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bike broke down, pop, bang ,fart, felt like a coil , then i remembered there was a diagnostics function on the dash.

brilliant

I thought my battery had went belly up as i could hear the starter relay clicking and the horn sounded like a squeeking mouse in heat. But i wasn't quite sure as the misfire pointed to a coil or plug.
Then i remembered to scroll through the menus to get battery voltage. Sure enough 10v then 6v when cranking.

Set kill switch to off (i think) then hold down the menu button on the dash and switch on. This allows diagnostic menu to be accessed. If i remember right, if the kill switch is on the diagnostics menu is skipped.

I wonder why the manual states only authorised personell only. bugger me it's my bike.

Confirmed no fault codes but battery gubbed ........or else the rectifier?

Teach me to look at the menu sytem more often.

So remember to look at the diagnostics, i certainly forgot it existed

any one know what's the best battery to get?

I'd have a look at a powervamp or odeyssey(sp) one.

thanks i'll have a look

No worries

My 1st battery went after 6 weeks or so, the second is lasting well but I know its got a limited lifespan. I've got one of the above fitted to a 'kit car' i'm building. Same size as a bike battery but turns over a 3.0 engine so so easily.

http://www.powervampracing.com/ if you give them a call with the dimensions they'll tell you which battery fits.

trouble is ,when it comes to price most folk pick the cheap one, but when you're stranded in the sticks months later because the cheapo has given up the ghost it's not such good value, so i'll probably get a decent quality item.

That is a common problem, one of the above is only about £25 more than standard but can be recovered from deep discharge and have a higher CCA rating.

refitted the battery that had discharged after charging, started ok but only showing 11.5 volts. Take battery off bike and reads ok for voltage.

swapped for another known good battery and it's doing the same so i suspect something's draining current.
first stop the rectifier
I'd rather it was the battery that was knackered as at least it's just a straight swap, no fannying about.

twisty wrote:refitted the battery that had discharged after charging, started ok but only showing 11.5 volts. Take battery off bike and reads ok for voltage.

swapped for another known good battery and it's doing the same so i suspect something's draining current.
first stop the rectifier
I'd rather it was the battery that was knackered as at least it's just a straight swap, no fannying about.

swapped over to another rectifier but still getting a low battery reading (11.5) with engine running.

Apart from the obvious of swapping out connectors to isolate, any tips as i hate electronics, full of little gremlins where eventually you lose the rag and take a flakey

would i be right in saying that i may have current going to earth somewhere

You say the problem felt like a faulty coil and or plugs and the only visable fault was low voltage. Thinking of my current problems the symptons started with the bike sounding like it was out of fuel and then dirt in the fuel sounding like a missfire, does this sound similar? Now that my bitch has self healed itself Brian my mechanic has suggested that I replace the battery. Perhaps its had a hard time this past three months not running and cranking it over from cold, normally I keep it on a battery optimate. Could it be that something is going to earth somewhere and causing the bikes to missfire?
Just a thought
cheers Dave

you may be right.
The last time i noticed it was when all of a sudden when taking it for an mot it "hiccupped".
Immediate thought then was coil, but both are new replaced under warranty, although i realised that meant nothing.

The hiccup never reappeared , but it did seem odd at the time as it was dry, no rain and a very low rolling throttle.

when it reappeared it was pop, bang , bigger bang , kangaroo , keep the revs up , make way , i can't stop or she'll dieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

just died
Hello mr AA Man

To date swapped rectifiers, same voltage
swapped batteries , same voltage.
checked output from regulator by disconnecting to rectifier and running and starting on battery alone. Reading 11.5v on dash.
diagnostics on clock say no faults, because the battery isn't flat yet.

Now i could have two duff batteries, as they are both from italians and both the same make as supplied by morini.
I'm lucky that if the push comes to a shove i've got an alternator,but i'm not convinced.

I got my pal to tell me how to use a multimeter properly , but being thick i'll let him do the testing. He did explain to me how to check for current going to ground and so far no problems showing on the multimeter.

So its either , battery (i'll try a car battery for a few mins) as i don't want to make the alternator struggle to recharge a large car amperage battery.
Could be a duff dash, but i don't think so.
It runs in the garage , but i wouldn't trust it on the road.
all i need to see is the 13 to 14.5 volts on the dash

i've got a reading of approx 12.6volts with ignition off , is this normal or should it be about 13v
lovely bike , not perfect, its a love hate relationship at the moment

you should get over 12v just reading the voltage with no load, 13.4v-14v with the engine running. Should drop down to 9-10.5v when turning over/starting.

I had issues with the factory supplied battery, basically 2 died even though they were plugged into a battery conditioner all the time. When my current one dies i'll fit a powervamp/odeyssey one.

Let us know how you get on.

about 28v ac current from alternator taken from the disconnected plug lead off the alternator.

12.6 volts no load at battery
running = 11.5volts on dash, used to read 13/14.5 volts

tried with other bike battery /same
tried with car battery/ same

That's why i need a pic of the rectifier wires and connector or the relationship of the 3 yellow wires to the alternator 3 pin connector, as a cock up was made when swapping rectifiers. I made the mistake of fitting new 3 pin connectors not realising the choc bloc connector was a "dealer" fit.

bike is obviously just running until the battery discharges. Will start ok with alternator disconnected, so enough cranking but not charging when connected.

have you ever come across a wiring diagram for the bike

I might have a CD dealer manual for the bike somewhere.... I'm away with work for a week so I can't check till I get back. Either that or i'll have a look at my bike.

I've had my bike in bits to change all the bolts to stainless ones and can't remember seeing a choc block, it was all superseal connectors. My bikes a mid 08 bike so it may have had the 'uprated' connectors fitted at the factory.

Im going to stick my neck out but according to my mechanic the three yellow wires from the alternator are all the same so their position at the connector block is imaterial. From the three pin block to the regulator on my bike they are as follows. Standing beside the fuel tank looking to the rear of the bike the sequence is as follows.

RED YELLOW BLACK YELLOW BLACK YELLOW RED

My connector blocks consist of 2 Blacks,2 Reds and 3 Yellows

Hope this is of some help to you
cheers Dave

thats great, couldn't oblige with a photo as well , if it's not too much trouble.

if you happen to have a multimeter any chance of reading the voltage when you disconnect the 3 pin connector to the alternator. Its ac current here not dc