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I bought a new set of Tarozzi rear sets from an American supplier. The kit include the left and right foot peg and lever assemblies and the control rods, four fasteners but only one of the required clevis connections. The parts included matched the parts diagram so if one were to consider this kit you will need three more connectors, I had extra heim joints so I used those.



Installing the right hand foot rest / shift lever was straight forward, the right side does not use the original foot rest lug and the 6mm hex bolt is too long at 36mm, a 31 mm bolt is required.



I needed to fit a spacer between the upper mount and the frame, a 6mm (1/4") is required (not included), a stack of washers would do if you can't source a spacer



The left hand side was not so simple, a couple of problems, first the brake pedal will foul on the header, especially the lower heat shield captive nut.



I cut the nut off the header and I added a spacer between the lower rear set bolt and the frame, this moved the bracket out 2mm so the brake lever will not rub on the header.



I also cut off the bottom of the heat shield, re-welded the captive nut higher on the header, and drilled a new hole in the shorter heat shield



The foot peg positions and lever actions are smooth and I am happy with that.

The negative is that the kick starter will foul on the brake lever, probably enough movement to just start the bike if one were lucky, good thing the starter motor has been overhauled!



Overall I am happy with the kit, the previous owner had cut off the original control lever frame lugs and fitted home made rear sets that were awkward and resulted in a upside down shift pattern, this new set up is a big improvement.



I hope this can help others make an informed decision on rear sets.

Thanks for the write up. Your steps mirror what many have found but it’s a good reference to have the pictures and your descriptions.

I cut approx 10mm off the brake peg to help in clearing the kickstart, and with the NLM extender block (ugly and only just about functional), the kickstart can be used if the starter motor doesn’t do the trick. Beware any setup where the kickstart can clout the rearsets- they can be brittle and break...

NLM used to do a bronze swan neck kickstart which was a good looking solution to the clearance issue. MDINA do not have any of those left- Maybe if somebody has one a batch of copies could be made?

Hi,

Glad you sorted out the fitting issues. The only 'non fit' issue I recall from fitting mine was that the rear brake cable needed modifying (not an issue for disc rear brakes maybe). A modification I also did which is worth doing is to drill the swinging arm on the left bearing and install a grease nipple on the top of the pivot as the original location is now used to mount the footrest back plate. It saves having to remove the exhaust to grease the bearing. On the right side I used an NLM supplied hollow bolt to hold the plate on with the grease nipple fitted to that.
I can confirm what Tom says - that the Tarozzi 'arms' are vey easily broken by the kickstart hiting the brake lever end. They are only die cast alloy. If your kickstart can contact the brake lever tip, it WILL break.
My solution was as pictured. I made my own fold up footrest and brake pedal end (Tarozzi now do these, but didn't when I needed them) and having gone through the 'NLM spacer' with standard kickstart which eventually broke, I made one to my own design from 30mm thick 'HE30' aluminium. The original lasted over 20 years until the complete kickstart assy went AWOL in Spain a few years ago. Mk2 (same pattern) now performing as per my first one. My bike is non E-start, so is essential it works ok. Regards,
George

Some Pics of LHS Mods

RHS Grease nipple mod

Thanks for the pictures!

I would like to find the adapter that moves the kick starter further out from the engine, any idea where I could find one?

Jim

Not sure where to find a kickstart extender.

NLM used to make them and MDINA have none showing in stock. Don’t know of any other suppliers.

https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M380115MOD.html

George- what’s the chances of you making a batch of your design- sounds like there are at least 2 customers right here!!

A partial fix for the kickstart lever clouting the Tarozzi brake lever is to shorten the peg on the brake lever. Mine is down to perhaps 10mm (two ribs' width on the Tarozzi rubber cover) and my NLM kickstart lever clears it. I had it slightly wider before, but the brake lever eventually broke at the end. I can still use the rear brake well enough—and since I rarely use rear brakes, I do not miss anything.

morini_tom wrote:Not sure where to find a kickstart extender.

NLM used to make them and MDINA have none showing in stock. Don’t know of any other suppliers.

https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M380115MOD.html

George- what’s the chances of you making a batch of your design- sounds like there are at least 2 customers right here!!

Thank you for the link to the image, that looks like something I can make on my mill.

There is another neat solution just requiring slotting of the plate the clevis attaches to. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a rear disc setup also.

I had forgotten about this and ought to give it a go on my K1.

It was posted by pedro elsewhere on this forum but I have copied it below:

pedro wrote:


I have got over the problem with a lever that lifts up out of harms way rather than having a short brake pedal.
I can't claim that it's my idea, because it's not, I got it from an old ATG (I think) it's been on there some years now and works a treat.

I am so glad you guys posted this! Here I was at 1am wondering why, even with the NLM spacer, my kick start lever hits the break pedal

Is there any info on how the grease nipple fits into the spline shaft when the rearsets are fitted?