fitting rear sets at this moment - on brake side the bolt that screws into the swing arm pin seems far too long and won't screw in enough to close the gap up- have other people found this - do i just shorten the bolt or am i doing something wrong? thanks - duncan -
well shortened the bolt and am continuing - all seems well apart from the inline cable switch - one - its the other way around to all the pictures on the nlm web site - connections facing down-making the fitting of wires awkward and the other problem is that it only lights under high pressure on the brake lever and therefore i would suspect only under heavy breaking. i wouild prefer it to light with only a dab of the foot so it can indicate when i am braking when relying mostly on the front brake- are others like this or do i have a bad one ?
thanks - duncan
fitting rear sets
continued - got to fitting the kick start which turned out to be one of the hardest bits - finally got the kickstart fitted and found it fouled the brake lever so as this website suggested had to saw off one ring which i resent as well as the hours spent filing down the nut on the cable holder.
anyway used the kickstart again and found it had gone floppy - removed it and it seems the ball bearing had sunk into the hole in the kick start extender - now i am sure that the little spring is in there but my primary problem is getting the ball bearing out as it seem wedged solid -- if i put it in the oven will they expand at different rates - any other suggestions?
it all seemed so easy ?
duncan
anyway used the kickstart again and found it had gone floppy - removed it and it seems the ball bearing had sunk into the hole in the kick start extender - now i am sure that the little spring is in there but my primary problem is getting the ball bearing out as it seem wedged solid -- if i put it in the oven will they expand at different rates - any other suggestions?
it all seemed so easy ?
duncan
dunk
Fitting rear sets
I have experienced some of your challenges!
The switch does only activate under high pressure, and as the bike doesn't have a brake light on front brake, you have to brake HARD to get rear brake on... not always what you want to be doing. The switch faces down for me but I dont seem to have a challenge with the wires that you have.
I needed to get a new ball-bearing... take the extender to a bicycle shop and buy a pack of appropriate ball bearings (for pennies). Alternatively, get a new NLM kickstart, I really didn't like (aesthetically) the extender block. The fancy kickstart they sell looks GREAT. Have you sprayed plus gas into the ball bearing hole?
Also, when fitted as per instructions, the brake pedal was at a very strange angle to use (too far down), so I cut the spring off above the cable attachment clevis and also cut back the exhaust manifold heatshield by about 1.5 cms. Its just below a horizontal plane with the footpeg now.
Its all part of the fun of Morini ownership!
The switch does only activate under high pressure, and as the bike doesn't have a brake light on front brake, you have to brake HARD to get rear brake on... not always what you want to be doing. The switch faces down for me but I dont seem to have a challenge with the wires that you have.
I needed to get a new ball-bearing... take the extender to a bicycle shop and buy a pack of appropriate ball bearings (for pennies). Alternatively, get a new NLM kickstart, I really didn't like (aesthetically) the extender block. The fancy kickstart they sell looks GREAT. Have you sprayed plus gas into the ball bearing hole?
Also, when fitted as per instructions, the brake pedal was at a very strange angle to use (too far down), so I cut the spring off above the cable attachment clevis and also cut back the exhaust manifold heatshield by about 1.5 cms. Its just below a horizontal plane with the footpeg now.
Its all part of the fun of Morini ownership!
thanks -Stuart - it isn't really a problem getting the switch wired it just seems a little strange having the wires doubling back on themselves. The cable I got didn't come with a spring above the cable location clevis and as the heat shield is one of the shorter ones i managed to get a relatively level position anyway.
the ball bearing has just come out in the oven and yes the spring was there - so i need a new - larger ? ball bearing or a longer stronger spring ?
the extender block was basically the cheaper option.
thanks -Duncan
the ball bearing has just come out in the oven and yes the spring was there - so i need a new - larger ? ball bearing or a longer stronger spring ?
the extender block was basically the cheaper option.
thanks -Duncan
dunk
Possibly both.. A slightly larger ball bearing shouldn't get jammed in the hole.dunk 1 wrote:...the ball bearing has just come out in the oven and yes the spring was there - so i need a new - larger ? ball bearing or a longer stronger spring ?...
If it didn't fit in the available space I guess you could maybe countersink the entrance to the hole slightly?
Perhaps you could put a little spacer behind the spring to save trying to find a longer one?
It certainly does!stuart wrote:The fancy kickstart they sell looks GREAT.
Anyone know how much they cost?
Jenny.
NLM Swan-neck kickstart
Its about £95.. (I traded in my 'kickstart displacer block' which I'd just fitted and didnt like it, so emotionally it cost me £95 less £26)
!