Morini virgin

SimonM · Post by **SimonM** » 11 Jun 2007 10:02

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post as I have recently aquired myself a 3Â½ Sport after wanting one for a *very long* time. The bike is an Italian import (as yet unregistered in UK) K1 model bought as a non runner. 3potjohn, it looks identical to the bike you bought off ebay. In fact, I was also bidding on the bike you won but you beat me to it

.

Anyway, on getting the bike home I stripped, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs with a new gasket kit and new needles. Changed the oil, flushed the petrol tank, put some fresh fuel in and lo and behold the bike fired up second kick. It seems to run nicely with no nasty noises or smoke. However, the exhaust is blowing really badly from the front pot so I took it off the bike to find that there was only one half ring and this was situated between the gasket and the exhaust rather than between the ferrule and the exhaust. New bits have just arrived from NLM (who I feel are going to do very well out of me in the coming months). Â£60 plus vat for two exhaust ferrule / nuts! So, after work its off to the garage to refit the newly de-rusted and painted Valentini 2 into 1 exhaust.

I have a couple of other problems that need to be addressed.

The sump plug seems to be brass and is quite rounded from previous attempts to remove it. I cannot for the life of me get it to budge and have now rounded it to the point where I feel I may be in trouble. I eventually changed the oil by removing the filter cover and filter then tilting the bike to get the dregs out of the sump. Any ideas on getting the sump plug out? I have a replacement sump plug and washer ready and waiting.

Cambelt replacement. As I have no idea of the history of the bike and do not know how long it has been standing unused I thought it wise to change the cambelt, though it looks OK and has no nicks or tears. Just received a genuine replacement and a flywheel puller from NLM but I don't have the special tool to hold the flywheel in order to undo the nut. Is it OK to put the bike in gear and have someone step on the rear brake? Or is it better to get hold of the special tool?

Tyres. The ones fitted look pretty old though they do have legal tread. I am going to change them both just to be on the safe side. I read with interest the comments on here and on the 500 forum with respect to tyres and sizes. The tyres fitted are tubed though I would like to fit tubless if possible. Is this OK or will I need to source tyres and tubes? Bridgestone web site recommends 90/90 18 ((51H)TL ) front and 4/ 18 ((64H)TL ) rear so I guess I will go for these sizes even though the dunlops fitted are 100/90 front and 110/90 rear. What tyres do people here run?

Thanks for listening.

Simon.

robinh44 · Post by **robinh44** » 11 Jun 2007 10:24

Simon

Welcome to the group, sounds like you have got a bit of work on yours hands. I am rebuilding a Kanguro currently and have a similar situation with the sump plug, I also have a replacement plug ready to go and was planning to use some 'stilsons' which is like a plumbers wrench as it grips as you try to undo or tighten depending which way round it is. You could always try mole grips but they may slide of and make bolt worse. Regarding the cam belt I used a combination of a strap wrench ( oil filter removing tool) and a large screwdriver jammed in the cooling fins (not good practise). I did intend to weld up a tool but have been busy with other jobs on project. Good luck with yours, mine is due on the road by this Thursday!! and I still need to rewire it.

Regards

Robin

3potjohn · Post by **3potjohn** » 11 Jun 2007 13:52

Hi Simon- I am sorry that I beat you to the draw.It doesn't happen much on Ebay these days,not that I have attempted to buy anything other than BMW bits and clothing in the past.
Having just lost my virginity a couple of weeks ago I am still in a sort of daze,wondering if I liked it or not. I have spent the whole weekend in the garage poking and probing, cleaning ,painting,re routing the wiring etc. I am pleased with the simple way of working on the bike. I think it will a rewarding ride. I know pretty much everything about BMW twins and there's loads on the net but there is much less info about our new bikes.
I have just dashed outside to look at the sump as I have not changed the oil as the PO had assured me he had just done it and indeed the oil looked new on the dipstick. He said had not done any long journeys since rebuilding it.This I believe as after coming along M3 A303 etc there was some water/emulsion vapour in the breather tubes.
My sump plug appears to be utterly sound. When I come to do the oil maybe next week anyway I shall bear your problems in mind and ensure I have a well fitting socket.
You will probably be glad to know that not everything on this bike is as I would like so there is plenty to keep me occupied.
Will be coming past you on Thursday en route to BMW Vintage do in Pembs. Listen out for that famous clunky gearbox!

huub · Post by **huub** » 12 Jun 2007 07:57

hi simon,

you can drop the bike on its side (of course remove battery and petrol tank) , and file/grind the head on the sump plug until it fits a smaller socket.
a car parts shop should be able to provide the same plug in good old steel, wich i think is a good upgrade...

huub

SimonM · Post by **SimonM** » 12 Jun 2007 08:33

huub wrote:hi simon,

you can drop the bike on its side (of course remove battery and petrol tank) , and file/grind the head on the sump plug until it fits a smaller socket.
a car parts shop should be able to provide the same plug in good old steel, wich i think is a good upgrade...

huub

Yes, agreed, I think this is the only way. I tried to file some new flats with the bike upright but it is very awkward. Already have a replacement sump plug and washer and the plug is steel. Hopefully I won't have to do this again in the future.

EVguru · Post by **EVguru** » 12 Jun 2007 11:08

You can clean up the sump plug, but if your're going to replace it, then driving it round with a hammer and cold chisel is very effective. At this point I have to search for my special 'drifting' chisel, becuase all my other cold chisels are kept very sharp for metal cutting and will probably just take the side off what I'm tring to turn.

Whatever you do, applying some heat will help a lot. I use a hot air paint stripper. With a selection of nozzles it's much more controllable and safer than a blow torch. If you direct most of the heat into the cases rather than the plug, that helps. I sometimes resort to a can of freezer spray (Maplins sell it on the highstreet), which can get you out of all sorts of trouble.

I've got an air impact wrench, so only need to grip the flywheel by hand. One of the cheap battery powered jobs they sell for getting wheel nuts off should do if you don't have a compressor. Note that you should NEVER use the impact wrenches operated by hitting them with a hammer, you will wreck your crank bearings. Putting the flywheel back on I do put the bike in gear (top) and use the back brake. I also use a torque wrench. The 'special tool' need be nothing more than a couple of strips of metal, joined at one end by a bolt and two longer bolts at the other end to act as pins to fit the flywheel holes.

Morinis other than Darts and Kanguaros are quite kind on their tires and they'll often go hard before they wear out. You really can't go wrong with 90/90 front and 100 or 110/90 rear in either Avon Roadrunner, or Bridgestone BT45 acording to personal preference/prejudice. I've found a 100/90 front tends to make the bike fall into slow corners (irritating around town) and doesn't offer any advantage. With most manufacturers the Morini rim is now outside the recommended fitment range for a 100/90. Start with the manufactureres tire pressures (usually quite high) and work down.

SimonM · Post by **SimonM** » 12 Jun 2007 12:00

EVguru wrote: Whatever you do, applying some heat will help a lot. I use a hot air paint stripper. With a selection of nozzles it's much more controllable and safer than a blow torch. If you direct most of the heat into the cases rather than the plug, that helps. I sometimes resort to a can of freezer spray (Maplins sell it on the highstreet), which can get you out of all sorts of trouble.

I've got an air impact wrench, so only need to grip the flywheel by hand. One of the cheap battery powered jobs they sell for getting wheel nuts off should do if you don't have a compressor. Note that you should NEVER use the impact wrenches operated by hitting them with a hammer, you will wreck your crank bearings. Putting the flywheel back on I do put the bike in gear (top) and use the back brake. I also use a torque wrench. The 'special tool' need be nothing more than a couple of strips of metal, joined at one end by a bolt and two longer bolts at the other end to act as pins to fit the flywheel holes.

Thanks for the tips Paul.

I have at my disposal both a hot air stripper and a compressor. Tried heating the crankcases around the sump plug (after draining the oil through the filter cover) but I couldn't get enough purchase with a drift with the bike upright. So I will try again with the bike laid over this evening.

Regarding tyres, is it OK to run tubless tyres on Morini cast rims? Or do people use inner tubes in tubeless tyres. I noticed last night that the front wheel has a rather large ding in the rim on one side. Looks like I'll have to source a replacement front wheel too. This is getting expensive

Simon.

EVguru · Post by **EVguru** » 12 Jun 2007 13:14

The rims aren't designed for tubless tyres, so just run tubes.

In theory there are TL (tubeless) and TT (tube type) tyres, but in reality everybody just uses TL tyres with a tube.

The tube will cause the tyre to generate more heat at a given load and speed and will in theory drop the speed rating. Morinis are light however and the tyres are speed rated at full load, so don't worry.

If the rim has 'spread' where the ding is, then I've brought them nearly back to perfect with fitted hardwood blocks and a large vice.

If you do need a wheel, then I'm sure someone here or on the Morini email list will have a spare. All the cast front wheels are the same size (different colours or shades though!), even the 125 and 250's.

SimonM · Post by **SimonM** » 12 Jun 2007 14:11

Ding maybe the wrong word. It's kind of pushed out along the bead on one side. Here, see for yourself :

http://www.gixxer.myzen.co.uk/Morini/FrontRim1.jpg
http://www.gixxer.myzen.co.uk/Morini/FrontRim2.jpg

Reckon that can be made good?

Thanks,

Simon.

3potjohn · Post by **3potjohn** » 12 Jun 2007 20:21

That wheel is an italian boat anchor by the looks. I hope you get it sorted soon.

EVguru · Post by **EVguru** » 13 Jun 2007 09:36

That's exactly the damage I was thinking of.

If you were simply to squeeze the rim together in a big vice (with jaw protectors) you'd take most of the damage out. Good enough for MOT standard anyway. The rims are quite soft and bend rather than crack for minor damage.

SimonM · Post by **SimonM** » 15 Jun 2007 07:55

Making some progress

I managed to swap the mangled sump plug for a nice new steel one. The old one came out quite easily in the end with the aid of a drift. Much easier when you have the bike on its side for better access.

I also have the new cambelt installed. Borrowed an air impact driver to remove the flywheel nut and from there it was an easy job. I was careful to mark the stator plate before dismantling and used the technique I read about on here (cut the old belt in half lengthways, push the new belt up to the old one before cutting the old one and pushing new belt home). The bike started when I put everything back together anyway. I read somewhere that the age of manufacture of the belts is stamped on them. The old one was marked morini and had M6. Anyone know what that translates to?

Now its just the wheel damage to sort. I will see what I can do using your vice suggestion over the weekend.

Thanks for all the tips so far.