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What a relief, you must be delighted.
John

A good reason why a £5 belt and an annual change is a good thing! There is a spring behind the flywheel and a spring washer under the nut so the rotor nut should not come loose. No need to strain the nut.

MickeyMoto wrote:There is a spring behind the flywheel and a spring washer under the nut so the rotor nut should not come loose.

And yet flywheels coming loose is a more common problem than them being stuck.

The tapers need to be free of burrs, as do the key and keyway. The tapers should also be free from any oil or grease.

You don't 'need' the key by the way. It only sets the alignment of the timing marks.

Note: Should - does not mean will not come off. But if assembled correctly and torqued correctly and checked regularly then this should not occur. Routine maintenance is a much over looked pastime!

Good evening and "Thank you" to you all for your comments.
So, having removed the wee blighter, I won't be watching the nut stop moving with the air gun on a low torque setting. This is all well and good but the variables are many!
Having just wrestled with it, I don't wish to repeat the nut saga. So, 47ft/lbs, as per the 'blue book', with no burrs and a spotless taper, will be the order of the day. Maybe just wee breath on the taper before assembly!
My regards, BillR

Yeah, well, I've done a fair few belts over the years.

This is just a fraction of them; https://scontent.fltn1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/ ... e=5F46B4CA

Thanks for the good news. I've found the Sealey puller set that seems to be the one that worked for you, it's a 10 piece set called VS1822. The individual pullers are listed as spares under the spare parts button near the bottom of their web page https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/563720 ... r-set-10pc (at least until the web page is updated...) - I couldn't find anywhere to buy the individual puller so have ordered the full 10 piece set. I've had enough reluctant rotors to value having a good quality tool to remove them

Another wee update. Having marked up the stator plate, I then tried to remove the three cheese head screws as per Paul's video. Yes, you guessed, the heads were chewed and copious amounts of a white thread locking fluid applied, so that even the stator was stuck to the pillars upon which it sits and three different spring washers under the heads of the screws, two of which were no longer sprung! Cleaned up the rotor and inside the crankcase with brake cleaner, cautiously cleaned the stator and then put a tap down each stator pillar hole and flushed it out with brake cleaner and the airline.

The crank taper and key had light corrosion on them and the springs, circlip and guide washer were all covered in rubber/road dust and corrosion. Brake cleaner, a brass wire brush and an old typewriter letter key cleaning brush sorted them out. Would a wipe with a rag, with ACF50 help prevent corrosion on the springs and circlip? I mean a lightly oiled rag, not a wet oily rag! No lubricant or adhesive will applied to the tapers or the key.

The old belt was getting stiff and had 6mm of deflection on it and proved obstinate to get off, half a wooden clothes peg helped prise it off. The pulleys were then given a good clean with more brake cleaner and cotton buds (paper shaft!) and the amount of old rubber stuck in the valleys had to be seen, a small surgical scalpel got rid of the sticky bits. After a final burnish with a coarse jute cloth and brake cleaner and blow dry with the airline the new belt slid on beautifully, with less than 2mm deflection.

I will be using the cheesehead screws after cleaning their heads up and new spring washers to secure the stator and hopefully the re-assembly should go smoothly.

Again, my thanks to Paul for the video on how to do the job and I like his image of knackered knicker elastic earlier in this thread. However, I would be cautious about pricing the replacement of a Moto Morini timing belt for anything under an hours labour after my experience!

Good health, BillR

If you are not feeling 'flush' to buy a complete set of Sykes Pickavant motorcycle flywheel pullers ~£60-00, may I suggest the following puller from Feked?

Link: M27-x-1.25mm-right-hand-thread-puller

I was a bit suspicious about the price, but having received quality items from the company before thought it worth purchasing. The puller came in 'Venhill' packaging and appears to have been made by them. Venhill do not appear to list this puller on their website, at this time. I wonder if it has been a slow seller and that Feked have bought up the Venhill stocks? The steel appears to be good and the pin is threaded with a Metric Fine thread, rather than the Metric Coarse thread of the MCA puller I initially used. The fit of the thread in the rotor appears to be snug and yet easy to tighten. whilst the central pin appears to be well made and a good fit as well.

My regards, BillR