250C2
Re: 250C2
If it's a 'home-brew' the exhaust system looks pretty good. I think the bars are original - though in an upright position. The foot controls appear to have been cut in half and re-welded to be shorter ( ), the plastic instrument console has split (don't they all) and the fuel tank appears to leak along one seam , which is OK as I can't remove the cap to put more in (yet)!
Re: 250C2
1st job - change the cam belt. 1st problem - the flywheel nut had been tightened with a hammer and chisel, but with a bit of filing I got a socket on and it wasn't very tight.
2nd problem - one of the hammer blows had deformed the lip of the flywheel so I couldn't get the puller in, luckily the flywheel came off with a few taps from a rubber mallet, then some judicious scraping and use of needle files allowed the puller to screw in (for the next time).
3rd problem - the woodruff key had sheared! I now need to source one, but not entirely sure what height I need?
Cambelt changed OK - on to the next problem(s)...
2nd problem - one of the hammer blows had deformed the lip of the flywheel so I couldn't get the puller in, luckily the flywheel came off with a few taps from a rubber mallet, then some judicious scraping and use of needle files allowed the puller to screw in (for the next time).
3rd problem - the woodruff key had sheared! I now need to source one, but not entirely sure what height I need?
Cambelt changed OK - on to the next problem(s)...
Re: 250C2
Some progress, or should that be regression?
Took the silencer off, it looked to be in good condition from the chrome but when I turned it over it was rusted through at the back, then the baffles fell out in dozens of bits from the inlet! The 2 into 1 exhaust is definitely home brewed, the front pipe is in pretty good nick but has been bent upwards by a lump hammer, it has a short spigot before joining the chromed outer sleeve. The rear looks genuine, with a longer spigot to sleeve dimension and 'proper' looking curves under the bike to the integral Y piece.
However, the front pot has a larger than standard exhaust nut, though not as big as a 500! Looks to be turned from mild steel, with circumferential holes for a peg spanner, rather than tessellations. It had 2 large copper washers instead of an exhaust gasket.
Front master cyl and caliper drained and cleaned OK. Forks drained (of a couple of tablespoons of molybdenum grease from the look of it!) so I'll strip and clean them.
The tank key should be coming soon, so I can then see how bad the inside is, start cleaning and decide on the best sealant - Slosh, anyone?
The rest looks OK, maybe a new chain and sprockets, definitely a new rear brake cable. Tyres are nearly new ME22s, seat has a few minor tears and a couple of indicators are damaged.
Took the silencer off, it looked to be in good condition from the chrome but when I turned it over it was rusted through at the back, then the baffles fell out in dozens of bits from the inlet! The 2 into 1 exhaust is definitely home brewed, the front pipe is in pretty good nick but has been bent upwards by a lump hammer, it has a short spigot before joining the chromed outer sleeve. The rear looks genuine, with a longer spigot to sleeve dimension and 'proper' looking curves under the bike to the integral Y piece.
However, the front pot has a larger than standard exhaust nut, though not as big as a 500! Looks to be turned from mild steel, with circumferential holes for a peg spanner, rather than tessellations. It had 2 large copper washers instead of an exhaust gasket.
Front master cyl and caliper drained and cleaned OK. Forks drained (of a couple of tablespoons of molybdenum grease from the look of it!) so I'll strip and clean them.
The tank key should be coming soon, so I can then see how bad the inside is, start cleaning and decide on the best sealant - Slosh, anyone?
The rest looks OK, maybe a new chain and sprockets, definitely a new rear brake cable. Tyres are nearly new ME22s, seat has a few minor tears and a couple of indicators are damaged.
Re: 250C2
Well, for all the ugly bits, mismatched transducers and mystery object, after cleaning the carbs, adding petrol via a lawnmower fuel tank and giving a few kicks - it runs!
Didn't run for long as 1) I had only the open pipe. 2) Tick over was around 4000rpm and I didn't want to do any damage.
Very encouraging though.
Didn't run for long as 1) I had only the open pipe. 2) Tick over was around 4000rpm and I didn't want to do any damage.
Very encouraging though.
Re: 250C2
Slow at the moment - it is only just above zero in the barn at this time of year. Having said that, I think (hope) all the major problems have been addressed (other than the severely perforated fuel tank) and the bike starts easily enough - even with the 'mystery object' and 2 different transducers - though I need to re-set the carbs after a thorough clean. I'm also working on the carb of my DR350 just now, don't think it's been opened in 20 years and was full of mud.