New club member

[ericwwreckless]

Hello Comrades, I've only recently joined the MRC and, after years of dithering, have got a 1986 Morini Kanguro on its way to me - exciting!

Doubtless I'll have a few questions once it arrives but, until then, stay groovy.

[RedVee]

Hi and welcome.

[Tinker]

Welcome. Nice i wouldn’t mind one myself

[Steve Brown]

Looks a nice one. Are you planning to trail ride with it? You'll see we have an active Green Lane Section.

[ericwwreckless]

Looks a nice one. Are you planning to trail ride with it? You'll see we have an active Green Lane Section.

That is exactly what I intend to with it. I know it's a 1986 bike but what would that make it in x/x1/x2 versions?

[Morini Jen]

Hi Eric.

Welcome to the Forum.

I would guess that your bike is an X2. The X1 had round frame tubes, I'm not sure of the differeces between X2 and X3. There are some photos here from the Dutch Morini Club archive which may offer a few clues.... https://www.morini-riders-club.com/Nede ... ious6.html

Edit.. It looks as though the X3 had a rear disc brake. So, there you go.

[MickeyMoto]

X3 had a larger tank, rear disc and electric starter, a bit heavier!

Not sure if the X2 is still 6v/12v but the X3 was wholly 12 volt.

[ericwwreckless]

Why isn't there a *like* button on the forum? Anyway, thanks both.

[Steve Brown]

Yes, looks like an X2 to me too. Glad to hear you have honourable plans for it, maybe join in with the clubs own Green Lane riders?

[ericwwreckless]

Yes, looks like an X2 to me too. Glad to hear you have honourable plans for it, maybe join in with the clubs own Green Lane riders?

Definitely, there are so many green lanes in Devon. I've been riding them on my MZ but it's now time for something more capable.

[ericwwreckless]

I'm struggling with the 6V electrics on my new bike. If anybody who undertands them would like to stop off for a fed and watered night or two on the way to the AGM [40 miles away] - please shout?

[julianharty]

I'm struggling with the 6V electrics on my new bike. If anybody who undertands them would like to stop off for a fed and watered night or two on the way to the AGM [40 miles away] - please shout?

I'm certainly happy to help you make sense of the combined 6V/12V wiring on your Kanguro, I might be able to pop in on my way to/from the Rally this weekend - would a phone/video call help sooner? 07971 078 133

In short, your bike has 3 independent wiring circuits:

• 6V DC - indicators, rear light, horn
• 12V AC - front headlight
• The ignition system (which is around 90V AC initially)

The wiring loom has long runs of wires to and fro which loses some of what little power your bike generates which can make the lights dim even once you're worked out how to get the system to behave.

I've converted these systems into pure 12V DC and fitted a small 12V battery that fits in the Kanguro's battery area. My 250 2C road bike had a similar design which I've again converted to 12V DC. I also modify or even make wiring looms to reduce the long cable runs and to take advantage of only having 2 wiring circuits (the other one is for the ignition system). The conversion of the wiring in the rotor is summarised elsewhere on this website, at https://www.morini-riders-club.com/Nede ... Conversion

[ericwwreckless]

I'm struggling with the 6V electrics on my new bike. If anybody who undertands them would like to stop off for a fed and watered night or two on the way to the AGM [40 miles away] - please shout?

I'm certainly happy to help you make sense of the combined 6V/12V wiring on your Kanguro, I might be able to pop in on my way to/from the Rally this weekend - would a phone/video call help sooner? 07971 078 133

In short, your bike has 3 independent wiring circuits:

• 6V DC - indicators, rear light, horn
• 12V AC - front headlight
• The ignition system (which is around 90V AC initially)

The wiring loom has long runs of wires to and fro which loses some of what little power your bike generates which can make the lights dim even once you're worked out how to get the system to behave.

I've converted these systems into pure 12V DC and fitted a small 12V battery that fits in the Kanguro's battery area. My 250 2C road bike had a similar design which I've again converted to 12V DC. I also modify or even make wiring looms to reduce the long cable runs and to take advantage of only having 2 wiring circuits (the other one is for the ignition system). The conversion of the wiring in the rotor is summarised elsewhere on this website, at https://www.morini-riders-club.com/Nede ... Conversion

Thanks for the response Julian. In short, I bought the bike very recently knowing that its horn and indicators were not working. I put a new 6v battery in which is fully charged.
The bike starts easily and runs well. I have sidelight, dip&main beam, rear light, brake light working. I've spent today going through all the wiring from the handlebar switch, replaced the old horn which was defunct. The new horn definitely works (direct connection to the battery to test) but nothing from the horn button or indicators still.
It may or may not be a clue but, with the ignition switched on, the indicator warning light is 'half lit' - perhaps a short in the switch as it doesn't light when the switch is disconnected. Wiring for the idiot lights seems a bit of a mess so it's likely that there may be incorrectly wired lights there. I'll keep at it but I've no real plan of attack other than testing continuity etc.
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
Cheers, James

[julianharty]

James,
great to learn you're making good progress. Here are a couple of ideas that might help you trace any remaining gremlins in your electrics:

• The flasher unit essentially makes, and breaks, and makes, and breaks, a circuit for as long as power flows through that circuit. The circuit includes the indicator switch in the LH handlebar switchgear when switched to the L or R side and either/both the indicator bulbs on that 'side' of the bike. and the 'earth' return for each indicator bulb. The bulbs are wired in parallel so providing 1 functions it should light up when power flows through the circuit.
  • This means you can replace it with a bit of wire for testing purposes e.g. a short 'loopback' with a pair of male spade connectors.
  • If you have a bulb circuit tester e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electrical-Cir ... 0C4KFL8K3/ you can check whether either connection is powered to the flasher unit when the ignition is on (one should be i.e. the circuit tester's light should glow) or a multimeter you should be able to find roughly 6V on one or other of the connections.
  • If neither has power then try providing battery positive directly to one/both the connectors and with the indicator switch selected to the L or R side.
• The switch is intended to short i.e. close the circuit for the indicators bulbs to light up. The indicator warning light uses the other side's wiring to provide the earth return and won't be fully bright as some of the voltage is used by the other side's bulbs. The warning bulb probably gets around 80% to 90% of the voltage (I can work out and explain the maths if you're keen to know more).
• Generally I'd focus on each of the connections in the circuit and checking they aren't badly worn, damaged, or dirty. Typically the connections made in the LH switch gear can be at fault as can the 'earths' for the indicator stalks. This advice also applies to the horn's circuit where the horn's switch in the LH handlebar may need cleaning. For these Kanguros I think the 'flash' button also operates the horn BTW.
• I expect there'll be around 16 distinct connection points per circuit for the indicators. Each terminal connection counts as 2 - the male and the female connector, the switchgear includes around half of these connection points and it's also the most used so prone to usage induced failures. (There are in the order of 6 more connection points for the second indicator per side and these also need to be in good working order for both indicators to operate)
• The horn circuit is relatively simple, probably still around 10 connection points though.
• As you know you can check components in isolation e.g. the horn; you can also do the same for each indicator stalk and bulb.

To clean connectors (and the switch mechanism when you can get into it sufficiently to be useful) something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dielectric-Aut ... B0D6R543V2 may be helpful. I use a potentially fancier equivalent that's no longer available, sadly.

In summary, your approach of testing continuity combined with using a circuit tester (or multimeter) for the presence of power at various points on each circuit should enable you to work out what needs fixing/replacing. Checking and cleaning connections (including 'earths') may be sufficient. Please report back, happy to continue helping.

[ericwwreckless]

That's extremely helpful advice, I've got tomorrow off work and shall go through it all methodically. With a little luck it'll be ready for the AGM weekend.

[EDIT later that night]
Working from the battery forwards I've discovered that the yellow and the yellow/green wires were on the other's spade at the ignition switch. I now have parking lights which I didn't before so that's progress. I've also tested all indicators with a direct supply and they all work fine.

With the 6 pole ignition switch which should be live with 6v once the ignition is on?

1. red (+ve from battery
2. Brown
3. Green (to transducers via diode)
4. Blue (earth)
5. Yellow
6. Yellow/Green

Is it the yellow wire that takes power up to the handlebar switch or is it the yellow, red and brown?