Electric Start

[Andy_C]

The battery is past it's best on mine, but given that it starts so easily on the kicker I have decided to remove the leccy starter.

Also means that I fit a lighter lower capacity battery.

Makes sense to me.

Starter will be put into storage until the time comes to sell the bike.

[MickeyMoto]

Or you stall it in gear in a queue and realise you can't find neutral...

[norbert]

Or you stall it in gear in a queue and realise you can't find neutral...

Pushing the bike about 30 cm forwards while trying to find the neutral normaly will enter

[Andy_C]

Well I never did remove the starter, decided it was too useful so bought a new battery - Yuasa YT12B-BS which is good enough ?

Roll on a few months, it has decided it no longer wants to start on the leccy start. It still starts first or second kick, but flatly refuses to fire on the starter.

A few weeks ago I took the motor apart and cleaned it up and for a while it would start on the electric starter, it seems like the motor just does not turn it over fast enough, I have checked the motor leads and earth leads for high resistance, and it all checks out as well under 1 ohm as far as my test meter tells me.

Battery voltage is just over 13 volts with no load, so I am guessing that the motor is past it's best, perhaps the time has come to remove the leccy start after all.

[scbond2@yahoo.co.uk]

Have found so far that a vertex vp2op-3-1 works my starter ok

steve

[TimBell1962]

Or you stall it in gear in a queue and realise you can't find neutral...

They have neutral?

[Steve Brown]

Oh yes, a number of them and mostly not where you expect it to be.

[BumbleBee]

How many ohms across the starter relay?

And is the circuit that pulls the relay in, pulling it in 100%?

[Andy_C]

How many ohms across the starter relay?

And is the circuit that pulls the relay in, pulling it in 100%?

No more that 0.2 ohms between battery and starter motor - checked with my multimeter

Pulling in 100% ? As far as I can tell, there is a good solid click and as I say aroind 0.2 Ohm

[julianharty]

Could you run jump leads from your 1200 Triumph Speedmaster or any available car/van and try that?

Also try monitoring the battery's voltage when the starter motor is turning (you might find a second person helpful depending on how many hands you need to coordinate to hold the meter leads, jump leads, multimeter leads, and press the starter button?) If you're brave you could bypass the solenoid relay and apply power to the +ve lead to the starter motor - there are various risks doing this including not being able to disconnect the power lead if it 'welds' itself on, etc.

Also see if you can guesstimate how quickly the engine turns over when using the electric start vs. the kickstart. You might hear the difference in speed and this might provide clues on where to investigate next.

Good luck and please post updates here as someone may be able to help with the diagnosis and fix(es).

[BumbleBee]

...a new battery - Yuasa YT12B-BS which is good enough ?

I would have thought a 12 Ampere hour battery would be capable, we have a 14 Ampere hour battery in ours.
While Ampere hours (capacity) is important, what is perhaps more important is CCA or Cold Cranking Amps (electrical flow rate) so maybe find out the CCA of the battery you have bought. Different makes/models of 12 Ah batteries can have different CCA outputs. Too low a CCA value could be your problem.

[Andy_C]

Yuasa YT12B-BS CCA = 210A.

According to reviews on the Tayna website, people have used them in Triumph Sprint 1050, Thruxton 900, Yam Diversion 600 and Kawa ZX10 all of which I would imagine need more grunt to turn over than the Morini - but happy to stand corrected.

The starter is currently off the bike and will be for some time while I investigate the lack of compression issue, once I have that sorted I will get back to the starter, of course that could be the problem, the low compression.

Anyway will keep you posted as requested.