350 Clutch

[SoloFrenos]

Hola, I was reading an article somewhere recently (in a magazine but cannot remember which one) and it mentioned that the manual is wrong when it come to the position of the dished clutch plate. I've always put mine in as the last one as per the manual. So can anyone (Paul??) tell me where this plate should go and which way round?

Also on clutches, Rob has sent me all different thickness clutch shims but i'll be honest i don't know what i'm looking for to select the correct one? do i just try one side and wiggle it? If so how much 'wiggle' am i looking for ) ? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Just starting my 375 rebuild so would be good to get the clutch right from the start. Thanks, Tony

[SoloFrenos]

Nobody? Oh well i guess i'll rebuild it as i have in the past with the dished plate as per the manual.

I guess the shims take out any 'play' once the nut is tightened, so i'll just try them till i get no play.

Cheers, Tony

[Ralph]

I fitted mine as the first plate in, when I striped it
it was in the middle of the pack but I was told it's
function was to help separate the plates anyway
it seems to work better now but with a slightly
harder biting point.


You may have this but if not you may find info in it.

http://www.rpw.it/Files/Morini_125-250-350-500_MO.pdf

[hendre]

on page 10 the setup according to surflex: http://www.surflexclutches.com/Surflexc ... ane%29.pdf

[SoloFrenos]

Thanks Ralph and Hendre, so it looks like i've been putting the diched plate in the wrong place all those years after all. Right final cleaning of the clutch basket and then it can all go back together.

Many thanks, Tony

[EVguru]

The 'Blue Book' has the dished plate as the last steel plate in. The late Cagiva era engine manual has a revised assembly, with it as the first.

That's how I've always done it. It means the whole clutch pack gets moved sideways lightly so wear on the splines and dogs is spread out and it encourages the plates to separate.

[mad muller]

had a look at sureflex images , couldn't see a dished plate or iam not looking right, surley a friction plate must go in the basket first, then a steel plate , and which way does the dish point, or do I have to attend Italian night classes , totally perplexed have mine as the manual, It would be good to know what nlm do on there clutch set up , just off to make a dished plate with a lump hammer and a tennis ball. still mad muller.

[Ralph]

If you look at the part numbers for the plates only one steel plate as a different part number I take it that is the spring one
not sure which way I fitted the dishing though, yes a friction then the dished one as the first steel plate and if yours as
a thinner friction plate that goes in last.

[sheddweller]

This seems to be one of those posts that hasn't been resolved. Which hasn't worried me until I need clarification. Selfish I know, but it looks to me as if the first Friction Plate to go in the basket is the thin (2.5mm) one, followed by the dished Steel plate with the dished (protruding) side facing towards the springs. Have I got this right???

[EVguru]

If you have a thin friction plate (I've seen clutches fitted with all thick plates - Kanguro?), then that goes in first.

I then put it the conical steel plate. This seemed most logical to me for a better clutch action and this is vindicated by the revised assembly order in the Cagiva era engine manual.

I'm not certain it makes much difference which way the conical plate goes in, but I always fit it convex side out.

[sheddweller]

Thanks for that clarification. I only have the 'Blue' book. Does the Cagiva manual cover the earlier bikes? and would you recommend it over the blue manual?