MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com Member: g7AW3f

I had a noise on my 350 a while back and started to investigate. I hoped i'd find something. Thus far i have the crankcases to split. I think there may be an issue with the rear big end. Anyhow as far as memory serves ( I have only had a 350 motor apart once and that was around 2008) I need to be able to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to pull the cases,leaving everything in the LHS.
Assuming this to be correct, I tried unsuccessfully using a puller on a stout washer retained by the circlip. Well all i achieved on 1st attempt was bending the circlip and washer.
Am I correct in saying I need to remove the right hand case, rather than the left hand side, or am i confused, and has anyone got an idea for removing the pulley.
it has a roller main convertion if that's relevant.

Typos in original post due to dodgy keyboard,
John

the timing side pulley can be a very tight fit especially if its been on a while, I had to use heat and a very thick washer and a three legged puller applying the heat then tightening the puller a bit at a time once it moved a bit it came off fairly easy its propably the Loctite on the shaft which is stopping you, a couple of spare circlips is a good idea as they don't take much to knacker, hope this is of some help, muller.

You don't need to take the pulley off to get the crank out, it will come out complete with pulley and oil seal.

It can then be easier to get heat to the pulley if it's very tight.

You should use something to protect the centre in the crank from the puller, otherwise it may cost extra to recover the centre if you have the crank ground.

Today was the first chance i had to look at the crankcases and contents in a bit of daylight with no wind or rain....
The left hand side of the crank easily came out of the left hand main bearing-it was a sliding fit.no difficulty whatever. Don't know if this is good or bad.
The right hand side is currently still in-situ as i have yet to try and either have another go at removing the pulley,now soaked in plus-gas, or drive it out of a hot case with the bearing. I am worried about this in case I still cannot remove the pulley as my so called thick washer din't fit very well and bent the circlip.
The right hand bearing was converted to a roller in 2008. I know it is not all done up tight but there seems to be a bit of play and i can slide the crankshaft in and out and waggle it up and down on it's journal-which I was not expecting-again no idea if this is correct-sorry to be a bit dim as I've been riding around on old beemers for 20 years and never have to look at the bottom ends.
Finally dissembled the big ends looked at the shells, one set definately has a score . I measured the diameter of the big end journals (OK it was with an Aldi caliper) and got 29.60mm but cannot find a reference as to the expected sizes,unless I missed this in the blue book.
I have some of that plastigauge stuff so guess I can try this but am unsure of the journal specifications nor indeed what all this ease of end float means.
I think that it may prove to be the source of my problems, rather than any wear in the top end.
If anyone can give any advice I'd be very grateful.

the left hand main bearing should be a snug sliding fit on the crank so that sounds ok , not totaly sure on the timing side but you say its been converted to a conventional roller type bearing so same should apply , the end float in the crank will be taken out when you tighten the nut on the left side the one that holds the primary drive gear , i have the later plain bearing on the timing side on later sport, so no expert on the conversion, on the big ends some score marks are inevitable mesh filter etc , 2 thou imperial using the plastigauge is ok check the small ends while your at it , i would try and remove the timing pulley rather than use force i have a washer if you need one , go steady you will sort it. muller

Thanks for the advice-I think I can manage but there's an uneasy memory-you see in my formative youth I had a 1973 BSA A65,must have been about the last one, into which I attempted to drift in a new bearing only for a circle of alloy to come off the back of the bearing housing. Luckily was living in Swindon at the time (well I say "luckily) so it didn't take long to find somebody to weld it up. Then I had aT160 and the con rod bolt came off at approx 115mph. The rnew barrels required cost £45 AND I had to take in the sporting spectacular that is watching Aston Villa to appease the chap giving me a lift up to Brum. Awful.


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