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Hello all,

Does anyone have the following combination working on their Kanguro X / X1 (with of course the 12v conversion):

Sachse ignition unit (ZDG 3.23 / Morini 350) with Dynatek miniature (3.0 ohm) coils ?

The Kanguro X1 is a project bike I bought a few years ago and has been 'resting' until recently.
I am having trouble getting the engine to run with the above combination fitted. Despite setting up as per the instructions and seeing a very healthy spark at t.d.c. / PMS2, the nearest the engine gets to running is an occasional backfire. All voltage read OK and earths are good. I've retrofitted the old system and had the engine running without too much trouble. I've also borrowed a pair of Lucas ht coils and had the engine running with the Sachse, though had to advance the ignition by about 10 deg.

A friend gave me the two Dynatek coils. He had some doubt about one of them, suggesting there may be a problem. I would prefer to keep with these coil types if possible as I've managed to incorporate them within the limited space available under the tank. My thought is that the coils given to me may indeed have a problem. However, I would like to hear from someone who has them fitted and running with sachse + 12v Kanguro X/X1, just so I don't go on a wild goose chase, before spending a lot of money for new ones.

(Just to add... note that both Electronik Sachsce and Mdina list the Dynatek mini coils. They do however suggest the PVL coils for the ignition system).

Thanks again for any help forthcoming.

Chris I.

I'm sorry but I have no experience of the system you've got. It must make it harder to cope with if a lot of other makes are mixed with it though? Also I might be missing something again with the kit you have, but why time it on PMS2? Normally you set these engines up on the front cylinder and at the earlier ANT1 mark for full advance, not at PMS (TDC).

Hi Steve,

Thanks for responding. Yes, the mix of the ignition system with theses specific coils could well be a rarity, hence the call out to others here who may have had success with both.

As for using the PMS2 timing mark, this is used in the initial set up in conjunction with pick up plate on-board LEDs. Turning the engine over by hand to set the rear cylinder timing is the first stage. Afterwards, the front cylinder timing can then be checked and adjusted independently. In practice it's quite a different set up to the original system, but it is very straight forward. Making timing adjustments mentioned is simply rotating the magnet disk until the pick up plate LEDS turn off, at which point the spark fires.

Quoting from the instructions... '0 – 400 rpm Starting range, ignition always at TDC to prevent engine kickback and ease starting' This is the PMS1 / PMS2 setting. Above 400 rpm the advance starts to come in, which will take it progressively towards the ANT mark, soon above 5000 rpm, (30 - 40 degrees fully advanced, depending on what curve profile has been chosen).

As you suggest the mix of different combinations may complicate things. The frustration is that turning the engine over by hand, at tdc front and rear, there's nice juicy sparks on both front and rear cylinders spark plugs. It just doesn't want to play ball when it comes to kick starting it .

Thanks for the insight to the new stuff. It's probably covered already but the only thought that comes to me now is are you timing on the compression stroke? I know, it's obvious but...

Good suggestion, however, the camshaft magnetic disk has two sets of magnets, set 180 deg. apart, which means what wasz on the standard system, the old '180 deg. out' problem now doesn't exist.

From the installation notes....'The ignition uses the so called wasted spark principle'. Every crankshaft
rotation a spark is generated. This is indeed a deliberate design decision and cannot be
changed'.