MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com

Hi, on the 500 Camel when the tool tray is removed and regulator is relocated there is quite a large space available for a battery if mounted higher in the frame.
If the problem is mainly finding the best/largest battery for space available/starter needs and the generally available 12 V batteries are the wrong dimensions, you may be able to use two 12V batteries in parallel or two 6V batteries in series; Triumph and Norton used these solutions for their police bikes and rotaries.

For a while I had a late 501 Camel which was as new and it the same symptoms as Steve describes with starting, the starter motor and clutch were like new; I replaced the clutch shoes as they were a little chewed up towards one end. There was also no difference to the starting when I fitted a new battery (lead acid) and I came to the conclusion that the battery capacity was really too small for the application.

'It must be a .....' wrote:... you may be able to use two 12V batteries in parallel or two 6V batteries in series; Triumph and Norton used these solutions for their police bikes and rotaries.

That's good lateral thinking - though I'm not sure how you would calculate the CCA rating, I don't think they would add together and a smaller battery usually has a lower CCA than a bigger one. You could also gain some space by using something like a Boyer Power Box in place of the Ducatielettronica regulator. They take up a lot less space and if necessary you can run without a battery (obviously kick start only).

So I thought I could get a cam belt locally but they have run out. It was a brand I have not heard of as well, so am keen to get a Mitsuboshi or equivalent. I looked at Mdina but they dont seem to have any ??
Can anyone provide a source ?
Cheers.

Google the belt reference. I get mine mail order from RS Components here. Bearing stockists will probably have them. I pay a fiver for Continental.

Try rsaustralia.com in Sydney, the Australian branch of RS Components.
Regards,
Fiona '86 Morini 350

I ended up getting one from Statewide Bearings near me. It's a Gates belt. I hope it fits ok. $12. Bargain. If its too lose or too tight I might try to get the Mitsuboshi. But I can only find that one from Japan.

So I got my rear shocks back from suspension guy and a week later, one of them is leaking oil. Had not even ridden it yet. So its back to the shop to sus it out. Got to ride it around for 20 minutes first to make sure the other one doesn't leak.
Throttle response has improved by fitting new cables. Smoother application now.

Oil leaks fixed.

I really need the front forks better. I am tempted to get the emulator kit from Soren. http://www.morinist.dk/morini/dele.php and new seals.

It`s getting better

Rear shock fixed. Seems when he installed the main seal, it didn't fit right. Happy now.
Highlights how bad the front is now.

rossguzzi wrote:Rear shock fixed. Seems when he installed the main seal, it didn't fit right. Happy now.
Highlights how bad the front is now.

Hi Ross, will be interested to know if you can improve the front forks any. Now my rear shocks are good I too notice the forks more. I had the stanchions reground and chromed and I wondered if they are close on the tolerance maybe, as they do feel like new, tight forks. I'm about to try some 2.5W fork oil and see what that does. It would be nice to know what the air gap was meant to be so I can play around with that a little too.

I don't know if this applies to the Camel 500, but on the 501 Camel II , the air is bled with the front wheels off the ground ( full fork extension)

Yes the same form tops with the ball valves fitted. If I understand it right though, this allows air out on full compression then closes as the fork rebounds. So creating a vacuum. I've not seen anything about bleeding them?

I'm not sure about that. My forks seem to harden up after time and hard use, so once in a while I jack the front up and release any trapped air , very little escapes but it's enough to make a difference.

Hmm, confused now! Your experience seems opposite to what I thought would be happening! I'm planning to change the fork oil this week so will have another look at the valves and see if I'm missing something.

I am going to replace the ATF (auto trans fluid) with 10 weight soon and new seals. I am sure I will still get the emulators, but want to try this first.
I think this time I will measure the air gap from the top instead of cc of oil.

Ross, mine has 10w oil in there now. I feel it could use a lower viscosity rating.