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I need a right side metal side plate. Paint doesn't matter. I will repaint. I will pay a fair price and take care of shipping to the us.

2nd - how do I remove the bearings in the hubs? If you can include a link to a how to, that would be great.

Mark@markepstein.net

You have to be careful with the rear bearings as there is a 'sleeve'/shoulder in the centre of the bearing & is part of the bearing spacer. All I did was get a very, very good fit bar & drifted it out & one bearing out.
The idea way is to use a press. hydraulic/fly. Use the old bearings to fit the new ones.
Top axle is rear.
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These shields are not required when you fit double shielded bearings
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I found fitting new bearings to the front on the speedo drive side to be particularly awkward/tight.

Q: What is this RHS metal plate?

The red and black painted side panel. I don't want a fiberglass reproduction. Thanks, Mark

Part # M370216P

There are so many models, you'd better post a pic of the one you do have.
DD

Hi, What has been said about the rears is good advice. Presses do help keep things controlled, but if you don't have access then the following will help.
Depending on whether you want to build up a really useful workshop of tools or not, then one of these can be a good investment: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bearing-Puller ... 03HYFQ0ELE. Other sources /makes are available.

For the front wheel bearings:
If you have a model with cast wheels, then there can be a build up of corrosion outside of the bearing on the speedo drive side that makes the bearing particularly tight to remove, and in extreme cases it can 'burst' the speedo drive gear wheel when you do move it.
The best thing to do is to use a 'Dremel' or similar to remove any powder coat and /or corrosion from the hole outside of the bearing first. This may also apply to spoked disc hubs and drums too, but as I haven't ever worked on those I don't know.

Next, If you don't have a bearing puller, the following works quite well. Do the non speedo drive side first - its bore is shorter and you can then drift out the right hand bearing much more easily.
On the cast wheel models there is a large circlip to retain the LHS bearing. Don't forget to remove this first. The same comments about corrosion in the bearing bore as for the speedo side still apply, but usually it isn't so serious.
Using a lever, push the internal spacer to one side so that you can get to the inner edge of the bearing, then with sharp ended drift and a series of firm 'whacks' with a hammer (working your way around the bearing so that it comes out 'square' to the hole, the bearing will come out fairly cleanly.
Then, using a drift that is larger than the spindle, (some people will resort to a large socket and an extension bar, but I don't like abusing my tools....) you can persuade the right hand bearing out of its seat. The same comments of keeping it 'square to the hole' apply and it is important as the hole is much longer.

For refitting, put the bearings into the freezer the night before and they should go into their holes without any drama.
Hope that this helps.

George.

All great advice of the previous posters.

I faced the same problems only a month or so ago. In particular the front wheel bearing on the speedo drive side was a real barsteward to get out even with lots of heat.
The problem as I see it is you are trying to heat two different metals: the cast allow of the wheel and the cold steel of the speedo drive. Obviously the steel needs more heat to expand before allowing the bearing to free and therein lies the problem. Time and patience will get you there but be careful not to knock off the inner wheel surfaces as you bang out the bearing.

The inner bearing puller set would imo be a great investment.
HTH
Archie

I seem to think all I did was put an expanding wall anchor bolt (Rawlbolt) into the bearing,tightened it to grip the inner race,poured boiling water over the lot and knocked it out.
Seemed to work. i replaced with sealed bearings.