Anyone recognise this?? New to Morini.

[Redplate]

I got the speedo off eBay, £60. My most expensive purchase. the bike didn’t come with one at all. I tried the original rubbers but it’s a no-go with that speedo so I made a whole binnacle to suit. It’s now a whole lot different to any previous photos of the binnacle design, it’s now a two piece tailored to cover up & aid the clamping of the speedo & revcounter. It took a fair few attempts to get it right, top plate stiffness in the material I used was the biggest issue but it’s fairly simple in its look which isn’t too out of place in my book. It includes an electronic trip reset for the speedo & a charging state indicator, not just a ‘random’ ignition-on red light. The speedo also has indicator & high beam idiot lamps & has a choice of back light colour! Ok so there’s nothing standard here, I wired it to have a yellow back light for main & dip, red for just pilot as a warning for the rider.

[barney 66]

Great Thanks,I will take a look at them

[Redplate]

I want to get a better inlet tube between carb & head that isn’t 24-24 dia but 29 to 24 to match the Amal carb so I’ve made some trial tubes in ABS. The problem is getting it all to fit in between the cylinders. 4 attempts later, I get the CAD right-ish.
This might work as this stuff is quite high temp ‘glassing’ point plastic & it’s nice & rigid but I’m also casting a rubber one to see how it all works. I have some reservation on air leaks with the rigid system too. All to be worked out.

IMG_5958-compressed.jpeg (38.13 KiB) Viewed 4972 times

Next is a clutch arm cover. This is rigid still. It’ll have to be rubber one day. It’s close but not ‘there’ yet.

IMG_5953-compressed.jpeg (29.01 KiB) Viewed 4972 times

[Redplate]

IMG_5992-compressed.jpeg (39.95 KiB) Viewed 4920 times

Rubber inlet. This is more like it. Flow feels good inside, which is the whole point of doing this. It’ll work better with support hangers for the carbs, which I’ll fabricate later anyway, but I’ll also try a trick with fillers in the rubber mix to stiffen it more. It is quite ‘young’ too so needs a week to cure fully.

[julianharty]

IMG_5992-compressed.jpeg
Rubber inlet. This is more like it. Flow feels good inside, which is the whole point of doing this. It’ll work better with support hangers for the carbs, which I’ll fabricate later anyway, but I’ll also try a trick with fillers in the rubber mix to stiffen it more. It is quite ‘young’ too so needs a week to cure fully.

I'd love to learn more about how you cast the rubber manifolds especially as you tweak the mixture to make the items work well on the bike. Please post updates on your progress either here or in a separate message. Thank you, Julian.

[Parker3865]

Casting rubber, I too would be interested in the process. Very interesting.

[Redplate]

Quite a subject! So many variables! I’m vacuuming out RTV silicone mixes to make strong moulds with over a 3D printed master. They last 10-20 casts. There’s a few home VAC chambers out there you can buy. I have a small one at home & I welded up for myself a pressure chamber that I can blow to around 3 bar. I have much bigger & better stuff at work.
So I’ve got some sophisticated CAD & 3D printer availability but you can do this stuff at home with free to download CAD & home printers but quite frankly they both won’t get the finish or curves so nice unless you sand the prints down & then you have to watch the dimensions. You have to be careful if you use home SLS 3D prints for a ‘master’ as some RTV’s don’t react with the ‘platinum’ catalysts so a tin one is required. FDM types tend to be more inert to it.
For the PU rubbers there’s a wide variety but I’m using an A85 shore. Gets pretty stiff with a decent wall thickness but it might get a stiffer flex mod with chalk in it if you try it at home. Weights & measures all depend on the types of mix you use. Bit of a black art. This stuff I use has a quick ‘pot’ life so I can’t VAC out air in the mix, you have to immediately blow it down to 4 bar to collapse any bubbles. You don’t get 5 minutes. I guess it takes out 95% plus of bubbles. If you don’t, you won’t guarantee much of any of the specified flex strengths & tare resistances & wont look pretty to boot close up.

[Steve Brown]

Interesting stuff!

[Redplate]

Out of the mould with flash still to be trimmed. Pressure cast but note the one bubble void. If it wasn’t pressure cast then you’d see many more such faults but that’s ok.

IMG_5995-compressed.jpeg (21.83 KiB) Viewed 4864 times

IMG_5994-compressed.jpeg (29.59 KiB) Viewed 4864 times

[]

IMG_5991-compressed.jpeg (45.69 KiB) Viewed 4864 times

More parts I’ve done for the bike, side panel top mount rubbers (I’ve no idea about the originals) & the clutch actuation arm cover. That looks like it’ll be pretty close, I’ve fettled it & tried it on but I’ve not finished in that area yet.
And finally you can see the sort of iterative development path I’ve been following, there were other ones I’ve already binned to get the clearance right so the non standard carb doesn’t foul the barrels. It takes time just doing it as time permits.

[julianharty]

Thank you so much for these photos that show the pre-trimmed cast items as well as the progression in your development of the carb mounts. They provide me with a better idea of the sorts of challenges that are involved in the process.

[Redplate]

IMG_6042-compressed.jpeg (25.46 KiB) Viewed 4712 times

This shows what you can do with stuff lying around the workshop. The clearer test piece is ‘natural’ two pack PU rubber, fully cured at over 2 weeks old. The white one has poly filler in because it’s was left over from decorating my house & I hadn’t any chalk but is the same mix otherwise. Clearly it bends & has some flexibility but this is only 24hrs old & not fully cured & is demonstrably stiffer. I estimate it’ll only get 5% stiffer. I’ve recorded the weights and measures for the mix I use but really you have to experiment with whatever you purchase for yourself.