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That's the way I do it. I thought more towards 50v was desirable, but if it has already been rewound and the rotor has good magnetism hard to see why output might be low. Have you got a dedicated earth leaf from the frame to as crankcase through bolt? Also worth checking the earth points for the transducers.

72degrees wrote: ↑03 Sep 2023 08:53 That's the way I do it. I thought more towards 50v was desirable, but if it has already been rewound and the rotor has good magnetism hard to see why output might be low. Have you got a dedicated earth leaf from the frame to as crankcase through bolt? Also worth checking the earth points for the transducers.

Hi Again and thanks for your speedy reply- very kind. Yes 50V would be much better...maybe the rewind hasn't worked or magnetism not strong enough.
Earth- "dedicated earth leaf from the frame to a crankcase" - which earth are you meaning please?

The transducer's earth to frame at either side of the headstock - they are strong and clean I believe.
I am wondering if I should buy new ignition and charging system such a Mdina sells but really want o be sure this will fix issue as it will cost £500+...with coils
Thanks again- Matt

The crankcase earths via the engine mountings to some extent, but at least on my 250 there is a lead from a bolt in the frame to one of the crankcase bolts. I have made the earth leads from the transducers join the same position on the frame but that is not so practical on a 350 where the transducers are under the tank. Still worth checking that there is a good conducting connection from crankcase to frame though.

72degrees wrote: ↑04 Sep 2023 08:11 The crankcase earths via the engine mountings to some extent, but at least on my 250 there is a lead from a bolt in the frame to one of the crankcase bolts. I have made the earth leads from the transducers join the same position on the frame but that is not so practical on a 350 where the transducers are under the tank. Still worth checking that there is a good conducting connection from crankcase to frame though.

Thanks for this info - I will check.

Hi All on this thread +
George Lane has discovered my spark coil was about half the size it should be so rewound it the correct size and my bike starts fine now!! Thank you George and also to all of you here who discussed what my non starting+ problems might be. The coil had been rewound by West Country Windings early on when the bike wouldn't start/run reliably but they had reduced the size. They said it was made to a specification they used to fix them for NLM but.. In fact when I rang WCW for a refund, which I wasn't given, they sad they don't want to do any Morini coils in future! (Not because I was rude as I wasn't!). Best Matt

Good to hear you have sorted the coil. Are there any companies left providing this service or are we now reliant on helpful club members?

3potjohn wrote: ↑12 Dec 2023 19:45 Good to hear you have sorted the coil. Are there any companies left providing this service or are we now reliant on helpful club members?

A very pertinent question.

A quick google threw up these folk but I haven't made an enquiry (touches wood and glances at spare stators on shelf).

http://www.vehicle-electrical-rewinds.co.uk/

As I’ve said many times before, its not difficult to diy. The hardest part is finding a coil former. Now 3D printing is becoming more easily available even that should diminish. These are old bikes, supposedly we are enthusiasts, prepared to do a bit moer than expect off the shelf spares.

Ming wrote: ↑14 Dec 2023 06:14 As I’ve said many times before, its not difficult to diy. The hardest part is finding a coil former. Now 3D printing is becoming more easily available even that should diminish. These are old bikes, supposedly we are enthusiasts, prepared to do a bit moer than expect off the shelf spares.

A rewinding service is not exactly "off the shelf" from a dealer. The shelf I mentioned was mine Perhaps the MRC could commission at least the 3D printing of a batch of formers? A certain amount of soldering also to be done, which I freely admit I am hopeless at. I might have a bash at it on one of my spare stators which needs rewinding. It was the realisation that keeping a 1930's machine running needs skills I don't possess or access to machinery I don't have that ended my brief period of post vintage Sunbeam ownership.

If there is sufficient demand for an essential part someone will step in to do a refurbishment service or repro parts. You can even buy a new coolant pump for a Gilera Norwest now.

I see you can get one 'off the shelf' (at a HFM? price) :
https://motorradteilehannover.de/Moto-M ... ator-A2401

My problem is that for me I need to undertake a procedure myself so that I can understand it, rather than simply reading about it.Somewhat ironic really as in the latter stages of my employment, writing or reviewing Standard Operating Procedures took up a lot of my time.