Me again...having just recovered from messing around with the clutch to fix that oil leak I am now trying to cure another leak which has been around for quite a while.....The right hand side crank seal behind the cam belt drive pulley. Its leaking from there, only a little but builds up then drips onto exhaust causing smoking. Alarming for other customers at the motorway filling stations when I pull up and clouds of smoke start billowing from around the engine.
I was told that the crank oil seal doesn't have a circlip so it can move outwards - whether this is true or not I don't know but you can't really get at the oil seal because its largely hidden behind the flange washer behind the cam pulley. Is a special puller required to remove this? I made some attempts but just ended up defeated. considering popping into NLM to get it done when I'm in the midlands next weekend but would prefer to avoid the cost. Any suggestions? Prior knowledge? advice?
Cam pulley
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George 350
- Posts: 560
- Joined: 16 Jun 2007 09:43
- Location: Northampton
Oil seal removal:
Short of splitting the cases and knocking the seal out from behind, there are several ways you can do this without too much hassle.
One is to use a small hook (the bent over end of an 'electrical' screwdriver is ideal) which you hook between the shaft and seal lip such that the hook goes up behing the seal, and a sharp tug should have the seal out.
Alternatively, If you don't want to mess up a perfectly goog screwdriver, then drilling a couple of small holes (approx 1mm dia) through the seal near its outer edge, screwing in a couple of small self tapping screws, and pull/lever on the screw heads and out will come the seal. Because of the rubber on the seal, virtually no swarf will go inside, and a quick rinse with brake cleaner will have the case/seal bore ready for reassembly.
George
Short of splitting the cases and knocking the seal out from behind, there are several ways you can do this without too much hassle.
One is to use a small hook (the bent over end of an 'electrical' screwdriver is ideal) which you hook between the shaft and seal lip such that the hook goes up behing the seal, and a sharp tug should have the seal out.
Alternatively, If you don't want to mess up a perfectly goog screwdriver, then drilling a couple of small holes (approx 1mm dia) through the seal near its outer edge, screwing in a couple of small self tapping screws, and pull/lever on the screw heads and out will come the seal. Because of the rubber on the seal, virtually no swarf will go inside, and a quick rinse with brake cleaner will have the case/seal bore ready for reassembly.
George
George
350 Sport 1978, 350 Strada 1978
650 Norton 1967, 650 Kawasaki 1977 and 650 Enfield 2019
350 Sport 1978, 350 Strada 1978
650 Norton 1967, 650 Kawasaki 1977 and 650 Enfield 2019
The rear belt flange should be easy to remove, but the pulley itself should be quite a tight fit. If it's not you risk it wearing the crank. To get the pulley off you first remove the circlip, spring and outer flange. You then put on a large thick washer and retain it with the circlip. You can now use a puller to remove the pulley. Occasionally you see the required washers being sold on ebay, but they're easy to make if you've got access to a lathe (try your local model engineering society). The washer should be as thick as possible.
You should check the crank for movement. One cause of leaks from the timing side seal is a worn main bearing.
You should check the crank for movement. One cause of leaks from the timing side seal is a worn main bearing.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru