Went out for a ride on the corsaro last night and it's fair to say we were cracking on a bit. What I found a little worrying was the bar waggling mid corner on bumpy roads. I wouldn't go as far as calling it a tankslapper but it was nonetheless most unwelcome. For 99% of riding it will never be an issue but I'd like to get it improved for those few occasions when I am pushing it hard.
Anyone got any tips on setting up the suspension? Currently it's as it left the factory. I'm not exactly your average Italian racing snake, don't really plan on doing many trackdays, just commuting, weekend rides and the odd (fast) ride with mates.
Cheers!
Suspension setup
On track and when 'cracking on' I found the front felt too light so i've added a couple of mm rear ride height that should help put more weight over the front. It might make it slightly more prone to a 'tankslapper' though but i've never had anything like that. Maybe your handlebar movement was also caused by a lack of weight over the front?
K-tech do a ride in-ride out suspension set up for about £40, setting all the sags etc with you there and giving you options for track/touring etc.
K-tech do a ride in-ride out suspension set up for about £40, setting all the sags etc with you there and giving you options for track/touring etc.
As Franky say’s K-tech are definitely the boys for setting up your suspension, if you feel like playing with the suspension yourself I recommend the following as a base to get started :
First Set up your bikes static sag, lift the front up so the forks are fully extended then get someone to measure from say the wheel spindle to top clamp, then let the bike sit upright on level ground without putting any pressure on the bike get someone to measure from exactly the same points as before, now pump the forks 5 or 6 times and let it settle without any pressure on the bars now take a third measurement.
Find the middle figure between the second and third measurements and take this number away from the first measurement the difference is your static sag.
Example:
First dimension 725mm
Second dimension 700mm
Third dimension 680mm
Middle of second and third is 690mm………725 – 690mm = 35mm
Ideally you need front static sag of about 30mm – 35mm adjust your preload to achieve this
Do the same on the back and aim for a 25mm – 30mm static sag
after this sit on the bike keeping it upright and keep your hands on your lap, now bounce up and down ideally the front and back of your bike should move evenly parallel to the ground, if the front dives before the back then stiffen up the front compression setting (or loosen off the rear comp setting)until it runs parallel same applies to the rebound, how stiff the overall settings are is really down to how you ride, the more aggressive a rider the stiffer the overall settings should be, finally there is also working sag (rider sag) if you’re a heavy weight then the standard springs may not be powerful enough for you after setting static sag
rider sag is determined by the additional suspension movement, a crude test for the front is by putting a zip tie on the front slider and go for a ride look at where the tie is after the ride if its right down the bottom then you can be fairly confident that you need stiffer springs and no adjustments of the standard springs is going to help you.
First Set up your bikes static sag, lift the front up so the forks are fully extended then get someone to measure from say the wheel spindle to top clamp, then let the bike sit upright on level ground without putting any pressure on the bike get someone to measure from exactly the same points as before, now pump the forks 5 or 6 times and let it settle without any pressure on the bars now take a third measurement.
Find the middle figure between the second and third measurements and take this number away from the first measurement the difference is your static sag.
Example:
First dimension 725mm
Second dimension 700mm
Third dimension 680mm
Middle of second and third is 690mm………725 – 690mm = 35mm
Ideally you need front static sag of about 30mm – 35mm adjust your preload to achieve this
Do the same on the back and aim for a 25mm – 30mm static sag
after this sit on the bike keeping it upright and keep your hands on your lap, now bounce up and down ideally the front and back of your bike should move evenly parallel to the ground, if the front dives before the back then stiffen up the front compression setting (or loosen off the rear comp setting)until it runs parallel same applies to the rebound, how stiff the overall settings are is really down to how you ride, the more aggressive a rider the stiffer the overall settings should be, finally there is also working sag (rider sag) if you’re a heavy weight then the standard springs may not be powerful enough for you after setting static sag
rider sag is determined by the additional suspension movement, a crude test for the front is by putting a zip tie on the front slider and go for a ride look at where the tie is after the ride if its right down the bottom then you can be fairly confident that you need stiffer springs and no adjustments of the standard springs is going to help you.