MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com Member: g7AW3f

Hi All,

I am an Aussie who has just purchased a low mileage 3 1/2 Sport which is a late 1973 model.

It appears to be in reasonable condition and may have been dropped at one stage in its life and then left to sit therefore very low mileage (6700).

Previous owners have given her a clean up and a repaint of the tank and side panels, I have currently been doing minor cosmetic work to tidy her up more. I will one day pull the motor out and redo the frame but it is fine for the time being.

I need to give her a good tune and service, I have found when riding her she loses power as you open the throttle which feels like the carbies are too rich, I have pulled them apart and found that they had different needle settings....apparently the chap previously had pod filters on her and the last owner changed it back but didn't touch the carby settings.

I also found loose screws and broken gaskets, so I have oredered some service kits for the carbies and will overhaul them. I also located a new belt and will change that as well. On the question of oil...what is the best grade oil to utilise??

She did start first or second kick when I originally received her and handled nicely. I am considering changing the rear shocks....possibly to Ikon although they do seem ok. The front forks have been redone and fine.

The brakes are good and work very well....impressed with the drum front and rear brakes.

I am considering a set of Tarozzi rearsets, which I will purchase from the chap here as he has modified them a little to suit this model.

I have fitted a new tail light and ordered a new fuel cap the original is a little rusty.

I have ordered some items from NLM and they have been very helpful. The bike has had the Lucas electronic AB11 ignition system fitted. The tacho is not connected but I think that I just need to connect the grey wire from the tacho to the negative side of the coil.

The wiring is a challenge and if I do pull her down I would consider redoing a complete new wiring loom.

I am only chasing a new Fiamm horn as the original one only works when you tap her, unless there is some trick and you pull it down to repair. The only other item I am seeking is an original exhaust heat shield. the bike has had a Staintune after market exhaust system fitted. It is in good order and they make a good system which looks similair to the original but doesn't have the seams on the mufflers.

Anyway I have rambled enough so any ideas on things I need to consider or help with the items I am seeking I thank you in advance.

Take Care

Brett

Hi Brett - you lucky person. Can you post some photos?

The oil should be 10/40W semi-synthetic. I found a second-hand heat shield for my drum Strada on Ebay which I won for £9 and got re-chromed, and I have seen Fiamm horns on Ebay too. Try the French, German, Dutch and Italian Ebay sites as well.

You're already aware of NLM - Rob who looks after spares is very helpful and they have a lot of second-hand stuff too.

Regards, Mark.

Hi Brett,

There are a few pockets of Morini ownership in Oz that I know of. There are a few of us on the Sunshine Coast in Queensland and Melbourne has a few bikes that I know of too. The Festival of Italian Motorcycles had a number turn up there.

A ride report on my Guzzi and a link on there to some Italian bikes including Morini pics.

http://guzzista.wetpaint.com/page/Qld+t ... +FOIM+2010

Oil? There is an opening on the dreaded oil thread. I use an older 20W50 because I live in a warm climate but if you want to use 10W40 I'd be tempted to use diesel oil. Made to withstand higher temperatures and higher pressures so the old flat tappets should have something to glide on.

If you really want to get paranoid then google 'ZDDP' and 'flat tappet.' I won't comment any further on oil.

Congratulations on your purchase.

Rod

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the comments.

Interesting reading on the oils, I was looking at mineral around the 20/50W type of oil but I will check for the zinc level also.

I have been hunting the ebays for the parts but they haven't turned up of late. I also spoke to Stuart from NLM but he didn't have any second hand parts.

I will keep hunting....when I have her back together I will post some piccies.

Cheers

Brett

Sint AGIP 2000 was what Morini specified later on and is semi-synthetic 10W40. The originally specified 20W50 was the best oil available at the time, but things change and I'm pretty sure NLM don't use anything except semi-synth 10W40.

If you read the reports of tappet trouble a bit more closely and make sure you've got the original source and not a re-hash, you'll find it's only really applicable to engines with high tappet loads. Mostly this is American V8 with their large valves that need strong springs to control them. The only UK engine I've heard of that seems to give problems is tuned versions of the BMC 'B' series. In any case, one of the advantages of synthetic oils is their superior film strength which prevents metal to metal contact. The purpose of the Zinc additives is to deposit an anti wear coating only when metal to metal contact has occoured. High levels of Zinc cause deposits in the combustion chamber and accelerated wear of cylinders and guides.

Morini tappets generally exhibit a mirror finish and very low rates of wear.

Modern fuel makes some bikes run a bit rich at the bottom end. Dropping down to a 43 Idle jet is often worth doing to get rid of the stumble coming off idle. The next richer atomiser often helps get rid of a flat spot in the mid range.

The tachomoeter is designed to work with the original CDI ignition boxes and is unlikely to work with your Lucas Ignition.

The AB11 is a wasted spark system. Due to the uneven firing angle of a V twin, it's not unheard of for this to cause melted pistons if a cylinder runs lean for some reason. The original ignition system in good condition works just fine, my bike certainly starts easily and pulls to an indicated 10,000 or so with standard kit. The Morini ignition and charging systems are unusual and have often been replaced simply because they are not understood.

EVguru wrote:Sint AGIP 2000 was what Morini specified later on and is semi-synthetic 10W40. The originally specified 20W50 was the best oil available at the time, but things change and I'm pretty sure NLM don't use anything except semi-synth 10W40.

Is a full synthetic a no-no on a Morini - other than cost? There's no wet clutch (well there shouldn't be) to worry about.

72degrees wrote: Is a full synthetic a no-no on a Morini - other than cost? There's no wet clutch (well there shouldn't be) to worry about.

I don't think so, just an unnecessary expense. I tend to use Halfords own brand oil, often stocking up if it's on special. I'm pretty sure I've used their full synthetic without any problems before.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info on the oil I was going to just run a mineral 20/50W type of oil.

The info on the AB11 Lucas is the same as what Stuart mentioned about the extra spark. I have all of the original electronic ignition boxes, just not sure why the previous owner removed them, I will call him and find out exactly.

Stuart did mention they use another system now as the previous owner did purchase the AB11 from NLM some years back.

Is there a reason why the tacho is unlikely to work with the AB11? Looking at the wiring the suggestion is to run it to the negative on the coil, which is white/back wire.

I haven't tried it yet as I just drained the oil yesterday and have to go and go and purchase some.

I checked the cam belt yesterday and it appears to be fine no visible signs of wear, but in the process of replacing engine bolts I found the bolts holding the tappet covers on were extemely loose.....a bit like the carbies.

These loose bolts and screws could explain the running of the bike at highter revs.

They are a lovely bike.

Any further info is greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Brett