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After fitting a new cambelt and adjusting the clutch lever, when I went to put the cover back on, it took a lot of moving around to get the cover screws in.

Taking a closer look at the cover and crankcase it looks like there should be dowels fitted to the cases - am I right in this assumption?

Guessing that if the dowels were fitted things would line up better.

If so, time to fire up the lathe.

Oh, and are all the screws the same length? - except for the one which is clearly a lot longer, if they are all the same length how long should they be? mine vary in length.

Thanks.

Sorry, I've just put mine back on so I can't measure the screws! Yes, there should be 2 dowels opposite each other at top left and bottom right. The screws that go through the doweled holes are approx 5mm longer than the other two which I think are 20mm or thereabouts.

Aren't there five screws? The one at the back is a lot longer.

MickeyMoto wrote: ↑29 Sep 2024 20:23 Aren't there five screws? The one at the back is a lot longer.

Yes, as you say. I ignored that one as he'd already noted it as not relevant to the dowel question. It is of course the pivot for the chain adjustment. Which is equally as brilliant as the starter gearbox and starter clutch. Actually, it IS brilliant as an example of what you can do on a zero budget when the marketing department tells you the bikes really need a starter to make the brochure more appealing. If it was todays world it would be simple with modern small motors and sturdy sprag clutches and decent batteries.
I wonder if Mr Lambertini imagines this before he goes to sleep at night? Oh no, that's my problem sorry.

It would also have battery ignition, a 300 watt alternator and fuel injection!

I find if I have disturbed the starter motor then in particular the long screw can be harder to get back in, must be a slight alignment issue I guess. Usually responds to a bit of adjusting. Mind the threads in the crankcase are cleaned out and free of any muck which you will feel when tightening the cover.
The other thing I can get is a reluctance of the shoes to turn the motor after the cover is refitted, until I have been around the block.
I think it is OK as a first attempt at adding a starter. After some effort mine usually works well.

Now I am confused - Steve mentioned of the long screw "It is of course the pivot for the chain adjustment" this has thrown me.

I thought the starter motor chain adjustment was made by the slots in the starter motor, and obviousley rear chain by the rear chain adjusters.

Have is mis understood something or is there something I need to know about the long bolt that goes through the case.

I have made some dowels now and re fitted the case, and yes the long bolt was the hardest one to screw in, I also ran a tap through the threads of the other screws as some were a bit tight going in.

I found the "right" screw length by selective assembly, i.e. a big box of assorted allen head screws.

Sorry Andy, didn't mean to add confusion! The long screw just allows the starter motor an anchor point or pivot so you can adjust the starter chain tension. Nothing to do with the rear wheel drive.

Steve - no problem, but I thought the starter chain tension was adjusted by means of the 2 slots in the mounting flanges of the starter motor gearbox.

Andy_C wrote: ↑01 Oct 2024 04:46 Steve - no problem, but I thought the starter chain tension was adjusted by means of the 2 slots in the mounting flanges of the starter motor gearbox.

You're right it does adjust on those 2 slots and pivots on the long screw at the rear of the starter motor.

Ah now I see what you mean Steve - the long bolt is the "Fulcro Motore", so I guess that when adjusting chain tension, you really need to have the long bolt through the hole in the case with a spacer and nut to hold it in possition.

That would also explain why that bolt can be a little tight if you adjust the chain without it in position.

It all makes sense now.