crankshaft etc

[3potjohn]

New thread-old topic I just spelled it correctly this time.
Crankshaft-on this 350K .Big end journals 29.60mm (wth my Aldi caliper)so after delving around I believe this equates to 2nd and final undersize? Only other measuring tools i have is plastigauge.
main bearing-left hand.Journal is easy sliding fit,Crank just lifted out of the bearing. Are they ever like this? Possibly some colouration on the journal pehaps reflecting this?
main bearing rhs-a convertion done 2008.have yet to get this out due to pinion stuck, no decent thick washer available and lack of time. Seems to be some movement on crank in-situ but as mentioned on my other thread this could be due to lack of left hand case/bearing allowing some excessive end float.
I think I may be in a bad place! Any suggestions!

[72degrees]

I was dreading the timing pinion removal stage on my work in progress 77 350 rebuild, but it came off quite easily after a couple of heat/Plusgas cycles using a thick washer and two leg puller. The crank was, however, very reluctant to push out of the main bearing on the drive side (once I'd finally managed to remove the primary drive/oil pump gear nut) and was a very tight fit in the new bearing when it came time to refit it after a regrind and timing side roller bearing conversion.

I haven't got the cases back together yet as I'm trying to find better condition bushes for a couple of the gears, so can't comment on end float with a 'known good' set of crank bearings.

[mad muller]

standard crank pin 32mm ,the primary drive bearing is a wopper of a size and carries most of the forces, the crank should have no end float once the primary gear nut is torqued up if it has youve got probs, you wont know till you put the two engine halfs together the crank should be a sliding fit inside the main bearing. hope this helps, as for the villa well !

[72degrees]

Mine didn't snug up to the drive side main bearing inner race fully until I put the primary drive and oil pump gear back on tightly. Until then it was binding up with the crankcase screws tight. Nice and free now everything has been tightened up properly, to my relief.

[3potjohn]

I could not get the pinion off the crank, and had to get some suitable thick washers to try again and pull it off. I soaked the splines in plus-gas for a few days.
Today after incubation in the Creda oven a smart smack with the plastic mallet on the crank and it popped off as the crank went through the roller bearing. I didn't need those thick washers after all. it has a clear punch mark so no worries with valve timing issues.
I got the smaller blind gearbox bearing out using a rawlbolt and all the others from the cases came out after cooking so success. I've flushed all the muck out of the crank with copious carb spray and degreaser. A characteristic miasma in the kitchen didn't go undetected!
The left hand main bearing had some witness marks on it's peripheral face. At my local bearing supplier today it was suggested this might have been due to a bit of "chatter" rather outright spinning of the outer race. I'll check the fit of the new bearings, which I can cool on dry ice to fit into warm cases but wonder if it's worth a smear of loctite 603 when refitting.
The expensive roller bearing (converted in 2008) looks to run smooth, and i cannot see any damage but I'm wondering if it is a false economy not to renew it?
I need to double check the big end journals but think it's 2nd undersize already.
And to think I was only worrying about the top end..........

[72degrees]

I need to double check the big end journals but think it's 2nd undersize already.
And to think I was only worrying about the top end..........

Cross your fingers that the conrod big end eyes haven't gone oval.