), but you might like to try smaller idle jets since Morinis tend to run rich ...

The easy way to get the clutch hub off is an air impact driver or electric equivilent, then you can hold the hub by hand. A good way of preventing the clutch screws from jamming, is to NOT tighten them all the way. There's no need to and the spring pressure will stop them coming undone. You've got a...

I think grinding paste is not a good idea. It sounds like storing up trouble for the future. Tapers should never be greased, it would defeat the purpose of them gripping by friction. I suppose if you polished the taper afterwards it might be OK. I had to clean up a flywheel taper on a Dart engine an...

The flywheel is held on and driven by the taper. The key is just there so the timing marks stay in the same place. In theory you should be able to torque the nut up and then remove it. The taper should then hold. The nut is there to stop the flwheel running amok if it does come off the taper for any...

Fork oil, that's an interesting topic. The answer is; Between SAE 5 and SAE 30 It all depends on what fork internals they fitted that year, month, week, DAY!? The Blue manual says HLP80, which is 80 weight hydraulic oil. Hydraulic and Gear oil is on a different chart to Engine or Fork oil, but the v...

That's exactly the damage I was thinking of.

If you were simply to squeeze the rim together in a big vice (with jaw protectors) you'd take most of the damage out. Good enough for MOT standard anyway. The rims are quite soft and bend rather than crack for minor damage.

The rims aren't designed for tubless tyres, so just run tubes. In theory there are TL (tubeless) and TT (tube type) tyres, but in reality everybody just uses TL tyres with a tube. The tube will cause the tyre to generate more heat at a given load and speed and will in theory drop the speed rating. M...

You can clean up the sump plug, but if your're going to replace it, then driving it round with a hammer and cold chisel is very effective. At this point I have to search for my special 'drifting' chisel, becuase all my other cold chisels are kept very sharp for metal cutting and will probably just t...

The early 350 used a 6306 bearing on the drive side (30mm bore 72mm diameter 19mm wide) and a 6206 on the timing side (30mm bore 62mm diameter 16mm wide). The timing side bearing was a sliding fit on a hardened sleeve pressed onto the timing side of the crank. The 250 twin also runs these bearings, ...