Faulty Stator perhaps?
Faulty Stator perhaps?
My Strada was running but not charging and the regulator was found to be duff. The stator red wire is connected direct to battery positive and I find that there is a 12 Volt potential on each of the yellow wires which connect to the regulator ( bike not running). Is this as it should be? Doen't seem right to me as the new regulator passes it straight on to the ignition circuit which is then permanently live.
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Morini Jen
- Posts: 331
- Joined: 12 Jun 2022 18:49
- Location: Warwickshire U.K.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Hello velojames.
Electrics aren't my thing and it seems that the boffins are having a break at the moment. Still, hopefully someone will be along soon to have a chat about your technical issues.
Still, welcome to the Forum.
Jenny.
Electrics aren't my thing and it seems that the boffins are having a break at the moment. Still, hopefully someone will be along soon to have a chat about your technical issues.
Still, welcome to the Forum.
Jenny.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Thank you for your kind note Jenny.
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Morini Jen
- Posts: 331
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- Location: Warwickshire U.K.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
... Thread bump...
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morini_tom
- Posts: 1076
- Joined: 05 May 2006 13:47
- Location: Northampton
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
No, doesn’t sound right to me.
Have you inspected the wiring loom to the stator to make sure you don’t have a break or melt in the wires shorting the red and yellows?
Are you sure the wires aren’t (or haven’t previously been) trapped behind the stator backplate? It’s easy to do this and nip a wire when changing the timing belt.
Note that putting 12v onto the green will fry your transducers so avoid that at all cost.
Can you perform the tests in the blue book (page 102 onwards) and let us know the readings you are getting?
Blue book can be downloaded from the members area
Have you inspected the wiring loom to the stator to make sure you don’t have a break or melt in the wires shorting the red and yellows?
Are you sure the wires aren’t (or haven’t previously been) trapped behind the stator backplate? It’s easy to do this and nip a wire when changing the timing belt.
Note that putting 12v onto the green will fry your transducers so avoid that at all cost.
Can you perform the tests in the blue book (page 102 onwards) and let us know the readings you are getting?
Blue book can be downloaded from the members area
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Thanks Tom, there are some useful points there and I will check things over as soon as I can. The bike actually runs really well so there is nothing wrong with the ignition side.
James
James
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MickeyMoto
- Posts: 2711
- Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
- Location: Even further oop North
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
There is a permanent 12 volts direct from the battery to the stator. I would suspect this would mean you will have 12 volts to earth on each yellow.
Perhaps the rectifier needs a 12 volt supply to operate the rectifier. The brown wire to the reg / rec is switched 12 volts, made live by the ignition key. I presume this is how the output is floated across the battery.
Disconnect the battery and check resistance between each yellow to red and between both yellows. That might give a clue.
Perhaps the rectifier needs a 12 volt supply to operate the rectifier. The brown wire to the reg / rec is switched 12 volts, made live by the ignition key. I presume this is how the output is floated across the battery.
Disconnect the battery and check resistance between each yellow to red and between both yellows. That might give a clue.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Thank you to both my correspondents and apologies for not always being able to reply right away.
First of all, the stator is at present off the bike and I can confirm that all wires are undamaged and in good order. The stator bobbins are not discoloured, they do not smell burnt at all and, as far as I can tell all the connecting wires between them are sound.
Obviously the running tests as in the blue book cannot be done at present, but when I first tried something like that I got a fright from smoke coming from the timing side where the stator lives. I can't remember what I was measuring or the connections to the meter - more than likely my fault entirely and this is why I want to find out more before trying again.
I confirm that there is continuity between the red wire and both yellow wires, and there is continuity between both yellow wires. With the battery connected there is indeed 12 volts to earth on each yellow wire, and when these are connected to the regulator the latter produces a 12 Volt reading on its output wire.
I could, of course, arrange for the battery to be connected only after the key is switched to ON and then take the regulator output back to the battery positive terminal. Then, if the stator is working, the voltage from the regulator would rise and charge the battery. Or have I got this quite wrong?
Actually, the essential, basic question is - is it correct that there should be a 12 Volt potential on the yellow stator wires when the battery is connected?
Apologies for the screed but I am a neophyte where electrics are concerned.
First of all, the stator is at present off the bike and I can confirm that all wires are undamaged and in good order. The stator bobbins are not discoloured, they do not smell burnt at all and, as far as I can tell all the connecting wires between them are sound.
Obviously the running tests as in the blue book cannot be done at present, but when I first tried something like that I got a fright from smoke coming from the timing side where the stator lives. I can't remember what I was measuring or the connections to the meter - more than likely my fault entirely and this is why I want to find out more before trying again.
I confirm that there is continuity between the red wire and both yellow wires, and there is continuity between both yellow wires. With the battery connected there is indeed 12 volts to earth on each yellow wire, and when these are connected to the regulator the latter produces a 12 Volt reading on its output wire.
I could, of course, arrange for the battery to be connected only after the key is switched to ON and then take the regulator output back to the battery positive terminal. Then, if the stator is working, the voltage from the regulator would rise and charge the battery. Or have I got this quite wrong?
Actually, the essential, basic question is - is it correct that there should be a 12 Volt potential on the yellow stator wires when the battery is connected?
Apologies for the screed but I am a neophyte where electrics are concerned.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Hi James, I had to look “ neophyte “ up in the dictionary. I must bring that one into my future conversations ! See you soon on my return from Devon.
Steve.
Steve.
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morini_tom
- Posts: 1076
- Joined: 05 May 2006 13:47
- Location: Northampton
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Thanks Tom, that was what I really didn't know.
Seems to me that the stator may be OK and the only way forward is to connect up, as described in the last paragraph of my previous, and see what happens. Will keep everyone posted, and thanks to all those who replied to me.
James
Seems to me that the stator may be OK and the only way forward is to connect up, as described in the last paragraph of my previous, and see what happens. Will keep everyone posted, and thanks to all those who replied to me.
James
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MickeyMoto
- Posts: 2711
- Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
- Location: Even further oop North
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Disconnect the brown wire and measure the voltage at the reg rec output. With the engine not running this should be zero.
Looking at the wiring diagram the battery +ve is connected to the stator and to the ignition switch. The brown wires only become live when the ignition is switched on. If you have 12 volts at the reg rec output with ignition off then the two left hand fuses will be live. It would indicate a duff reg rec.
I have just ventured out into the garage and confirmed the above.
Looking at the wiring diagram the battery +ve is connected to the stator and to the ignition switch. The brown wires only become live when the ignition is switched on. If you have 12 volts at the reg rec output with ignition off then the two left hand fuses will be live. It would indicate a duff reg rec.
I have just ventured out into the garage and confirmed the above.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
Thanks for the reply Mickey, but I am confused because Morini Tom says there should be 12 volts on the stator yellow leads with the bike not running.
To recap:- The bike is wired according to Rupert Paul's excellent coloured diagram "Mark's Morini" of 2016 and, as you say, the stator is connected straight to the battery and ignition switch and regulator output connected to the brown wires (ignition light and running lights). The bike runs well but was not charging the battery as, it turned out, the old regulator was all open circuit. With a new, double checked, regulator fitted the brown wires became permanently live as the regulator was just passing on 12 volts straight from the stator.
So, Tom says 12 volts on yellow is correct, Mickey says not.
What do people think of my idea in the last paragraph of my post of 7th October? I can arrange for the stator to be connected to the battery only after the key is switched ON and then take the regulator output straight to the battery +ve terminal. With the bike running this should charge the battery if the stator is working. Is this correct?
I don't know who is right, but my regulator IS working. Confused!
To recap:- The bike is wired according to Rupert Paul's excellent coloured diagram "Mark's Morini" of 2016 and, as you say, the stator is connected straight to the battery and ignition switch and regulator output connected to the brown wires (ignition light and running lights). The bike runs well but was not charging the battery as, it turned out, the old regulator was all open circuit. With a new, double checked, regulator fitted the brown wires became permanently live as the regulator was just passing on 12 volts straight from the stator.
So, Tom says 12 volts on yellow is correct, Mickey says not.
What do people think of my idea in the last paragraph of my post of 7th October? I can arrange for the stator to be connected to the battery only after the key is switched ON and then take the regulator output straight to the battery +ve terminal. With the bike running this should charge the battery if the stator is working. Is this correct?
I don't know who is right, but my regulator IS working. Confused!
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MickeyMoto
- Posts: 2711
- Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
- Location: Even further oop North
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
No, it is all clear.
12 volts permanently on the yellow wires (the input to the reg rec from the stator).
0 volts on the output where the brown wire connects with engine off.
The brown wire connects to the switched live when you turn the key in the ignition to on. If you have 12 volts on the output (remove the brown wire) then the reg rec is passing the voltage through to the bike and parts of it will be live when they should not be when the ignition is off.
You have 4 wires - red to the alternator from the battery
2 x yellow from the alternator
brown from the reg rec.
of course, the reg rec should be earthed.
12 volts permanently on the yellow wires (the input to the reg rec from the stator).
0 volts on the output where the brown wire connects with engine off.
The brown wire connects to the switched live when you turn the key in the ignition to on. If you have 12 volts on the output (remove the brown wire) then the reg rec is passing the voltage through to the bike and parts of it will be live when they should not be when the ignition is off.
You have 4 wires - red to the alternator from the battery
2 x yellow from the alternator
brown from the reg rec.
of course, the reg rec should be earthed.
Re: Faulty Stator perhaps?
As Mr Moto says, the Brown is 12V flowing INTO the regulator rectifier FROM the battery. As a reference point to measure the state of charge and allow the reg. rect. to regulate the AC power from the stator (2x yellow wires and 1x red) correctly.